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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, just have a question about swapping original high performance speakers with Dynaudio.

I looked up some videos on how to remove the door trim and access the speakers but I did not actually try yet. If I were to purchase dynaudio speakers and a Premium amp., would everything be a simple plug and play? Ofcourse, I'm not worried about the center channel for now. Am I going to have to break anything to get the speakers loose or are there screws I can just remove?

Much appreciated, thanks guys!

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I have the HP system in my '09 2.4i and with the equalizer set to my liking, it's not bad. No experience with the Dynaudio system but from what I've read I'm not sure the speaker/amp swap is worth the potential headaches. If you have the USB AUX input connection (mine is in the center console) and feed the HP system some good files (such as Apple ALAC lossless) via an iPod or iPhone, it makes a HUGE difference. Audiophile-grade CDs sound good too. I would do that before any hardware changes and see if that suits your needs.

FWIW I'm adding an after-market sub-woofer to mine, leaving the rest of the HP system as-is.
 

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feed the HP system some good files (such as Apple ALAC lossless) via an iPod or iPhone, it makes a HUGE difference.
In an environment as noisy as a car, with speakers and their mounting and damping as compromised as Volvo OEM Dynaudio, it's extremely difficult to distinguish even 320kbps MP3 from 192kbps, and lossless (APE, FLAC, ALAC etc.) is more or less a waste. I haven't got a *real* high-end audio setup in any of my cars right now but with even a mid-level installation (Focal K2-series & Tangband drivers / JL XDv2 amps / Audio Control crossovers, boxed and dampened enclosures, full insulation & sound deadening job, meticulous equalization against a spectrum analyzer) the difference is barely audible, you really have to concentrate to find the subtle differences when the engine isn't running. And this in a car much quieter than a P1 Volvo can ever hope to be.

Just to put things in a perspective. With high-end headphones or home audio system the difference is a bit more meaningful.
 

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Starting with a high quality recording from a source such as Sheffield Lab, the difference on a good system is astounding. The lower noise, higher dynamic range and detail in the music is apparent even in a lesser system.

To your point though, most recordings found on normal CDs are not of high enough quality to discern much of a difference in a moving car, regardless of the hardware. My suggestion to the OP to pick some music on CD that sounds good on their home system and save it as ALAC files on their iPod/iPhone stands. Doesn't cost a cent to give it a try.

FWIW, I agree with the POV expressed here - https://9to5mac.com/2017/10/06/itunes-lossless-music-itunes-opinion/
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Hey guys, thanks for the replies. So, are you guys suggesting that I simply save the files as a certain file type and this should sound better? I can't use an IPod (I actually still have a classic with 100GB HDD) because my AUU is broken, however, I have a BluePower radio installed so it can run any format. Also, does this codec work for videos? Thanks!

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Give it a try, nothing to lose. If you have a home system, pick songs that sound the best on that system.

There is a large difference in the way music is originally recorded. When I listen to HD radio, some songs sound no different than a normal FM station, others are much better. Vetting the original files is key to selecting the ones that will benefit the most from saving to lossless format.
 

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Starting with a high quality recording from a source such as Sheffield Lab, the difference on a good system is astounding. The lower noise, higher dynamic range and detail in the music is apparent even in a lesser system.
Recording itself including mastering and (lack of) compression in terms of dynamic range is something else entirely. Personally I prefer Chesky/ECM/Fidelio/Elusive recordings for subjective assessments of audio systems, and for mobile audio I simply convert them to 320Mbit MP3. Either from APE/FLAC or ripping the source from (HD)CD if need be. Then again, I've been leaning towards a combo of REW and Behringer calibration mic+amp combo lately, especially when setting up mobile audio installations.

