SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I remeber reading a topic allong the lines of "potholed roads after the winter have ruined my suspension; what do i replace?", so I expect to be shot down with "search!". But I think that question is slightly different to mine.

My 67k mi SR has started to "crash" a bit more over holes/bumps etc - no nasty knocks, just doesnt feel as tight as it did when I bought it 30k ago. I was therefore thinking of replacing the lower wishbones all round (seems to be the common way to do it, rather than just replace the bushes) and the top mounts all round. I was going to target these as a) wishbone bushes are surely pretty critical and likely to be tired b) a coleagues T5 just had top monts done to fix a knoking noise at 77k mi (mine are therefore likely to be worn also) c) ARB bushes (or sway bars for most of you!) were done just after I bought the car - surely they last 30k.

Clearly there are other bits that would do no harm to replace - drop links/end links/ball joints - do you think Im on the right track or are other items better targets. However, I'd rather not spend an absolute fortune, so I'm not just going to replce the lot. Oh - and its not bad enough to spend £2000 on 4 new four-c shocks.

Also, as this is now not my daily driver, I dont need it fixing up as soon as possible. I'm an engineer, technically minded and keen to do some work on it myself. I'm not too pround to admit I dont have much experience of mending major bits on my car, but would this be a job I could tackle - my father has spiring compressors and offered to lend a hand...

And one final question (which is probably stupid, and going to make people say "you shouldnt even think of doing the work"), but what is the construction of the top mount? Is it a metal plate to seat the spring and some rubber bush for the damper? If so, presumably the rubber bush gets worn. If not, what does get worn? As I say, a dumb question, but you've got to ask to find out...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,964 Posts
List to replce

1. Spring seats with Xc90
2. Control Arm bushings won't hurt.
3.5 Align car with 0 toe in rear.
3. Sum Calibation (make sure turn down headlights)
4. Inspect Endlinks for leaks etc..
5 Upgade to IPD enlins while your in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: (chinaonnitrous1)

Brilliant - quick and to the point!

Looks like my guess was largely correct, with some propper setting up - allignment/calibration.

I'll have a look at the endlinks whilst im in there, but its not like the coils have to come out again to do them so theres no real incentive to do them necessarily at the same time.

Get that done, feed it a new TCV, and should be good to go.


EDIT: Would still appreciate any advice on whether this would be a suitable DIY. It doesnt seem that tricky to me, but thats often the case until its half apart...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,964 Posts
Re: (jltodd)

Quote, originally posted by jltodd »
Brilliant - quick and to the point!

Looks like my guess was largely correct, with some propper setting up - allignment/calibration.

I'll have a look at the endlinks whilst im in there, but its not like the coils have to come out again to do them so theres no real incentive to do them necessarily at the same time.

Get that done, feed it a new TCV, and should be good to go.

Yup, its 2:41am my time here in California. I'm all you've got untill the east coast wakes up in 3 hours.


But 0 toe in the rear makes for a great handling car. With the Control arm (wishbone) replacement is going to feel much like new.

If you want to go powerflex bushings in the control arms, you can do it...and just have a shop press in the bushings. Its a nice investment for the car.

I personally have it on my front lower control arms (the part that bolts to the subframe)

I want to do it on the rear, but budget is tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
I would definitely check all your bushings. I've replaced the ones in the control arms front and back, upgraded the endlinks and sways. Definitely makes for a tighter ride. But you mentioned that the car "crashes" over bumps more. I know you don't want to invest in new shocks and struts but that may be the culprit as the front struts are prone to failing. $2000UK seems expensive for a set of stuts and shocks. I'm in the midst of replacing all mine with a friend due to leaking front struts, and it cost me $1800 Cdn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (RuffTuff_95)

I'm sure the shocks could be the culprit. The ride doesn't "crash" too bad per say, its more that its noisier than I think it should be. I think the best description is that it feels like a load of bolts need a quarter of a turn tighter. I know that not the case, just a description.

Ive just bought an ex VWUK Golf GTI (great car - with the 230bhp engine and lower weight, not too far off my RICA'd R in acceleration up to 70 or so...) and the suspension is just so damn tight! It showed up the diffence in brand new suspension parts big time, and I just want to get the R feeling a bit younger.

Bottom line is that I think I can get an improvement with china's programme. If its not right, then I'll start worrying about shocks. And at 1800CAD for 4, its probably worth a flight and some exess baggage!!! Thats about 1/2 the price that I would be taken for here. (but then again, with the exchange rate what it was when these cars were being sold new, the whole car was half the price - my car was best part of £40,000 new = $63,500 at the then exchange rate!!(just looked that up))
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top