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Screws came loose on the glass-to-track, and one screw stripped when I tried to tighten it.........is that part of the track available?
 

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no, youd have to remove the whole unit to service it anyway and they all rattle at another spot, so youd want to get that fixed too. this involves removing the headliner and possibly damaging the interior.

better find someone who can retap it and use an oversized screw. hopefully you didnt bend the rail tightening it, as it could bind up after. theres also a warning about this in the procedure for tightening it. if thats the case youd have to bend it back somehow.


torque is only 5nm!! thats like lifting a :beer: .


if youre in a pinch a self tapper might work, but the threads may be too coarse and they protrude into things.. best to use short fine-thread machine screws like oem ones and a tap that goes with it.


glass can be removed while retapping


 

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Re-Tapping is the way to go. Fairly easy to do and I've done it in order to install larger bolts to reduce rattles.
 

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no, youd have to remove the whole unit to service it anyway and they all rattle at another spot, so youd want to get that fixed too. this involves removing the headliner and possibly damaging the interior.

better find someone who can retap it and use an oversized screw. hopefully you didnt bend the rail tightening it, as it could bind up after. theres also a warning about this in the procedure for tightening it. if thats the case youd have to bend it back somehow.


torque is only 5nm!! thats like lifting a :beer: .


if youre in a pinch a self tapper might work, but the threads may be too coarse and they protrude into things.. best to use short fine-thread machine screws like oem ones and a tap that goes with it.


glass can be removed while retapping
Of course I find this thread after the fact. While replacing two guides and modesty panels I overstepped the thin margin between tightened and stripped thread on one of these M5x10 socket screws (part#986197) to tighten the glass to the guide rail. Before re-tapping the hole or buying a new $150 guide rail I tried an M6x10 screw which was too big. Thankfully was successful with an M5x12 hex (with washer).
 

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Of course I find this thread after the fact. While replacing two guides and modesty panels I overstepped the thin margin between tightened and stripped thread on one of these M5x10 socket screws (part#986197) to tighten the glass to the guide rail. Before re-tapping the hole or buying a new $150 guide rail I tried an M6x10 screw which was too big. Thankfully was successful with an M5x12 hex (with washer).
I'd like to "me too" this. The M5-12 hex screw with steel washer did the trick for me. The reason this works is because the OEM screw tapers toward the tip, so it doesn't strip the deeper threads out as badly. You still need to tighten gently (you can't torque to spec!) and do use blue threadlocker.

Both of my rear screws stripped out at 5NM of torque on a calibrated torque wrench. I'd go 4NM with blue threadlocker on the OEM screws, but you'll need to use less than that if you use the M5-12. The front screws did torque up okay (but it felt close.)

Screw and washer were available at O'Reilly's. This was on a 2007 S60.
 
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