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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to do the entire suspension/steering system on my '98 V70 AWD. Prefer to do as much as possible in one go.

This is what I'm thinking so far:

Front suspension kit with Bilstein tourings. Includes strut mounts, spring seats, bump stops, hardware, etc: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vo...ein-touring-struts-and-oem-mounts-oem-vfsk2-t

Control Arms front left/right: OEM Volvo from Tasca

Front tie rod ends left/right Lemforder.

Front sway bar links

Nivomat rear shocks 8626027 from Tasca

IPD Swaybar kit.

Anything else that you would consider essential to having a tight, good handling car? I'm thinking about the TME springs, but I'm not sure that the relatively small difference in ride height matters that much to me, and I'm concerned about how those springs might match the damping of the relatively OEM parts I'm using. Previously I had a '97 855 T5 with the Koni FSD kit and all this other work done that handled great, but it was a tad harsher than I'm looking for now.

The front shocks on the car are clearly gone. The nivomats are less obviously so. One side drops down a bit more than the other, but only after 12 hours or more. Can these be easily replaced later without needing an alignment? The rest of the rear suspension is a bit of a mystery to me. Most of the parts look in good shape back there, and seem to be quite expensive to replace.

Appreciate any feedback.
 

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if doing the IPD sways might as well do their HD end links. really drawing a blank but i know someone makes ones that are HD too but you can actually grease them. also the poly subframe inserts are a pretty nice little upgrade. you can of course go delrin subframe bushings but the poly ones are a pretty simple and quick install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. The endlinks I have already are ipd hd leftover from the 850.

Do the subframe bushings change the ride or cause any vibrations?
 

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i didn't find much added vibration from it but i really liked the improvement in handling. it's subtle yet really nice, makes me really want to upgrade all the way to the delrin inserts.
 

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I think you'll be happy with the Bilstein Touring shocks up front and the rest of that kit should cover things pretty well.
If you want to go wild and truly redo the front suspension here's a part number list for a 98 AWD for reference:

Front Suspension:
-1397492 x2 subframe bracket (supposedly there’s an updated version but I can't find the part number)
-Kaplhenke Delrin Subframe Bushings are excellent if you are planning on upgrading. Otherwise, get the Volvo bushings from an XC90.
-1387860 x2 endlinks (Meyle HD are beefier than stock; IPD also has their own HD version)
-30683637 XC90 Spring Seat x2
-31200599 Strut Mounts x2 (use Sachs/Boge)
-9157705 x2 Spring Mounting Spacer (Everyone forgets this or doesn't even know it exists! It's like a little gasket)
-30647969 x2 Strut Mount Cap
-31201386 x2 strut washer
-9140067 x2 bump stop (Hudson is OE I think, Febi should be good too)
-31262068 x2 Retainer nut

Don't forget to check your motor mounts!

Looks like you're good on the steering components. I use Moog outer tie rods as they are also good quality but Lemfoerder is OE. For the control arms you're wise to use the Volvo ones.

Rear Suspension:
-9157321 x2 Upper Shock Mount
-9157320 x2 Upper bearing bushing
If you are replacing the nivomats, you should probably at least replace the above components and since you're adding the IPD swaybars, you may want to get a new pair of rear endlinks: 9157313 x2. The IPD kit will come with poly bushings and hardware where these attach to the subframe.

If you were to remove the rear springs to replace them for some reason, there are a couple components that go along with them:
-9169378 x2 spring seat
-9157311 x2 Bumpstop

Beyond that, there are 3 sets of bushings that are in the rear subframe, 2 sets of bushings in the rear toe bars, 1 bushing on each rear spindle, 1 bushing on each of the rear differential 'arms' and 1 bushing in each bracket (1 per side) that attaches the body to the stays that attach to the rear lower control arm. Very few people replace any of these because most of them require dropping the rear subframe to properly R&R them.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks a lot Big Will! I think I had everything on the front covered other than the subframe stuff, and I will order the rear parts you suggest as well.

Does anyone know if the regular V70R springs are the same as on my V70 AWD?
 

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They're the same yes unless you are in Europe and your car came with the 'lowered chassis' which consisted of different nivomats and springs in the rear and different springs on the front (front struts are all the same). In the US, Rs and plain AWDs came with the same nivomats and springs. XCs had slightly taller ones. All are interchangeable.

You can buy the lowered chassis nivomats if you want your car to be a bit lower. Part number is: 8626025 and the rear spring kit for the lowered chassis is 9200184 but that'll be pretty hard to find and if you do it's wickedly expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks again.

Tasca does list that lowered chassis spring http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/9200184 although who knows if they can really supply it. What front springs would you match them with?

What about the TME springs? My concern is that if they are stiffer than stock, they won't match well to the stock-ish dampers I'm planning on using. Any feedback on that? How do they ride?
 

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Honestly I think stock GLT springs sit at a slightly lower level than what came on my V70R, on new Sachs OE struts.

I'm thinking of using the adjustable stops and springs from Kalphenke, then adjusting my stance or rake of the body that way.

