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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an '09 S40 2.4i with the High Performance audio system that I'm generally pleased with. Out of all the vehicles I've owned, it remains perhaps the best factory system I've experienced - especially once the equalizer settings were tweaked.

I am looking to add a small sub to fill in the bottom. I'm always willing to experiment a bit so I'm considering taking a self-powered unit intended for under-seat application and mounting on the deck in back of the rear seats (and under the window) from inside the trunk, so it would be hanging upside-down in the trunk but inconspicuous and very much out of the way. I would tap the rear speaker outputs from the factory amp to power the sub via the speaker-level inputs so other than running a dedicated power supply from the battery, installation and wiring connections should be pretty straight-forward.

So to my questions;

1. Has anyone tried mounting a sub this way?
2. Has anyone tapped the rear speaker outputs from the factory amp to power a sub? If so, is there a wiring diagram to identify them?
3. Any comments on setting up a sub this way?

TIA for any insight you can share!

PS - I've used an Infinity Basslink in the spare tire well of a Subaru Forester and it was quite impressive mounted there. Of course, I lost my spare tire storage in the process. I've considered doing the same in the S40 but would rather not lose the spare tire storage.
 

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so it would be hanging upside-down in the trunk but inconspicuous and very much out of the way.
Considering that this sub (like most/all small-footprint PnP-models) has a limited surface area, excursion and amp power, you may well be disappointed with the results. The trunk is somewhat isolated from the cabin so you'll lose several dB of efficiency and SPL. If you're even semi-serious with improving the audio system without giving up trunk space, I'd recommend an infinite baffle installation to the parcel shelf, keeping appropriate Thiele/Small parameters in mind when selecting the driver(s).

Many amps have both line level and speaker level inputs nowadays - as does the Kicker you linked - so if you prefer tapping on the rear speaker signal, it's possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Many amps have both line level and speaker level inputs nowadays - as does the Kicker you linked - so if you prefer tapping on the rear speaker signal, it's possible.
With no line-level outputs from the HU available, what other choices are there other than something like this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They did, but it's pricey and requires a software flash. I've read here that some have had no success making them work.
 

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With no line-level outputs from the HU available, what other choices are there other than something like this?
Any amp that also has speaker level 6...10V+ inputs in addition to a few hundred millivolt line level RCA. Try these for starters: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-FB0xr...puts/Speaker-Level-Inputs-Car-Amplifiers.html (just one of the first links on google for "car amp speaker level input" search). Personally I have slight preference towards JL Audio Class D amps, their NexD switching and compact footprint are really nice features, but any of these will work for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks to all for your input.

I believe I've narrowed this project down to using this powered sub: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P30010/Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P300-10.html?tp=114

Sitting on the floor it will fit perfectly in the cut-out behind the rear seats. It has positive reviews and the connections are on the left side, same side as the factory amp. Additionally, it uses Molex connectors so removing the sub would be easy.

Game plan would be to tap the rear speakers, which I currently have set for bass only in the HU equalizer. This way I can use the fader function on the HU to adjust the sub output (once I have the gain set properly on the sub).

Question - does anyone have a link to a wiring diagram for the High Performance audio amp? I need to identify those rear speaker wires to tap.


Edit: I found this thread which appears to answer my wiring question - https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?511673-High-Performance-audio-amp-speaker-wire-coloring
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Update;

As is usually the case with my projects, this one evolved into a more elaborate set-up. Here is what I'll be installing over the next week or so;

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVM500/Alpine-MRV-M500.html?tp=35834

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK4/Crutchfield-CK4.html

https://www.zenclosures.com/JL-Audio-12tw3-d4-Subwoofer-Box-p/jlaudio12tw3df.htm

https://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/ts-sw3002s4.html

The Alpine amp is mounted under the rear deck, a short distance from the factory amp which I will be tapping to drive it with the speaker-level input.

The Zenclosures box was ordered in light grey covering to match the trunk. In place of the expensive JL Audio 12TW3-D4 woofer, I'm using a Pioneer TS-SW3002S4 which requires a larger-than-normal cut-out like the JL. The Pioneer is a 4-ohm speaker with a 93db sensitivity, so the Alpine amp will drive it effortlessly and minimize the demand on the car's electrical system. I like that the down-firing enclosure will protect the woofer, take up a minimal amount of trunk space and provide a stealthy look. I plan on placing it against the rear seat, tethered to the center child seat anchor. To finish it off, I may order a trunk carpet mat in light grey.

I continue to be impressed with the High Performance audio system when it's fed a clean, dynamic signal. I've been taking high-definition FLAC files (purchased from HDTracks.com) that I use on my home system, converting them to Apple Lossless (ALAC) files and placing them on my iPhone using iTunes. Audiophile-grade CDs (such as those available from Sheffield Lab) ripped to ALAC also sound superb on the system, especially once the "hidden" equalizer settings were adjusted to my liking. I'm betting this sub will fill-out the bottom end nicely.

Along with my time, an assortment of hardware and a bottle of Ibuprofen for my aching 65 year old back, this sub setup will cost about $400. I'll be posting some photos of the install late next week once it's complete.
 

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Reading your posts I keep wondering what you would do if you didnt have option of aux-in, like all pre-FL cars and if you would settle on using FM transmitter, like poor ol myself... :p
joking aside, as It seem you are a bit of audiophile, just wondering, are you planning to dampen the door sills to eliminate rettling etc or your 09 car doesnt suffer from it? Mine sometimes emphasise its age on some low-level sounds by rattling random plastic parts, including handbrake lever button :}

on a total side-note, if you pay attention to music quality etc you would probably appreciate/notice sound systtem from Netflix's "Sharp Object". Even me, not being huge music-head, noticed its a bit of "pricey looking" :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I'm an old "2-channel" guy from the 70s. I think I lost at least half my hearing from shaking sheetrock loose in the house with two sets of AR-11 speakers stacked, a pair of Marantz 240 power amps and a Marantz 7C tube pre-amp (it was all vinyl in those days). My current system is a Denon PMA-2000IVR amp, a set of Polk LSi9 speakers and a SVS subwoofer, fed the best files I can find through a Music Fidelity V-LINK and V-DAC.

We purchased the S40 new for my wife and happily it has remained rattle and squeak free. I had an '07 Forester XT at the time that ended up slightly modified to run 12.9 @ 108 MPH in the quarter with a 4-speed automatic (275 HP/365 Lb-Ft at the wheels). I sold the Subie last year and inherited the S40 when we leased a 2018 Highlander for the wife. With all 170 crank HP on-tap, I affectionally refer to it as the Silver Turd.

The Subie had a full aftermarket sound system, including sound deadening in the doors and hatch area. Though the S40 is quieter than the sound-deadened Forester, I may end up doing the doors knowing the improvement it will make.

I'm also certain I will be totally deaf in the not-too-distant future. ;-/
 

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... Though the S40 is quieter than the sound-deadened Forester, I may end up doing the doors knowing the improvement it will make.

.... ;-/
...thats an interesting fact that I will now use against anti-volvo malcontents :p

out of curiosity - what type of music you feed to that high-fi equipment?
 
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