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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After 382,000 miles, and the added incentive that my steering rack was shot, prompted me to combine the repair. I have a thing for tools, so after seeing all the PITA ways using skill saws and a lot of pounding, I purchased the Volvo install tool. I possibly didn't use it entirely correct, as it didn't come with a how to, nor could I find any, so I did what made sense.





The cutting cylinder never made it all the way thru the rubber, before bottoming out. However it made pressing the new bushing in, cake. With the need to do the steering rack also, it looked to me that the best approach was to drop the subframe. I wanted to show how the tool would have been used with the subframe installed, but with it out my dead shot hammer had all four removed in less than two minutes. Highly recommended approach.

I also installed IPD's inserts



Harbor Freight, got to love um, $59 and the engine is suspended.


Everything's out



A big Thank You to Mitch (Washdup), for coming up and spending the whole day, it's over a 160 mile round trip, and frankly I couldn't have gotten it done without his help.



Sorry about the angle, but the small round disk in the tool photo above slides in on top. If the subframe were in the car, once the bolt is removed, it drops enough for you to insert the disk. It drops down and centers on the metal tube.



This part worked perfect.





I think the most difficult, or at least time consuming part of this R&R, was re-mating the steering rack to the steering knuckle.



Everything is back in, but it was a long day, so I'll finish buttoning everything up tomorrow, and post a final report.
 

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Great work! Did you use a Volvo rack or something aftermarket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, everything is all buttoned up, but the test drive is going to have to wait another day or so. It appears that I'm having some issues bleeding the steering rack, and my body is saying enough for he day, Approaching this refreshed with a clear head, is the ticket for now.
 

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Nice work, and pics!

All you should have to do to bleed the rack is go lock to lock rapidly.
With the wheels off the ground...preferably
 

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Looks good Bob!! I'm curious to see what your impressions of the IPD inserts are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With the wheels off the ground...preferably
Boy I was hoping your were correct Jim, wheels off the ground and it turns lock to lock just fine, and you hear the pump doing it's pump thing, However, put the wheels back on the ground and the wheel is stiff and jerky and will not go lock to lock. I think I've go a bad aftermarket rack. Depression sets in.
 

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I wish you would have asked me about racks before you bought one.
What brand is it?
Groton used to sell a decent AMERICAN MADE rack, but in keeping with their price policies started selling junk Chinese racks about 2-3 years ago.
If it's a TRA rack it should be OK, perhaps something else in the install is incorrect?!
A rack that is not completely bled can/will make noise but should still steer fine.
Wheels off the ground you really shouldn't (or barely) hear anything as there is no resistence
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wish you would have asked me about racks before you bought one.
What brand is it?
Groton used to sell a decent AMERICAN MADE rack, but in keeping with their price policies started selling junk Chinese racks about 2-3 years ago.
If it's a TRA rack it should be OK, perhaps something else in the install is incorrect?!
A rack that is not completely bled can/will make noise but should still steer fine.
Wheels off the ground you really shouldn't (or barely) hear anything as there is no resistence
This is what I purchased, I have an email in to them, but no response yet. http://www.carsteering.com/partview/Volvo/V70/Power_Steering_Rack/80~00853_AN.html
 

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(sigh)
I used to pay about $250 (core exchange) for FWD (American made) racks from Groton that were GOOD!
Those were the good old days
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thoughts from the supplier is that I haven't bled the system enough, or I have a bad pump. Given that the pump was working with the old rack, I'll try additonal bleeding tonight,
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Looks like a fun install! Can't wait to hear your driving impressions either.
So much fun, I get to do it again! :facepalm: I've confirmed that the rack I installed is defective. So, I know what I'm doing next weekend....
 

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So much fun, I get to do it again! :facepalm: I've confirmed that the rack I installed is defective. So, I know what I'm doing next weekend....
Ouch. On AWD, you can do the rack without dropping the subframe. Just loosen the rear bolts to lower it a little, then when the steering knuckle & mount bolts are out, the rack can be rotated & finagled out the drivers side wheel well. That's the method I use. Perhaps on FWD, the rear mount bracket is in the way....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ouch. On AWD, you can do the rack without dropping the subframe. Just loosen the rear bolts to lower it a little, then when the steering knuckle & mount bolts are out, the rack can be rotated & finagled out the drivers side wheel well. That's the method I use. Perhaps on FWD, the rear mount bracket is in the way....
Yah, I've been reading up on the 'how-to' with the subframe intact, and the book says to lower the subframe, but no more than 10 to 15 MM, and removal is out the right side. At least everything is clean, always have to look on the bright side of things!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm in the middle of the replacement, and while taking a break, thought I'd update the thread.
As far as lowering it 10 to 15mm max, didn't really see the point or issue with going lower to give myself some elbow room. With the engine suspended, supporting the car by the chase, leaving the lower control arms attached, but removing the front engine mount bolts, and loosening the front subframe mounts, allows the subframe in the back to drop allowing fairly easy removal of the ram.




After sliding the rack in from the right side, with the subframe in this position, it was easy to align the steering knuckle engaging the ram, then partially raise the subframe to support the rack.







Now it's attach the hydraulic lines and button everything up.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, It's finally time for an update. When I replaced the defective rack, I decided I might as well but in a new pump as I was working with the original. The pump I bought came less reservoir but with pulley. Swapped out the reservoir from the old pump, using a new O'ring, and low and behold it was leaking at that interface, making it impossible to bleed the rack. Starting to like Groton more and more, I ordered another new pump from them, that said with reservoir only, and it came complete with reservoir and pulley!! It's taken the last three days of patient bleeding, but it's now working and at the shop for a complete alignment. Then I might be able to report on the subframe result.
 

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Woohoo congratulations Bob! This has been quite a long road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Woohoo congratulations Bob! This has been quite a long road.
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:ApplyBreakingRules/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:UseFELayout/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--> Thanks Mitch. Yes it has; but a lot was learned and shared. Your assistance was greatly appreciated and needed. The shop was backed up a bit with the holiday weekend, so I’ll be picking it up tomorrow night after work.
 
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