Coming from several decades of ridiculously geeky high-end audio background I may be a bit biased, but I've faced the fact that no matter what you do, car audio is always a compromise. I've scaled my home setup(s) down a bit, settled with a pair of Reference SC-1B:s (a step down from Grande Utopia at the day, I simply don't have room for them anymore) driven with a pair of Krell monoblocks and - ideally - using my old, beloved Michell GyroDec / SME tonearm / Dynavector cartridge -combo as a source (yeah, vinyl is always distorted, but in a strangely comforting way), with a sore realization that regardless of the effort, I can't even get close to the auditory experience in a car environment.

So, I've decided to consider the law of diminishing returns in that regard. The background noise of even a quiet car more than masks the shortcomings of even most 192Kbps MP3:s so the source isn't that critical. Then again, using lossless files isn't a big deal if you subjectively think otherwise. On the other hand, the DAC in smartphones, iPhone very much included, is utter manure in terms of sound quality. In home environment I'd use a proper external DAC, but in car it doesn't really matter that much, if at all.

Keeping everything relatively sensible seems to be the key. Focus in components and procedures that have the most pronounced effect in sound quality and you'll be fine. Effectively this means the drivers, installation and amp(s), providing that the head unit and EQ are decent enough.

Food for thought.
 

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hq_, I like your analysis and concur with it. I think that in terms of hi-fi sound systems, we've traveled similar paths and have arrived at similar conclusions.

At least with the HP system in my car, I don't feel overly compelled to make hardware changes with the assumption that the net result (the sound reaching my ears in a noisy environment) will be improved enough to justify the effort. The stock sound system in my Subaru was a different story: so horrible that it was a sure bet that the effort and cost to install a full aftermarket system would be worth it.

Perhaps it's largely psychoacoustical but I do perceive an improvement with certain tracks of music using lossless with the HP system. In combination with adding a modest subwoofer and perhaps some sound deadening in the doors, it will most likely provide adequate sound quality for my needs in a car.
 

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hq_, I like your analysis and concur with it. I think that in terms of hi-fi sound systems, we've traveled similar paths and have arrived at similar conclusions.

At least with the HP system in my car, I don't feel overly compelled to make hardware changes with the assumption that the net result (the sound reaching my ears in a noisy environment) will be improved enough to justify the effort. The stock sound system in my Subaru was a different story: so horrible that it was a sure bet that the effort and cost to install a full aftermarket system would be worth it.

Perhaps it's largely psychoacoustical but I do perceive an improvement with certain tracks of music using lossless with the HP system. In combination with adding a modest subwoofer and perhaps some sound deadening in the doors, it will most likely provide adequate sound quality for my needs in a car.
I'm not that familiar with the HP audio system, my (daughter's) V50 came with the baseline "performance" audio and I haven't had time to install and calibrate the Focal components yet - the front door inner linings are swiss cheese as usual and I be damned if I don't box, deaden and dampen them properly while I'm at it. The Dynaudio system I listened when I was test driving another P1 wasn't exactly bad, but far enough from good to justify at least a thorough equalization job if not a driver upgrade.
On the other hand, the autotune-dynamic-compression-horsesh*t my daughter calls "music" isn't really worth upgrading anything but the V50 is my regular loaner so there's a distinct selfish aspect to all this. :D

Providing that the frequency response of HP speakers doesn't have any local spikes (REW it and see how it looks?), I'd imagine your plan might well result in acceptable sound quality, combined with at least a basic parametric equalization. OTOH, a decent aftermarket 6½" component system doesn't break the bank THAT badly and if you're about to pop the door card and install sound deadening anyway, installation is a breeze while you're at it...
 

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VivaLaVIDA, what year is your car? I have actually done the swap in my 2005 V50 and it did make a big improvement, though you might do better with aftermarket speakers. I ask about the because it makes a difference for installing the factory DynAudio speaker system in the front doors. I learned the hard way. There is no issue for the rear doors. The tweeters and woofers are in the same location, no problem. If you have the post-FL (2008-20012) you will need the interior door panel for the fronts to accommodate the mid-range (has a nice little silver trim ring around the mid-range).

