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sway bars

3K views 29 replies 8 participants last post by  tayk47 
#1 ·
does anyone other than ipd offer sway bars for our amazing cars? any of you guys have sway bars? will focus/mazda3 sway bars fit since certain other suspesion components are the same?
 
#2 ·
Re: sway bars (tayk47)

I have not looked through who sells what, so I cannot help you for what parts will fit. What I can say is that the 22 mm IPD rear sway bar was easy to install, relatively cheap (about 150 $ US), and VERY effective. I got my dad to change the rear sway bar on his Acura TSX (Comptech is the brand) and he also says it makes a huge difference for the better.
 
#6 ·
I have the IPD rear bar on my car. It only looked 1-2mm bigger than the stock bar. I have not noticed any difference in the handling. The Traction Control kicks in before I get to the limit where the bar will help. If you really want to improve the handling, buy performance tires. The tires that came on my car are awful.
 
#7 ·
Re: (mball)

I think the rear was 15 mm stock, IPD 22 mm or somesuch.
I definitely cannot speak for mball's experience. Only mine.

The change in the bar was pretty noticeable for me, and immediately. Here were the changes. All this with the stock tires (which I changed later).

- Ability in a U-turn to swipe the rear tires (stock Michelins). Not saying this is a good idea. But it's indicative.
- Car not sloshing around as much in fast twitch turns.
- Car turning easier in general, especially noticeable as I accelerate from 30 to 70 MPH on a long curve onto a freeway. That's the classic FWD-limited situation, where the front tires can't turn and push against the road because the front tires are total-force-capability-limited. The rear sway bar will a) flatted the car a bit, but more importantly b) LESSEN the traction in the rear, making FWD turn-around easier. It's a known phenomenon: stiffer rear sway bar to neutralize FWD understeer.
- More tightness (and therefore roughness) even going straight, probably the roads here are never smooth. You're not supposed to feel anything in straights, but I do. It's like there is a tightness in the rear that becomes a tightness in my butt. It's hard to describe.
- Now that I'm more sensitive to this stuff, I can feel the car's geometries changing as I turn, even just around town. The rear sway bar shifts the car weight more towards the outer rear tire. I can actually feel this. The inner rear tire does not lift off the road, of course, but it feels like it "comes up" a bit, as if there is less weight on it.
- All in all, it's pretty cool. I wish I did this on my old Golf years ago.

I convinced my dad to change the sway bar on his TSX. He had already been completely enamored of that finely tuned machine. But after changing the rear bar to a Comptech stiffer one, he realized what he was missing.

I'm not prone to overexaggeration:

I also added a front strut tower brace. I'll say that this change did almost nothing.
Also, I changed the air filter to the K&N. My "butt dyno" could not tell much difference.
 
#8 ·
Re: (bassman)

I have always upgraded my rear bar, I should add that true neutral handling can be dangerous for the novice. That said enjoy a rear bar but be careful especially in low traction situation. All swaybars work by loading the already loaded tire thus in general decreasing overall adhesion yes I said decreasing, all well and fun till a lift throttle low traction situation where the car has a tendency to swap ends. Basically if you think you are going to lose it in a turn don't step the brakes or you WILL lose it. Hence my warning for novices.
 
#11 ·
Re: (mball)

I'm with mball. I have the IPD rear sway bar and have not noticed much of a difference. ($150 on sale). If I was doing it again I would put that money towards a good set of struts. Koni offers a set for our car. I've already changed out the stock Michellins. Those tires were horrible.
 
#12 ·
Re: (bassman)

Thanks for that info! I'm glad I wasn't the only one. So if I understand correctly, the four blue bushings aren't need on an '05 car right? Just put it back on where the old one came off?

edit: ok I got it I just checked where you replied in my "HELP" topic, thanks again
 
#13 ·
Re: (tayk47)

I would also like to point out that the Heavy Duty Front End Links for the P2 cars (like V70, S60, XC90) will be a direct fit to our car and are 12mm thick with better ball joints. IPD has them $40 each. Just a nice upgrade if your going to do the rear...might as well make the front just as good
 
#15 ·
Re: (Tarheelvolvo)

Quote, originally posted by Tarheelvolvo »
the Heavy Duty Front End Links for the P2 cars (like V70, S60, XC90) will be a direct fit to our car
You sure about that? Tried it?

tayk47: they're heavier duty, and on the P2 the stock ones develop play over time. So as a replacement part they're superior, but if the original is still tight, not much different.

Tom.
 
#17 ·
Re: (tmtalpey)

I have not tried the install myself so "I" am not sure if they fit but Lucky at IPD put them on a project S40 they are working on and said it was a direct bolt-on. So I guess of you believe the R&D guys at IPD then yes...i am sure...otherwise, its up to you


I might undertake this endeavor in the near future, and when I do I will take pics and let you guys know.

Speaking of which....are we ever gonna get the DIY/Tech forum setup so we can post things like this, or intake install, spring, install, etc... and other's can follow our guidlines At Their Own Risk of course? It sure would be nice


Modified by Tarheelvolvo at 1:28 PM 8-11-2006
 
#18 ·
Re: (Tarheelvolvo)

Good to know. Thanks.

Tom.
 
#20 ·
Ok will do. I'll take some pictures for future reference and maybe so ipd can put up instructions for the new S40 to dispell all the confusion everyone seems to be having. Maybe if I take good pics ipd will throw some "good job, thanks for the help" money my way :crosses fingers: haha

as for performance afterwards Im sure I will enjoy the difference. It seems as tho the more experienced/technical people on the forum noticed a difference, and I assume I will too. I have an AutoX coming up and will definitely give a review afterwards.
 
#24 ·
Re: (tayk47)

Describe exactly what was frozen and what you had to torch?

On mine, the end links have a simple nut on the shaft that goes through the sway bar. Part #6:



It wasn't necessary to remove nut #7 or the link itself #2. Removing #6 (using the allen socket counterhold in the shaft) was easy. In any case, the link doesn't appear to be repairable, so I believe you'll need a new one.

Tom.
 
#25 ·
6 was frozen on both sides. I think it was frozen due to a combination of the nylon and it just being stuck somehow to the bar itself. I didnt remove 7 or 2. the stud is connected to a ball which fits into a socket at the bottom of part 2 and that popped out. does that make sense?
 
#26 ·
Re: (tayk47)

Wow. No clue why those were frozen. But I'm sure the ball joint failed due to the heat you had to apply. IIRC, the retainer on it is plastic. Maybe you can melt it back into shape, but I would consider that very risky. You don't want it popping out in a corner.

Tom.
 
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