I like how much new you're putting into the front end of your car. I have most the parts to do this myself and I've just been procrastinating. Can't wait to hear what you feel when you get this all done.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did the same thing on my 855 T-5 several years ago and the car handled GREAT so I know what I'm shooting for with this one. On the T5 I did Koni FSD's. I loved the stance, and the ride was perfectly acceptable, but just a tad bit harsher than I'd like for what is now a full-fledged family car - hence my hesitation with the TME springs or anything non OE (other than the sway bars as I know exactly how they will affect the ride). Although that car also had the loose dash syndrome which made it seem like it rode harder than it did.

Get those parts on! I honestly think good suspension and steering does more than almost anything else to make an old car feel new again. :thumbup:
 

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The TME springs are great and will match up just fine with the setup you're considering. I personally run TME springs on the front of my wagon and the Ohlins/Volvo springs on the rear but that's in conjunction with the Ohlins roadholding suspension kit. The TME springs are great because they lowered the front to nicely match the lowered rear. Price-wise, you can probably get a full set of TMEs for the same as the Volvo lowering springs and whatever Volvo springs you choose up front.
The budget option would be to simply get springs from Lesjöfors (pretty sure they were the original manufacturer anyway).

Previously, I was using some Volvo springs (which came on some C70s and apparently 850/70 diesels) which are part number 3546644 (individual springs). These were listed as the lowered chassis front springs but I didn't find that they lowered the car at all and I'm starting to believe that these are not the correct lowering springs for an AWD Volvo. You would be better off using 9169021 which I think were stock on AWD/Rs. Eventually I changed to the TME springs up front.

Here is the car with the Volvo front springs:


Here it is with the TME springs up front:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
To confirm, if I use the TME springs, I also need the lowered Nivomat part number 8626025 correct? I can't use the standard Nivomat for my car?
 

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To confirm, if I use the TME springs, I also need the lowered Nivomat part number 8626025 correct? I can't use the standard Nivomat for my car?
The springs are shortened Oem springs and they are ment to be used with drop bolts. The bolts come with with kit when brand new.


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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok, so it includes those spacers for mounting the longer stock Nivomats, but if I'm buying new Nivo's should I buy the 8626025 part instead? Do you need the drop bolts either way?
 

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Ok, so it includes those spacers for mounting the longer stock Nivomats, but if I'm buying new Nivo's should I buy the 8626025 part instead?
I'm not aware of any one who has used the shorter ones yet. They may be dead on they may not be. Situation occurs now that your willing to shell out for new ones, if they are too low you can't get them to be any higher, the taller ones you can at least drop down a little after the fact.

The spacers are just longer bolts that you then place the tabs of the shock on. Visualizing it left to right it goes

Suspension Arm | 1" thick bolt | Nivo Tab | Bottom bolt |

Chance to post my Tme / Ohlins v70r as well here


used Tme in the front like will and then the Kaplhenke spring setup in the rear.

Safest bet is for the normal height nivos giving you some leeway later on.
 

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No reason the TMEs won't work well with the lowered chassis nivos. European Rs came with the 025 nivos and TME sold those springs over here too (probably more so since they're Swedish). Most of the lowering is done via the shocks themselves rather than the springs with the nivomats.

I sold a pair of the lowered nivomats to "flyfishing" and he runs them on his R. Not sure what springs he's using though. I think at least a handful of people switched to them over on Volvospeed. For a while it was a popular upgrade as Tasca and DW Volvo had good prices on them a few years ago.

Peacock - your wagon's looking awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, well that's good. I have the regular Nivo's already on the way. I'd return them and buy the lowered ones if there is an advantage to doing so, but if there is no down-side to using the ones I have coming I guess I'll stick with them and order the springs.
 

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No reason the TMEs won't work well with the lowered chassis nivos. European Rs came with the 025 nivos and TME sold those springs over here too (probably more so since they're Swedish). Most of the lowering is done via the shocks themselves rather than the springs with the nivomats.

I sold a pair of the lowered nivomats to "flyfishing" and he runs them on his R. Not sure what springs he's using though. I think at least a handful of people switched to them over on Volvospeed. For a while it was a popular upgrade as Tasca and DW Volvo had good prices on them a few years ago.

Peacock - your wagon's looking awesome!
Thanks! never driven better then right now, Ohlins have been on 8 in the front and 5 in the rear. Tune feels awesome and it's been rock solid in every other respect, planning to ruin all that with a m66 this winter.

Ok, well that's good. I have the regular Nivo's already on the way. I'd return them and buy the lowered ones if there is an advantage to doing so, but if there is no down-side to using the ones I have coming I guess I'll stick with them and order the springs.
Should leave you with options to lower it later which is a plus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, everything is installed and I got to drive it for the first time today. Ended up going with Koni Str.t shocks instead of the Bilsteins and the 8626025 Nivomats. In short, :D:D

The ride is PERFECT. Taut and firm but not harsh in any way. It's exactly what I wanted for this car so thanks to everyone for the feedback and help. :beer:
 

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Well, everything is installed and I got to drive it for the first time today. Ended up going with Koni Str.t shocks instead of the Bilsteins and the 8626025 Nivomats. In short, :D:D

The ride is PERFECT. Taut and firm but not harsh in any way. It's exactly what I wanted for this car so thanks to everyone for the feedback and help.
Show us the rear height on the 25 nivos, picture with ruler from center of wheel to arch.

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