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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently had to replace my front left strut and and front left accelerometer under warranty because my mechanic left the wires hanging and some how, they got cut. I replaced them with brand new parts from Tasca. I had a 4-wheel alignment done that day too. The problem is that I still get codes. Sometimes I can drive for a half hour with the "Active Chassis, Service Settings" light not coming on. Other times it comes on right away. These are the codes:

SUM-0013 Suspension acceleration sensor, front left Signal missing
SUM-0220 Position sensor, calibration Not completed
SUM-0222 Solenoid, calibration Not completed
SUM-0115 Shock absorber solenoid, front left side Current too low Checking the Four-C (Continuously Controlled Chassis Concept) keypad unit

Are they cleared automatically when a repair is made? I'm not sure why they keep coming back. The oldest strut on my car is just over a year old.



Here's the SUM recalibration screen:

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My strut wire was damaged and I had to re solder them. Error message went away.
Maybe bad connection.
Where was the damage on yours? The wire on my strut actually got yanked out of the base of the strut.
 

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Same spot. I thought I had to replace the strut. I had to remove some of the surface material from the base of the strut while digging for remains of the wire. Had to do some creative soldering/gluing and using the whole tube of sealant after. I also secured the bottom of the wire with the strap to the actual strut to minimize any movement.

I still think that you have a bad connection there that causes such intermittent issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The connections were good so I eliminated the possibility of a loose, cut, corroded, or unseated wire in the engine bay. The only thing that I can think of is that I was driving with the cut strut, accelerometer, cables for a while. They were also covered in CV boot fluid. My guess is that the cut cables may have shorted something out in the SUM module itself. Are the SUM modules on the R cars interchangeable for 04-07 or are they bound to the ECU and VIN?
 

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sometimes doing a sum cal can be tricky, you have to be on absolute level surface sometimes the slightest uneven patch can render a sum cal not being accepted. took me literally 7 tries one time LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
sometimes doing a sum cal can be tricky, you have to be on absolute level surface sometimes the slightest uneven patch can render a sum cal not being accepted. took me literally 7 tries one time LOL
Even if I didn't properly do the SUM recal I would have expected that I still wouldn't be seeing the "Current too low" and "Signal missing" messages. That's the biggest reason why I am concerned.
 

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Even if I didn't properly do the SUM recal I would have expected that I still wouldn't be seeing the "Current too low" and "Signal missing" messages. That's the biggest reason why I am concerned.
That happened to my car and a sum cal fixed it :)
 

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your soldering job at the strut is no good.

redo it and then sum recal it should be fine

if it had grease on it, it needs to be cleaned off 1000%, a botched soldering job will seem like it worked but actually didnt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That happened to my car and a sum cal fixed it :)
OK, I'll give it another go.

your soldering job at the strut is no good.

redo it and then sum recal it should be fine

if it had grease on it, it needs to be cleaned off 1000%, a botched soldering job will seem like it worked but actually didnt.
No soldering in my case. The strut was replaced under warranty.
 

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Go in the "delivery" tab in VIDA, in the "diagnosis" section I think. There you find "Erase all" so you erase the codes with that. I think after that you have to cycle the car engine on-off, and "update" the diag. tab so it talks with every module to get info. The codes should be gone. If you drive and have the codes back, you still have a problem. Try running the Calibration a few times, so you get the 4 solenoids to also say "OK" It worked after 3 times yesterday when I did it, without even moving/raising the car...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If I find a solution to a problem that I posted here, I always update the thread... even if it's two years old! As I mentioned in the first post, the cables to my front left strut and my front left accelerometer were cut some how when the shop tech didn't zip tie them correctly. It was most likely road debris since my CV boot was also damaged. I got a new strut under warranty and the shop ordered a new accelerometer and performed the installation. Unfortunately, that didn't get rid of the active chassis DTC. I learned to live with the warning light but it always bothered me.

What's more, sometimes I would read the codes with VIDA and they would point to different sensors. Sometimes the rear left, sometimes the rear right, etc. I replaced both of them to help solve the problem. Still, no dice! At one point I had one of the local Volvo specialist shops try to find the issue. They took two hours and said they still needed more time. Nope. I also took it to an automotive electronics specialist. They said the SUM itself was on its way out. I bought a used one and saw the exact same issues so I knew that wasn't it.

ANYWAY, IT ALL CAME TO AN END LAST SATURDAY? I'd ordered a new front left accelerometer from Tasca thinking that maybe the first suspension shop may have damaged the accelerometer during the install. Nope, they had ordered the wrong accerometer altogether! They ordered and installed one for the front right, not the front left. The connectors are the same, and it can be mounted to the strut in similar fashion but it is a different PN for each side and that bad data wreaks havoc with the SUM. Seeing the two parts side by side and the slightly different way that you have to mount each one, made me want to choke-out the shop tech who removed the original and did the replacement. No more DTC and my dash is free of warning messages for the first time in over two years!
 
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