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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installing subs in the R. Have to take them out of Trailblazer. First time ever messing with this stuff. Someone else installed in trailblazer. Got radio out. The two black "plug-in" wires that were ran to my amp from radio were plugged into two black plug-in wires on my radio??? These wires protrude from the top corner of the rear plate of my sony xplode and our about 8 inches long. Did these come in the radio and will just go back in the trailblazer unplugged or do I need to get in my head unit and get them out to wire in the R? Sorry I sound like an idiot. I am when doing this stuff.<br>Also, REM wire that is ran from the amp to the blue wire in my radio harness...when i disonnect this do i have to complete this connection in the harness that was originally spliced. To sum this up. The blue wire runs from the head unit and is connected the REM wire for the amp. MEanwhile there a loose blue wire hanging inside the radio den.<p>???<p>
 

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Re: Sure you have quick answer for my subs deinstallation. (bigwill5112)

Not real clear what is going back in the Trailblazer and what is moving to R?<p>The wires from the radio in the Trailblazer going to the amp sound like a line level ouput from the radio to the amp. You don't need to do anything with them, and they can be left unterminated, just tape any exosed metal parts. <p>The blue wire is the remote turn on for the amp. It is what turns on the sub amp, when ever you turn on the radio. Not sure where the amp is going to wind up, but where ever that is, it will need the remote turn on trigger. Again this wire from the radio in the Trailblazer can be left in place and unterminated, just tape it so it can not touch any ground.<p>I should add that this may get more response in the Audio forum.
 

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Re: Sure you have quick answer for my subs deinstallation. (rogersampson)

I am moving the amp and subs to Volvo. The aftermarket head unit in the Trailblazer is staying. I want to ensure I take all necessary connections out of the trailblazer before I reinstall the head unit.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>rogersampson</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The wires from the radio in the Trailblazer going to the amp sound like a line level ouput from the radio to the amp. You don't need to do anything with them, and they can be left unterminated, just tape any exosed metal parts. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>The thing is there are acutally wires from the head unit that plug into the rockford Fosgate RCA type wires that go to the sub. Pics are included:<p><IMG SRC="http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/BigWill5112/Xplod.jpg?t=1246030877" BORDER="0"><p><IMG SRC="http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss204/BigWill5112/Den.jpg?t=1246034358" BORDER="0"><p>I have posted in audio forum as well.<p>Also, so when people say the blue wire acts as a relay means that the amp won't use power from the battery until the ignition is turned on?
 

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Re: Sure you have quick answer for my subs deinstallation. (bigwill5112)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>bigwill5112</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, so when people say the blue wire acts as a relay means that the amp won't use power from the battery until the ignition is turned on?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>You got it! The amp should have a mondo power cable straight from the battery, and a ground cable to the chassis somewhere. To avoid having the amp constantly "on" (as it is hardwired to the battery) it requires a tiny amount of +12VDC switched. This triggers it and tells it to kick on (that's the REM wire). So, as someone above said, yep, just tape off the wire as it comes out of the HU, and you're good to go. However, the amp will still need such a setup in the R (you can run the REM line to a switched fuse in the trunk, behind the drivers side panel)<p>The black RCA cables coming out of the HU are the "pigtails" that send the low freq signal to the amp for a sub. Some HU's have many of these, that also push out regular freq for external amps, before sound gets pushed to the speakers (this explanation is a bit of overkill, sorry!) However, the R has no such output from the factory HU. There are a few solutions: swap out the factory HU (fairly detailed of a job) or install a LOC (line out converter) somewhere. There is debate about where to pull the signal from for the LOC, FWIW my setup pulls from the rear deck speakers and works just fine! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"><p>HTH!!<p>-Steve
 
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