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Volvo S60 D5 MY2003, 163hp
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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People say they're great, but if the bushings are bad this isn't the right fix for it. I would personally rather go to solid subframe bushings.
 

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I have it and I very lake it , but there is no connection between problem with bushings and this kit. First of all fix the original bushings and only after use the kit. Kit improves steering feedback , but not fix it!
 

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Volvo S60 D5 MY2003, 163hp
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181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would like to buy bushings but here i cannot find them anywhere axcept in Volvo store and they are too expensive. Second problem is that i don't use any credit card so i cannot order from USA.
 

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Anything can happen, but steering issues are usually due to tie rods, not subframe bushings. also, are your LCAB bushings in good shape?
 

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Volvo S60 D5 MY2003, 163hp
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181 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tie rods are ok, i change them before maybe one month. And also i changed all bushings, (not on lower body), ball joints, engine mountings, axles, steering rack repared etc. What is happening is when i press gas pedal car goes on left, when i release pedal or driving on same speed, car pulling on right. Also sometimes i hear some strange clicking noise when start driving. Like something is moving down under engine. So only thing i didn`t change are lower body bushings, i think they are on car from manufacturing. Maybe the reason of bad bushings on whole car is that we have to many bumpers on roads in city, allmost every street have few of them and it`s BIG!!! Volvo garage selling lower body bushings for about 200$ 4 pieces. I think it` to much.
 

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I installed these in my 02 NA a few thousand miles ago due to some steering and tire wear issues on the RF tire. Didn't make a difference and didnt feel any "improved" feedback. My actual bushings are, I'm assuming, original so that might be why I didn't feel anything but take it how you will

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Installed mine last night. Three of my four factory bushings looked like new and one of them had slight wear (rear driver's side). The inserts were extremely difficult to get seated, could not get them to go in by any means other than tightening the bolt with the big washer and hoping for the best. Of the four, the only one that's seated properly is the one on the worn bushing. All the others make the big washer hang down to where it no longer touches the rubber "feet" of the factory mount. After the install I was ready to write a really bad review on iPd's website...

HOWEVER, once I took it for a spin I noticed enough of an improvement to want to keep them. Steering is much more precise and it almost feels like at lower speeds the turning circle is slightly better without the tires rubbing as much at full lock. There is no noticeable increase in harshness, and in fact hitting reflectors or expansion joints at highway speeds feels much more solid now and less jarring. Also no more sideways tire hop while hitting expansion joints on curving onramps.

So having said all of that, yes they make a difference but I don't like they way they fit so I will most likely be going with some delrin subframe bushings when I redo my front suspension.
 

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if front end suspension is otherwise in good shape and you're experiencing issues with wandering, i wouldn't discount the rear toe bars. The eccentric bolt that adjusts the toe of each side sets the thrust angle for the vehicle. I'd start with a 4 wheel alignment and go from there. The corner furthest out of spec will indicate where you need to focus.
 

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That would apply even to if only the front feels like it wanders? I guess the question is, are you referring to straight line wandering, or wandering under sideways wheel hop over expansion joints like charlesb2003 described? That I experience myself, but not in a straight line. If the insert kit improves the turning circle by any amount, that's enough to sell me on it!! I've seen boats with better turning radius just about.
 

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Even lowered I can whip a u-turn confidently in the 60, best thing I ever did was put spacers on all 4 corners.

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Just to clarify on the turning radius bit, I'm not really sure if it actually improves the turning radius or just allows me to turn closer to full lock before the tires start rubbing. The tires do still rub at full lock. No spacers, factory 17" Tucana wheels. Either way it sure does feel more solid at low speed cornering and high speed lane changing and curves as well.

If I had known what a difference these made I would have skipped them and gone straight to the delrin solid bushings. They do work but I really don't like how they fit in there. That's my next step up but I'll wait until I upgrade my shocks to Bilstein HD's.

Right now there are no obvious problems with any of my suspension components, even the lower control arm bushings look decent. Slight cracking but nothing bad. OEM struts are still holding on at 126k miles. Very surprised at that considering how horrible our streets are. Unless the previous owner changed them with OEM replacements at some point not long before I bought it. Anyway hard to justify spending Bilstein money until it at least needs it a little bit.
 

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The poly inserts are a great compromise between cost, east of installation and results. The inserts and solid strut brace mounts transformed my V70!
 

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I gotta fix my rear passenger side clunking before all else. I have brand new end links for all 4 corners already on hand, as well as a new rear strut mount just in case the end link isn't in the issue. I like the inserts in 1clean01's link. Pretty sweet!

What's an ideal size spacer to use? I'm stock height (for now) on the stock "17 Tethys wheels.
 

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The tethys are pretty high offset, like +49mm I believe. I run 15mm spacers on 40mm offset wheels and on eibach springs I rub only in the rear when really loaded.

What's crazy is with the offset the spacers create I could still go larger spacer or lower offset in the rear. The front is poking slightly and rear is still slightly tucked. Ideally I'd run 25mm spacers rear and 10mm front and it would be very flush all around.



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Mine seems pretty flush already (could just be the visual illusion). It sounds like 20mm spacers are my ticket. Dumb question now, how do spacers work on a hub where the lugs bolts are the studs?
 

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Once you lower it the flush/poke will be more obvious. Hold a ruler against the center cap and note the distance from the fender. That'll indicate how much you need to space.

If you get 10mm spacers, you need 10mm extended lug bolts, 15mm/15mm, 20/20 etc.

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