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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For those that want to see how a SUM calibration is done with VIDA/DiCE, here's how.

After "reading" your vehicle with DiCE, click on the "Vehicle Communication" tab.

Then click on the SUM module, then click on "Advanced" tab, then expand the SUM configuration list.

Double click "Calibrating the system" which will launch a new screen.

On the new screen click on the VCT2000 icon and you're done.

Note, Be sure that your headlights are in the ON position before initiating the calibration.

Screen shots:


 

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Remember if your Rs a$$ is lower than a hoochie mama at a ghetto club, you might have to raise the rear a hair using a floor jack.
 

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I hate to ask this question, but is Vida/Dice available via web for less than the outrageous prices they are offering it for? I manage a software system that handles 32 different financial products, codes the if/then variables, and initiates a database query for 32 specific pricing trees and although being proprietary and private, still would cost FAR less than volvo charges for their 'diagnostic' and 'recalibration' software. Its almost sad that they know that the market is nil, so they can charge an arm and a leg for every plug in, every sum cal, every diagnostic. Ugh,
 

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question, for the sum cal, does the car have to be on a very flat surface or can it be done any reasonable location?
 

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They charged me $300 for THIS?? UGHHHH.

Seriously, how accurately level does the car have to be? Should you wait for it to 'settle' or something, or just drive 'er up and press calibrate?
 

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thank you for this.
 

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They charged me $300 for THIS?? UGHHHH.

Seriously, how accurately level does the car have to be? Should you wait for it to 'settle' or something, or just drive 'er up and press calibrate?
Did your dealership charge you $300 for SUM calibration?

What was the reason why they needed to calibrate in the first place (new struts?)
 

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Anybody try this and see any noticeable difference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I hate to ask this question, but is Vida/Dice available via web for less than the outrageous prices they are offering it for?
PM me ;)

They charged me $300 for THIS?? UGHHHH.

Seriously, how accurately level does the car have to be? Should you wait for it to 'settle' or something, or just drive 'er up and press calibrate?
Dude that blows!! They must have updated your SUM software, which is different procedure. Not sure how level the car has to be but I'd assume it needs to be pretty level for the calibration to work properly. No settling is needed but you shouldn't be sitting in the car when you do the recal.

What was the reason why they needed to calibrate in the first place (new struts?)
There are a couple of reasons. One is if you replace a strut or accelerometer or position sensor, the 4C needs to calibrate the new hardware. Also if you install lowering springs the 4C likes to be recalibrated. Another reason is that the SUM sometimes learns too much crap and just gets wonky, which a recalibration usually cures.
 

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Note, Be sure that your headlights are in the ON position before initiating the calibration.
Since a few years THAT isn't needed anymore, calibration can be done with headlights off (switch in the "0" position).
Another reason is that the SUM sometimes learns too much crap and just gets wonky, which a recalibration usually cures.
Nah, with a calibration the system "learns" the wearing of each shock. There aren't driving habbits stored or whatever. This allowes to just replace just one shock instead replacing in pair.
edit:
however, if they have a +50K then replacing in pair is adviced, you just can replace 1 if one is bend or blown below this for example.
 

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Since a few years THAT isn't needed anymore, calibration can be done with headlights off (switch in the "0" position).

Nah, with a calibration the system "learns" the wearing of each shock. There aren't driving habbits stored or whatever. This allowes to just replace just one shock instead replacing in pair.
edit:
however, if they have a +50K then replacing in pair is adviced, you just can replace 1 if one is bend or blown below this for example.
is there a way to just reset the SUM and get rid of "wear" data without sum cal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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wear is wear , losing oil is different... schocks wear ... best way to try anything is, is to disconnect it.
 

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JARMO
Does Dice / Vida allow the user to monitor the health or remaining life of a strut?

Doesn't seem like it would be possible, but it can learn the wearing of a given strut, possibly does it provide a readout?
 

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JARMO
Does Dice / Vida allow the user to monitor the health or remaining life of a strut?

Doesn't seem like it would be possible, but it can learn the wearing of a given strut, possibly does it provide a readout?
Most likely it'll start leaking before anything wears out. hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
JARMO
Does Dice / Vida allow the user to monitor the health or remaining life of a strut?

Doesn't seem like it would be possible, but it can learn the wearing of a given strut, possibly does it provide a readout?
Nope it doesn't do any of that, at least I haven't seen it yet. VIDA has a lot crap packed in it.
 

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Not possible. calib just uses paramaters at that moment.
sometimes when a shock is gone or dropped bellow 80% you will notice ...depands on circuit on driving. some of you know i race a f360 and replaced many dampers sofar.
 

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They charged me $300 for THIS?? UGHHHH.

Seriously, how accurately level does the car have to be? Should you wait for it to 'settle' or something, or just drive 'er up and press calibrate?
don't you feel enlightened now? THe dealership is a racket. And they jack up the price of the DICE unit to extrordinary levels to protect this racket.

Our cars are largely computers that can be reprogrammed to whatever....if everyone could do it it would destroy their artificial business model.
 

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Not possible. calib just uses paramaters at that moment.
sometimes when a shock is gone or dropped bellow 80% you will notice ...depands on circuit on driving. some of you know i race a f360 and replaced many dampers sofar.
how does the SUM learn about the shock's health? for example, i had a completely blown shock and nothing came up about chassis service required when i bought the car... just trying to figure out what data the SUM could collect and not detect that?
 
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