Hey folks<br> I'm gathering parts to freshen up the front end of my '67 122s and wondered how much variation, if any, there is in the ball joints available on the market. Any brand to avoid? How about any favorite source as well? Just wondering before I buy.<br>TIA<br>Gary i.
Suspension Question
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Re: Suspension Question (pookybear)
Before ordering ball joints inspect the entire front suspension, steering, brakes, wheels, tires, bushings and supporting sub-frames.<p>If the steering box has too much slop and the adjustment nut is fully used up consider a rebuild.<p>If the steering column feels sloppy due to worn steering coupler grommets the new parts are very cheap but much labor is involved for replacement.<p>New ball joints are available from many online sources at varying prices and quality but your best bet may be to stay with ipd as you will have no quality issues while paying a fair price (not the lowest).<p><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-122/Suspension-&-Steering/c-1-71-118" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-12...1-118</A>/<p>During the ball joint installation consider a full redo of the front wheel bearings, brakes, shocks, steering rods and ends, steering idler arm bush, ipd anti-sway bars (rear also), front suspension bushings, etc.<p>While (safely) under the car tighten all sub-frame bolts/nuts and check for structural damage and/or major corrosion.<p>Look at the wheels/tires for misalignment, damage, proper balance and/or uneven wear.<p>Once you get the front all "fresh" and those fancy wide wheels installed with new fat tires the steering effort at low speeds will be at armstrong level. To minimize this run about 36-40psi in all four tires but drop this back to 28-34psi for highway trips and to lessen hydroplane tendencies.<p>Another option (and much quicker and cheaper) is to install just the new ball joints then wait for the irs refund to finance more.<p>George Dill<p>
Before ordering ball joints inspect the entire front suspension, steering, brakes, wheels, tires, bushings and supporting sub-frames.<p>If the steering box has too much slop and the adjustment nut is fully used up consider a rebuild.<p>If the steering column feels sloppy due to worn steering coupler grommets the new parts are very cheap but much labor is involved for replacement.<p>New ball joints are available from many online sources at varying prices and quality but your best bet may be to stay with ipd as you will have no quality issues while paying a fair price (not the lowest).<p><A HREF="http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-122/Suspension-&-Steering/c-1-71-118" TARGET="_blank">http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-12...1-118</A>/<p>During the ball joint installation consider a full redo of the front wheel bearings, brakes, shocks, steering rods and ends, steering idler arm bush, ipd anti-sway bars (rear also), front suspension bushings, etc.<p>While (safely) under the car tighten all sub-frame bolts/nuts and check for structural damage and/or major corrosion.<p>Look at the wheels/tires for misalignment, damage, proper balance and/or uneven wear.<p>Once you get the front all "fresh" and those fancy wide wheels installed with new fat tires the steering effort at low speeds will be at armstrong level. To minimize this run about 36-40psi in all four tires but drop this back to 28-34psi for highway trips and to lessen hydroplane tendencies.<p>Another option (and much quicker and cheaper) is to install just the new ball joints then wait for the irs refund to finance more.<p>George Dill<p>
Re: Suspension Question (gdill2)
After further research, it appears that Scan-Tech is the only brand out there. I bought one upper of that brand from e-bay and it plainly states 'Made in Italy'. Go figure!<br>My planned sequence of events is to replace the control arm bushings with urethane (already gotten from IPD) so the top of the front tires are closer to being over the bottom of the front tires....that should help out the steering effort! Absolutely misaligned in at least one plane.This seemed like a great time to replace all the ball joints while I was under there. During the process I will closely inspect all tie rod ends to see if they are downright scary or merely suspect. <br>Unless I notice abnormal bounce, the shocks won't get replaced until I go for the progressive lowering springs.<br>Good point about the steering box and couplers...I had forgotten those.<br>Thanks again for the feedback, George!<br>
After further research, it appears that Scan-Tech is the only brand out there. I bought one upper of that brand from e-bay and it plainly states 'Made in Italy'. Go figure!<br>My planned sequence of events is to replace the control arm bushings with urethane (already gotten from IPD) so the top of the front tires are closer to being over the bottom of the front tires....that should help out the steering effort! Absolutely misaligned in at least one plane.This seemed like a great time to replace all the ball joints while I was under there. During the process I will closely inspect all tie rod ends to see if they are downright scary or merely suspect. <br>Unless I notice abnormal bounce, the shocks won't get replaced until I go for the progressive lowering springs.<br>Good point about the steering box and couplers...I had forgotten those.<br>Thanks again for the feedback, George!<br>
Re: Suspension Question (pookybear)
ScanTech is NOT the only brand out there!<br>Several folks have complained here and on other forums about their variable quality.<br>I can cite an example of ball joint problems with QH brand parts - The first one I installed wiped out in a few months in Panama. Turned out it came from the factory with no lube. Later I used them again but removed the boot and filled them with grease, then replaced the boot. Those lasted fairly well. BTW it rains every day in Panama most of the year.
