I use Redline oil for my motor 10W-40 and also I use redline synthetic for the tranny.<br>I change my oil every 5,000 miles or every six months on the motor, which ever comes first and every 20,000 for my tranny.<p>Ralph.
Definitely use fully synthetic oil for 850s, especially the hotter ones.<p>The hydraulic tappets almost demand top-quality lubricants and its a cheap preventative for more expensive mechanical problems, especially if the car is driven in arduous conditions, including short hop stop-start driving.<p>I'd change the oil as the service interval, though some of the really anal fanatics in our club change it more frequently.<p>There is no necessity to get branded oil though, own-brand fully synthetic is a perfectly acceptable alternative.
Definately synthetic - change around 6-7k and I use Amsoil. For transmission I just use the volvo recommended fluids - even the volvo specialty shops will not put in synthetic transmission fluid for 'liability reasons'. Still haven't figured that one out yet...
You have a turbocharged engine so if you can afford it definitely use synthetic oil.<p>I used to use, religiously, 10W-30 Mobi1 but ever since they changed to that crappy new formula (not a true synthetic oil any more), I switched to AMSOIL. Now, I use 10W-40 mainly because of the ECU upgrade.<p><br>Yannis
Synthetic all the way. Mobil 1 just changed to a "new" formula. Its not as good as it was, so I changed over to Amsoil 10-30. I have a "hot" C70 and drive it a little hard once and awhile especially when I am teaching a Beemer not to mess with me.
George,<p>you should definitely change to a 40-weight oil or even a 50-weight oil (depending you hard you push the car). 10W-30 may not be enough. According to iPd, they recommend 5W-40, 5W-50, 10W-40, 15W-40, 15W-50 or even 20W-50 for ECU-upgraded Volvos.<p>Yannis
I've read that you use 10W-30 Amsoil and 0W-30 Amsoil. I'm getting ready to switch from dino 5W-30 to 0W-30 Amsoil Series 2000 this weekend. Since we live in the same region (I'm in Long Beach), I wanted to find out if you're really using the 0W-30 Series 2000. If you are, how do you think it does? Is the "0W" getting carried away since we're in this lovely climate some call heaven (i.e. currently sunny, 68 degrees F)?<p><br>It's not whether you win or lose...it's how you place the blame.<p>Chronic<br>2001 V70 T5 manual<br>K&N air filter<br>fingers crossed<p>
for this engine (turbo one) - if you are running it warm definately use a 5W-40 0W-40 or a lighter 10W-40. SYNTHETIC. A thicker 10W-30 or 5W-30 like the AMsoil series 3000 would be fine too.<p>It just gets really hot - but for the winter - a 0W-30 will reduce your wear considerably and give you more usable HP and easier starts (yes even over a 10W-30 or 0W-40 or 5W-40). AND ESP if the car is just a short trip vehicle.<p>6 month changes of the oil with the synthetic is pretty close to optimal esp with synthetics. (too long some might say - nah not really - not if it is a good synthetic). Winter 6 run a synthetic 0W-30 Summer 6 run a 10W-40 or 5W-40 - or if you really push it hard a 15W-40. 20W-50 would be if you race it hard or really punish the engine and get the temps WAY up there, you'll loose too much mileage and HP if the 20W-50 doesn't stay really hot.<p>I'm trying to restrain myself on this topic, just so yall know.
I'm using that new Mobil1 0w-30 and let me tell you it sucks!!! I switched to 0w-30 a while back to keep the car from making this moaning sound on cold weather starts. Well now it's back, never happened with the old Mobil1 0w-30. And to boot I get the tapping lifter sound on a cold start as well. That went away when I switched to Mobil1 10w-30 YEARS ago. Well time to start looking for a new oil. Any suggestions for a new fully synthetic oil for my car? Also, why the 0w-40 or 5w-40? I thought 30 weight was best for our cars. This new information about 40 weight is news to me. What would be best for me? I mostly do short drives (8 mile commute to work), with a few long drives, maybe once a month. <p>Thanks<p>Scott
sorry I should have mentioned - AVOID the mobil 1 0W-30, there is thin and then there is TOOOOO thin.<p>The new Mobil 1 super syn stuff isn't too bad but the formulation isn't as good as Redline or Amsoil or a few others out there.<p>
Why do you say to avoid it (I'm already avoiding the new formula, but the old)? The old formulation seemed very good I used it for over 3 years or so with no problems. It's the new formulation that I think is the problem. And why is 0w-30 too thin? I thought the first number is the flow properties at startup, meaning a 0w will flow better at startup then say a 10w. And at operating temperatures a 0w-30 and a 10w-30 would behave the same. Let me know what you think.<p>Scott<br><BR><BR>
[Modified by stkelly, 9:16 AM 1-16-2003]
take a look at the published viscosity specifications - the 0W-30 M1 is barely a 30 the 10W-30 is quite a bit thicker.<p>just cause two oils have the same first or last number doesn't mean they will be the same.<p>ie 0W-40 WILL be thinner than nearly all 15W-40 oils (unless someone is doing something really weird). Has to do with the basestocks and the viscosity of the oil used in the base stock prior to formulating.<p>I use a 0W-30 that is just a bit thicker than the mobil 1 so I guess I'm not really too concerned that the 0W-30 is too thin. AND in light of some of these new 0W-20 oils on the market that have proven to be able to take the heat of high performance engines - viscosity is less of an issue to think about. <br>Us the oil with the lowest number infront and the lowest one in back that you can tolerate. As long as it is a synthetic (PAO/Ester) you'll be fine unless you torture your car. With the thinner oils you'll see much less wear at startup and the overall rates will be comparable if the oil doesn't get hot enough that it thins out and you are left in a boundary lubrication situation for too long.
Thanks for the info. Next oil change I'll try either 0w-40 or 5w-40. I live in MD, so the winters are not that bad, so maybe 5w-40 would be the best choice. Does this sound reasonable? I'll probably use Amsoil. Thanks again.<p>Scott
Who makes a good synthetic 5w-40? I know this weight is hard to find but anyone know of a good brand and where to buy it from? I don't mind buying it online and for a little extra money.<p>Thanks,<p>RJ
I know that Kendall does make a 5W-40 full synthetic. Don't know of the price, but here is some info on the oil. <A HREF="http://www.kendallmotoroil.com/productlineup/pas/k_gt-1_syn.pdf" TARGET="_blank">http://www.kendallmotoroil.com/productlineup/pas/k_gt-1_syn.pdf</a>
Thanks Henry. I have also found that Lubro-Moly makes one as well. <A HREF="http://www.germanautoparts.com" TARGET="_blank">German Auto Parts</A> in NY sells it. I might go for that one over Kendall. <p>RJ
Delo 400 15w-40<p>It's a "dino" oil, but unless your into extended drain intervals, it will most definitely do the job. <p>$6/gallon <p>...Used in all my rides (diesel and gas vehicles, as well as the motorcycle).<p>...Gonna put it in my better half's '96 850 here soon(!)<p>Justin.<p><br>[Modified by jlells01, 3:26 AM 3-12-2003]<BR><BR>
[Modified by jlells01, 3:57 AM 3-12-2003]