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At 153000 the front sway bar support stays are really clunking and today was a good day to replace them. It's a fairly straightforward job (took me about an hour) but I took some pics and thought I'd submit a write-up about it.

Just to be sure, I sprayed some penetraing oil on the upper and lower nuts the night before. Struts were from autohausAZ about $16 for each



After jacking up the front and taking off the wheel, the struts are removed (originals on mine were 15 mm). The top nut is easily accessed by turning the hub assembly for the best positioning. The bottom nut is a bit harder to get at - you don't have to be a contortionist, but some knuckle bashing is easy to do.



As with tie-rod ends, the entire joint assembly wants to turn as you turn the nut, so you need to secure the rear flange to get the nut off. On my originals, the flange was round :mad: but the Crock saved the day.



The flange on the replacement struts could be secured by a skinny 16mm end wrench.



Once those are removed, the new ones go in easily.



I torqued mine to 40 ft/lbs - another real PITA for the lower nut since the torque meter faces towards the OTHER side of the car, there isn't much clearance, and even less viewing room. Clunks gone!

I didn't do them, but as long as your in there you may as well replace the sway bar bushings as well; everything is right out there; you don't even have to remove the belly pan to get to the two bolts.



I figured I'd had enough of engaging the shift lock over-ride every time I started her up, so I also got a replacement microswitch. Since there is a write-up with photos available

http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyinstructions/volvo_960_shift_lock_repair.htm

I won't go into great detail except to say this was a MAJOR PITA (interior stuff just is . . .) and that I didn't see the need on my car to remove the ashtray and the two torx screws behind the tray (I could just see those falling down into the black hole below). You will need to remove the shifter handle. I found it easiest to put shifter in the low position and pull and keep pulling. Keep your head out of the way or you WILL end up with a bloody nose!

Also, removing the shifter plate cover really takes some pulling and tugging at the rear of the cover to get the clips to snap loose. The instructions say be careful not to break it, and it slowly becomes obvious there may be no way NOT to break it. I just kept pulling gently at the rear of the cover, adding a bit more oompf and it finally snapped off. Touchy for a while there however. Also be careful removing the quick-nut retaining washer. If you break off the plastic mounting pin for the microswitch you will have to resort to quick-gluing the swith in. You do NOT want it falling off a month from now! My switch was definately bad - 180 ohms on the conductivity meter when the switch was activated. Smooth shift positioning now!

I also mentioned in a pevious post I replace the center support bearing for the drive shaft and was having continuous low-speed vibration. Since the angle at the carrier bearing between the two driveshaft halves is critical, I tried dropping the angle by putting a couple of washers in between the floor pan and the four corner bolts of the support tray securing the carrier bearing assembly. Just made things worse, so I removed those, and tried increasing the angle by putting the washers between the two bolt fastening the bearing assembly to the support tray. That seemed to reduce the vibration significantly, or I was just tired of the whole game and anything seemed to work.

Next on the list - replacing the cable on the drivers seat motor that moves the center console side of the seat. Tried packing it last year with lithium grease but I guess it's too far gone.
 

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...I'd had enough of engaging the shift lock over-ride every time I started her up, so I also got a replacement microswitch. Since there is a write-up with photos available

http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyinstructions/volvo_960_shift_lock_repair.htm

I won't go into great detail except to say this was a MAJOR PITA (interior stuff just is . . .) and that I didn't see the need on my car to remove the ashtray and the two torx screws behind the tray (I could just see those falling down into the black hole below). You will need to remove the shifter handle. I found it easiest to put shifter in the low position and pull and keep pulling. Keep your head out of the way or you WILL end up with a bloody nose!

Also, removing the shifter plate cover really takes some pulling and tugging at the rear of the cover to get the clips to snap loose. The instructions say be careful not to break it, and it slowly becomes obvious there may be no way NOT to break it. I just kept pulling gently at the rear of the cover, adding a bit more oompf and it finally snapped off. Touchy for a while there however. Also be careful removing the quick-nut retaining washer. If you break off the plastic mounting pin for the microswitch you will have to resort to quick-gluing the swith in. You do NOT want it falling off a month from now! My switch was definately bad - 180 ohms on the conductivity meter when the switch was activated. Smooth shift positioning now!

I also mentioned in a pevious post I replace the center support bearing for the drive shaft and was having continuous low-speed vibration. Since the angle at the carrier bearing between the two driveshaft halves is critical, I tried dropping the angle by putting a couple of washers in between the floor pan and the four corner bolts of the support tray securing the carrier bearing assembly. Just made things worse, so I removed those, and tried increasing the angle by putting the washers between the two bolt fastening the bearing assembly to the support tray. That seemed to reduce the vibration significantly, or I was just tired of the whole game and anything seemed to work.

Next on the list - replacing the cable on the drivers seat motor that moves the center console side of the seat. Tried packing it last year with lithium grease but I guess it's too far gone.
Thanks for sharing , Chuck - please keep these "How to..." coming as the 960 community depends on owner repair given the cost/availability of parts and service.

George Dill

http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyinstructions/automotive_tips_repair.htm
 
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