ScanTech is NOT the only brand out there!<br>Several folks have complained here and on other forums about their variable quality.<br>I can cite an example of ball joint problems with QH brand parts - The first one I installed wiped out in a few months in Panama. Turned out it came from the factory with no lube. Later I used them again but removed the boot and filled them with grease, then replaced the boot. Those lasted fairly well. BTW it rains every day in Panama most of the year.
Re: Suspension Question (gdill2)
George(s)<br> IPD's lowers are listed as Scantech and their uppers have no name shown. If IPD sells them (and if there is grease under the boots) is that good enough praise for the brand?<br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0">
George(s)<br> IPD's lowers are listed as Scantech and their uppers have no name shown. If IPD sells them (and if there is grease under the boots) is that good enough praise for the brand?<br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0">
Re: Suspension Question (pookybear)
Chase these around (much duplication and some are bogus) to see what is out on the www as to brand and origin...<p><A HREF="http://images.google.com/images?as_q=volvo+122&hl=en&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=ball+joint&as_oq=&as_eq=&imgtype=&imgsz=&imgw=&imgh=&as_filetype=&imgc=&as_sitesearch=&safe=images&as_st=y" TARGET="_blank">http://images.google.com/image..._st=y</A><p><A HREF="http://images.google.com/images?as_q=volvo+122&hl=en&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=upper+ball+joint&as_oq=&as_eq=&imgtype=&imgsz=&imgw=&imgh=&as_filetype=&imgc=&as_sitesearch=&safe=images&as_st=y" TARGET="_blank">http://images.google.com/image..._st=y</A><p><A HREF="http://images.google.com/images?as_q=volvo+122&hl=en&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=lower+ball+joint&as_oq=&as_eq=&imgtype=&imgsz=&imgw=&imgh=&as_filetype=&imgc=&as_sitesearch=&safe=images&as_st=y" TARGET="_blank">http://images.google.com/image..._st=y</A><p>George Dill
Chase these around (much duplication and some are bogus) to see what is out on the www as to brand and origin...<p><A HREF="http://images.google.com/images?as_q=volvo+122&hl=en&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=ball+joint&as_oq=&as_eq=&imgtype=&imgsz=&imgw=&imgh=&as_filetype=&imgc=&as_sitesearch=&safe=images&as_st=y" TARGET="_blank">http://images.google.com/image..._st=y</A><p><A HREF="http://images.google.com/images?as_q=volvo+122&hl=en&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=upper+ball+joint&as_oq=&as_eq=&imgtype=&imgsz=&imgw=&imgh=&as_filetype=&imgc=&as_sitesearch=&safe=images&as_st=y" TARGET="_blank">http://images.google.com/image..._st=y</A><p><A HREF="http://images.google.com/images?as_q=volvo+122&hl=en&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=lower+ball+joint&as_oq=&as_eq=&imgtype=&imgsz=&imgw=&imgh=&as_filetype=&imgc=&as_sitesearch=&safe=images&as_st=y" TARGET="_blank">http://images.google.com/image..._st=y</A><p>George Dill
Re: Suspension Question (gdill2)
George D<p> It appears that the best deal on Scan-Tech is from EuroPartsDirect. Zero freight fee via UPS ground. That completed, I'll start another question/thread.<p>Thanks again for your help! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
George D<p> It appears that the best deal on Scan-Tech is from EuroPartsDirect. Zero freight fee via UPS ground. That completed, I'll start another question/thread.<p>Thanks again for your help! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
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