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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So got my SUM calibrated today. My headlights got ****ed and they're pointing at the ground now, even though we put them to the ON position.

HOW DO I FEKS? I can't drive at night at all!

Also another question, what does calibrating the SUM actually do? (extensive info welcome)
 

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I jus commented on your FB post. But yea it just lets the SUM know where everything it while the caR is level so when it is not or when it hits a bump it can dampen accordingly. Takes in account the sensors on the struts and the rear and the ride height sensors
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I jus commented on your FB post. But yea it just lets the SUM know where everything it while the caR is level so when it is not or when it hits a bump it can dampen accordingly. Takes in account the sensors on the struts and the rear and the ride height sensors
Yep, thanks!

I'll post this for someone else.

Also, pulled these codes out. Someone help me with them. Some are scary like the SUM ones and the Stability function ones.



 

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As usual, I'll be that guy... How old is your battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As usual, I'll be that guy... How old is your battery?
Came with the car, so I have no clue, gonna check it in a min. If I recall correctly, I saw 14.something on little battery icon the VIDA on the laptop when we were scanning.
 

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Came with the car, so I have no clue, gonna check it in a min. If I recall correctly, I saw 14.something on little battery icon the VIDA on the laptop when we were scanning.
It's been said a million times, but if the battery has not yet been replaced and it tests out as failing, it will keep starting the caR but will start causing signal/sensor havoc. If you can't say with certainty how old the battery is, it's likely worth a quick stop at Advance Auto or equivalent for a free battery check.

EDIT: Also, if you find the battery is in need of replacement, use your phone to place an order online with whatever the going coupon code is and then have them install it free.
 

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There are many, many threads/posts over the years about having SUM calibration completed without first adjusting the headlamps down leading to such an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's been said a million times, but if the battery has not yet been replaced and it tests out as failing, it will keep starting the caR but will start causing signal/sensor havoc. If you can't say with certainty how old the battery is, it's likely worth a quick stop at Advance Auto or equivalent for a free battery check.

EDIT: Also, if you find the battery is in need of replacement, use your phone to place an order online with whatever the going coupon code is and then have them install it free.
Just tested out. Its giving out 12.55


There are many, many threads/posts over the years about having SUM calibration completed without first adjusting the headlamps down leading to such an issue.
Thats what's got me confused. I just adjusted my headlights with that little 6mm pin on the housing and they were already nearly all the way up, but I adjusted them to max height, I tested them on my garage door (I remember where they were before) and they were still low.
 

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You need to adjust the screw so that its pointing them even further down. I would say halfway between all the up and down. Re-run the calibration with the lights on, that means with the switch pointing up. Then you will be able to fix the lights with the screw.
 

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As I told you on FB, doing a SUM calibration with the headlights manually adjusted up messes everything up, so now turn them back down (even farther but to where they should have been before the SUM), 1-1/2 turns to 2 turns should be about right, and take it to a dealer.
There is a process they have to go through to get them back to where they should be, (no, I do not know it, maybe it's as simple as what Hanks said)!
 

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Just tested out. Its giving out 12.55
Is that under starting load or just sitting there? I'll let it die here and you can do whatever you want, but it reading ~12V just sitting there is not proof that it does not need replaced. Many have been in your exact shoes and found what I'm saying to be true once they get it tested. It's quick, easy & free and very good peace of mind. Just my $0.02. Cheers :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is that under starting load or just sitting there? I'll let it die here and you can do whatever you want, but it reading ~12V just sitting there is not proof that it does not need replaced. Many have been in your exact shoes and found what I'm saying to be true once they get it tested. It's quick, easy & free and very good peace of mind. Just my $0.02. Cheers
Ok thanks. I'll take it to Advanced Auto and get it tested soon.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

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Yep, thanks!

I'll post this for someone else.

Also, pulled these codes out. Someone help me with them. Some are scary like the SUM ones and the Stability function ones.



erase all of that crap and deal with anything that comes back.

DIM-0001 Mileage Manipulated....wow bravo never seen that one before!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
erase all of that crap and deal with anything that comes back.

DIM-0001 Mileage Manipulated....wow bravo never seen that one before!
That's what I'll be doing tomorrow when my Vida comes in.