If you have the pre-FL (2004.5-2007), it gets more involved. Again there is no issue for the rear doors. The front will need the interior door panel as with the post-FL. However, that door panel sits deeper (has bigger door pockets) and will not fit unless you change the door cassettes (window regulator assembly) to the post-FL style. This was a bit of a PITA.
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Volvo v50 Volvo cars

I did not install the center speaker since I had the basic sound system and no hole in the dash. To power the speakers, I grabbed an amp from the junk yard 2008 S40 that had the DynAudio system. It was plug-n-play. Hoping to get the equalizer functions, I grabbed the ICM out of the 2008 but my car didn't like it. I grabbed another ICM out of a 2005 that had Premium sound and it sounds better but still no EQ. Apparently the DSP (EQ) is in the CD changer which has a very different wire harness than my single disc player.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
VivaLaVIDA, what year is your car? I have actually done the swap in my 2005 V50 and it did make a big improvement, though you might do better with aftermarket speakers. I ask about the because it makes a difference for installing the factory DynAudio speaker system in the front doors. I learned the hard way. There is no issue for the rear doors. The tweeters and woofers are in the same location, no problem. If you have the post-FL (2008-20012) you will need the interior door panel for the fronts to accommodate the mid-range (has a nice little silver trim ring around the mid-range).

If you have the pre-FL (2004.5-2007), it gets more involved. Again there is no issue for the rear doors. The front will need the interior door panel as with the post-FL. However, that door panel sits deeper (has bigger door pockets) and will not fit unless you change the door cassettes (window regulator assembly) to the post-FL style. This was a bit of a PITA.
View attachment 51443

I did not install the center speaker since I had the basic sound system and no hole in the dash. To power the speakers, I grabbed an amp from the junk yard 2008 S40 that had the DynAudio system. It was plug-n-play. Hoping to get the equalizer functions, I grabbed the ICM out of the 2008 but my car didn't like it. I grabbed another ICM out of a 2005 that had Premium sound and it sounds better but still no EQ. Apparently the DSP (EQ) is in the CD changer which has a very different wire harness than my single disc player.
Hi Autogeek,

Thank you for your reply! I have the 2008 model. To be sure, is there any drilling or modification needed? If it is not plug and play, I simply won't have time to do anything else.

Thanks!

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The factory speakers are held in place with aluminum pop-rivets that drill out very easily. Then you have to reattach your new speakers. If you are installing upgraded Volvo speakers, you could get pop-rivets or over-size screws that are big enough to take thread into the door and do it that way. Or, they way most do it is remove the old speaker from the mount. The 2008+ speakers are attached to the mount by 6 or 8 little torx head screws. The pre-FL are held together with glue and a twist lock. Anyway, remove the old speaker from the mount. You will need to disconnect (cut or unsolder) the wires from the mount. Secure the mount to the door with nuts, washers and bolts from any hardware store. Connect wires from the new speaker to the terminals on the mount. Then secure the new speaker to the mount with the original torx screws.
 

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The factory speakers are held in place with aluminum pop-rivets that drill out very easily. Then you have to reattach your new speakers. If you are installing upgraded Volvo speakers, you could get pop-rivets or over-size screws that are big enough to take thread into the door and do it that way. Or, they way most do it is remove the old speaker from the mount. The 2008+ speakers are attached to the mount by 6 or 8 little torx head screws. The pre-FL are held together with glue and a twist lock. Anyway, remove the old speaker from the mount. You will need to disconnect (cut or unsolder) the wires from the mount. Secure the mount to the door with nuts, washers and bolts from any hardware store. Connect wires from the new speaker to the terminals on the mount. Then secure the new speaker to the mount with the original torx screws.
Any idea if the Dynaudio system out of a C70 is the same as a S40/V50?

I know the door cards are different.
 

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I believe they do have some differences. The C30 is closer.
 

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Darn so you think the speakers either won't fit or will have different connectors?

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I would guess that the connectors are the same or you could work around them if they are different.
 
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