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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my car is at the shop today and the mechanic tells me that my rear sway bar bushings are bad. Then I'm told that Volvo doesn't sell just the bushings. They only sell the the entire bar with bushings installed.

Back in my BMW days, I could buy just the bushings.

Is there a source for bushing for the stock sway bar?

Thanks.
 

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I am looking at this, too. The rear sway bar bushings on an XC were replaced - sway bar in place and the process described in a couple of threads. Much easier than removing and replacing the whole rear sway bar which requires dropping the exhaust and disconnecting the parking brakes. However, I just heard that my fronts need to be done as well as the rears. I think I will tackle the rears, but there is so much in the fronts, I might leave that to my mechanic.

I have not checked the size of the hole in the bushing, but suspect 14 mm. I will measure mine at some point. The bushings can be obtained on Amazon. Some filing down of the new bushing appears to be needed as the bracket on the Volvo is a little different. Also the sway bar would need to have the remains of the old bushings removed if there is any left in place. Here are the links I found:

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/the-trick-to-replace-your-p2-volvo-sway-bar-bushings-v70-xc70-s60-s80
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?20839-Replace-Rear-Sway-Bar-Bushings/page2&
http://www.energysuspension.com/universal-products/sway-bar-bushings.html
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=47658
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I suppose that my next question is "why would they do this?" This is the first time that I've had a car where I couldn't replace just the bushings.

I hate to say it but I've reached an age and physical condition where I no longer want to crawl around under cars anymore. It's not fun. I'll do stuff up top. Brakes, plugs, and that sort of stuff but no more under the car on my back.

I guess that I'll bite the bullet and pay my guy to swap out the entire bar.

Why, Volvo, why?
 

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I suppose that my next question is "why would they do this?" This is the first time that I've had a car where I couldn't replace just the bushings.

I hate to say it but I've reached an age and physical condition where I no longer want to crawl around under cars anymore. It's not fun. I'll do stuff up top. Brakes, plugs, and that sort of stuff but no more under the car on my back.

I guess that I'll bite the bullet and pay my guy to swap out the entire bar.

Why, Volvo, why?
I agree, I was researching the same thing with my XC70 and after some extensive internet searching I found an aftermarket supplier and "how to" thread on replacing just the bushings. A repair garage is not going to want to go through that hassle of sourcing the correct the bushings, they will just replace the bar.
 

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Basically by molding the bushings on to the bar it prevents noise and simplifies assembly. Better for new car owners and manufacturer, worse for 2nd and 3rd+ owner.

I had a 960 that used to get water in the stock sway bar bushings and as it dried it would make the most horrible creaking noises over speed bumps, was super embarassing. Happened every time it rained until I greased them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Basically by molding the bushings on to the bar it prevents noise and simplifies assembly. Better for new car owners and manufacturer, worse for 2nd and 3rd+ owner.
Seems like it would complicate the manufacturing of the bar and make that process more expensive as well.

Accords are beginning to look much more attractive.
 

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It's not an easy choice, there are aftermarket poly bushings but these are tricky, perhaps Polyflex ones are worth but expensive and need lubricated.

Plus I think it's not a quick job. Are you sure yours are really shot? Rear ones don't fail that often, could it be the mechanic is a little too picky?

Any noises? Noises rather come from the end links which indeed are prone to fail - buy only Lemforder brand from Fcpeuro.com or Ipdusa.com
 

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The process for the replacement of either the front or the rear sway bar looks challenging to me!

My independent mechanic quoted 425 for replacement of the front sway bars and 350 for the rears, hence my interest in at least tackling the rears at about $20 for the bushings.

But I am leaving it for now, as there is snow on the ground, and I do not have any banging from the bars hitting anything yet (apparently more a risk for the fronts).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Any noises? Noises rather come from the end links which indeed are prone to fail - buy only Lemforder brand from Fcpeuro.com or Ipdusa.com
Lots of noise on rough pavement. My car was in for state inspection and I asked him to look for the noise. He said that it was the bushings but didn't realize that the entire bar had to be replaced until his parts lady started looking into things.
 

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I got nailed with this for my purchase safety last year and did the whole dumb rear bar. Mine is FWD so was able to take the bar out without removing any other items. It did require coaxing and some cursing and a few re-tries (plus rotating one of the bushings 90deg as I recall) but after an hour of what felt like a game of twister with my rear suspension I finally got it in.


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Try first sliding a hand under the car and grab each endlink and try moving it with force: if the joints where is attached are worn you will feel a play to them.

Maybe also take a picture of the bushings of the sway bar, we may be able to tell if they are shot or not. Again, quite rare, the endlinks are much more prone to fail and will make knocking noise on rough pavement (and are much cheaper to replace). I just have a slight doubt the mechanic really paid attention when testing these, because if he is moving the sway bar, worn endlinks will make noise.
 
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