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Do your SUM calibration and the physically readjust beam drop using special equipment. It will mess up things only when lights were adjusted incorrectly
 

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I remember reading somewhere that SUM calibration shouldn't be done with the headlights adjusted anywhere close to the top of their adjustment range, else you run the risk of the leveling running right off the edge (since level adjustment from the baseline is manual and a SUM recal sets a new baseline).

For level adjustment, you CAN use special tools, but you can also use an ordinary hex bit to adjust if you have a level surface, a wall, and some tape, a la this method:



1: tweak headlight level adjustment to be somewhere in the middle of their range.
2: sum recal
3: measure height of front of hood, tape lines on wall
4: face wall
5: cover one headlight with a rag, adjust the other so the beam center is on the line (DOT spec is something like 1.5 degrees of down angle)
6: repeat with other headlight
 

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1. To your FB post, yes I have vida and would be willing to meet with you and no name lol. I met with zach off the page last week and fixed up his caR.

2. you have to make sure your headlights are turned on for the SUM calibration or they will not adjust to the rear position sensors and default to its lowest position.

3. if your caR is lowered enough it will throw the rear position sensors out of tolerance and give you ride problems. Jacking up the car in the back will work for the calibration but it will go right back out of wack as soon as its lowerd back to ride height. you can do a few things about that. What I did was took off the arms to the rear position sensors that attach to the suspension to read, and bent them accordingly so that the Voltage readings off vida were back to normal. If they are off or wrong you will get anti-skid and chassis setting temp off messages. I did anyways.
 
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