I know! I'm scared that my car probably has 10000000miles

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 

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4C stupidity = Volvo stupidity

You need to adjust the screw so that its pointing them even further down. I would say halfway between all the up and down. Re-run the calibration with the lights on, that means with the switch pointing up. Then you will be able to fix the lights with the screw.
That's one way of dealing with it. I used to go through all that. Eventually I got smart and just left the headlights off! That way Volvo stupidity doesn't try to aim the headlights at the ground, which will use up all your manual adjustment range if you've already adjusted them up and then did a SUM re-cal with the headlights on without first aiming the headlights back down.

But to answer the thread question, a SUM (re-)calibration resets all the stored adaptations (current working assumptions about damping values/timings that supposedly work best with the caR's current 'configuration', based upon trying to avoid past mistaken assumptions), and starts over. This is considered necessary following strut replacement. Sometimes (for other changes) it seems more necessary than others (the SUM [mal]adapts to whatever 'configuration' it's faced with), but it's generally not a bad idea to clear out old/bad SUM assumptions any time the compliance of any part of the suspension system, including bushings, tires, serious change in tire pressures, sway bar end-link condition, etc changes. The only downsides are if it screws up the headlights, and also that the SUM will learn (and make mistakes) anew; it learns to avoid bad assumptions regarding damping values and timings by first making them, which means the suspension will be experimenting for the next 7+ drive cycles, and so you can expect it to do some ruder-than-usual things...

The headlight aiming kludge is just because the caR knows the rear ride height (from a 'heavily' loaded vehicle) via the SUM, because 4C needs to know that info anyway, so that's where it's found. I'm pretty sure there are some S60s that have "self-adjusting headlights" (Volvo-speak for "get ready to adjust them yourSELF") that do not have 4C, and in those cars the info goes more directly from rear axle position sensors to headlights, without any SUM involvement/interference.

PS: I wouldn't place too much trust in that free HF meter('s test leads).
 

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That's one way of dealing with it. I used to go through all that. Eventually I got smart and just left the headlights off! That way Volvo stupidity doesn't try to aim the headlights at the ground, which will use up all your manual adjustment range if you've already adjusted them up and then did a SUM re-cal with the headlights on without first aiming the headlights back down.
My headlights are already adjusted with the white screw, to point a bit higher than the calibrated setting, however I believe it's still too low or at least isn't perfect. Now, the question is, what shall be done here, if I want to complete the SUM calibration again.

1. Adjust the headlights with the screw to the lowest possible position, then run the Sum calibration and finally re-adjust the lights again with the screw?
or
2. Adjust the headlights with the screw to around halfway down between the current and the lowest possible position, then run the Sum calibration and finally re-adjust the lights again with the screw?
or
3. Measure the amount of turns between the bottom and the top stop position, divide by 2, set the lights to that position, then run the Sum calibration and finally re-adjust the lights if necessary.
A friend of mine, as shop owner, has his own headlight calibration tool. So, I believe we can even measure the difference between the bottom and top stop position and then calculate the midpoint.

First time I went with version 1, but after reading the comments here, got confused.
Clarification would be appreciated.
 

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It's not going to hurt trying out different ways. You just need to adjust it down because the auto motor adjustment is maxed out. You adjusting it down allows you have some headroom to bring it back up. There isn't a magic number of turns :)
 

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Now here's a question...both of my R's, I'm perfectly happy with how their suspensions are operating, but I'll be getting VIDA soon and I'm curious, is there any benefit to running a SUM cal? Am I just asking for trouble?
 

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Yea a better ride, maybe let the struts/shox last longer. Just aim your headlights down a little b4 and you'll be fine
 

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Thanks!
Decided not to do again the SUM calibration as the car was riding fine, at least to my taste. Instead we've adjusted the headlights with the machine. The difference is now night and day! Ok still not as good as my old S60 headlights were, but way better now compared to the old settings.
The left hl was pointing too far down before the correction and left-right position had to be adjusted too. Right side was nearly on spot, only a slight tweak had to be done on the up-down side.
All I need to remember now is to point them down in case if the Sum calibration needs to be done.
Appreciate the clarification given here.
 
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