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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently attempted to drain the transmission fluid on my 2012 S60 T5. The drain plug immediately began to strip out. I was using the correct Torx-40 bit. I then took a screwdriver that spanned the longest points in the plug head and easily peeled off more of the metal. The plug head came apart so easily it felt like it was made of plastic. I am not going to be able to remove the plug with the Torx bit.

Has anyone else had this happen? Any suggestions on how to remove the plug?
 

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You need a bolt extractor. It is basically a reverse threaded screw that will grab into the metal when turning the direction of bolt removal.

I’m not advocating the below product - just attached so you can see what something that should help out will look like.

You may need to drill a pilot hole to use this kind of a tool. The example makes it look like one side of the included bits will do this, but I’m skeptical.

Stripped or Damaged Screw/Bolt Remover Set by Electronix Express https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KPHJ89/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DcEXCbYY3W2F0

Ps- put penetrating oil on the bolt threads and let sit for a while as well so the above task is easier to accomplish. This may have been where you went wrong in your first attempt.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I considered that options. If I can't get it free I was thinking of drilling off the head to leave access to the 17-mm outer plug. Any ideas if that would work?
 

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I think that would work. Be careful not to damage the inner hex when cutting out the inner bolt head.

What is the condition of the 17mm bolt in the trans pan? Is it frozen to the pan?

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I won't know the condition of the 17-mm bolt until I get the center plug out of the way. The car has 70,000 miles, and I am pretty sure these bolts have never been removed.
 

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The 17mm is a hex bolt surrounding the Torx-40 center bolt. The condition of the hex should be visible if you are looking at the Torx bolt.

You should also make sure that you can loosen the top fill bolt before you try to remove the drain bolt. This will allow you to drive the car if you can't get the fill bolt out. The last thing you want is a drained transmission that you can't fill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The 17-mm bolt looks fine, but the Torx head also looked fine until it disintegrated. The larger bolt looks a lot more solid, so I don't expect a problem with it. I won't know if it is frozen to the pan until I get the smaller plug out of the way. Good point with the fill bolt. I had the same thought, so I loosened it before I attempted the drain bolts. I had no problem loosening it.
 

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The exact same thing happened to my inner plug on my XC90 tranny, I've got an unbelievable (to most people) collection of screw extractors in every conceivable flavor. Armed with plenty of artillery, I crawled under and began with the simplest approach; a centerpunch. I tapped the punch into the outside edge, and then swung the punch back and tapped some more in the direction of rotation for removal.. It actually came out very easily. It surprised me because I had tightened the plug rather well while going through the oil change protocol. That plug is a stocked item at the parts counter in San Diego, but the crush washer for the bigger outer plug is not. Dealers don't stock parts if they don't move. That is one soft plug with a poor fitting Torx recess. I was using Snap-On Torx sockets, and tried several other brands that I have. The new plug didn't start out with a tight Torx fit, either.
For those interested in why I have an exceptional extractor collection, I started using and collecting screw extractors in 1969, when the after-market air conditioning on 140 series, B-20 engines snapped the crank pulley bolts on a regular basis, and then the bolts that mounted the A.C. compressor to the head. Fun times.
 

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i thought that i was the only one that did that. I've been wrenching on cars of all sorts since the late 60s and my first FUBAR drain plug removal was on my XC60. Good to know that I'm not the only one.
 

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I paid the local Volvo dealer to service the transmission on my S80 a week after purchase, 2012. Charged me ~$300 for a drain/fill using the Volvo fluid, 8 liters. Well the car sometimes would drop out of gear on hills. I went back to Volvo twice while under warranty and paid to have them check the fluid level. Was told OK. Never felt comfortable with the occasional gear drop. So, after warranty over, and I'm unemployed, I decide to do another drain/fill. Little torx head immediately stripped. I ordered new drain and level bolt. Took a pipe wrench to the drain plug, ~ 1.19" outside diameter. Upon examination, the marks I just created on the bolt outside diameter were nice and shiny. In addition were marks which were corroded. I guess the Volvo mechanic did not follow the level checking procedure. It took 28 ounces more fluid to start to drip than what I drained. No more gear drops with correct fluid level. I used Mobil 3309.
 

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The Volvo part numbers to repair this:
31325038 -- Transmission Drain Plug Tube (outer piece)
30713220 -- Aluminum crush washer for tube

30713219 -- Transmission Drain Plug
1233068 -- o-ring for plug

This is a 2-piece, fill-level assuring drain plug system. The outer tube screws into the tranny pan, is about 3" long, and when the smaller drain plug (torx 40) is removed, it drains any excess fluid out to the correct fill height. Hint: you overfill with Tranny Fluid (1 gallon), warm up the engine/tranny to operating temp., then remove the smaller plug to drain the excess. This fill procedure sets the correct fluid volume. The torque specs are published somewhere. Don't overtighten the plug...it's sealed with an o-ring.

It is wise to loosen the tranny fill plug up top (Torx 55, have to remove airfilter box to get access to it) before committing to drain the old fluid out....that assures you can refill the tranny.

Specialized socket wrench tips needed:
T40 torx tip
17mm allen wrench tip
T-55 torx tip
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I paid the local Volvo dealer to service the transmission on my S80 a week after purchase, 2012. Charged me ~$300 for a drain/fill using the Volvo fluid, 8 liters. Well the car sometimes would drop out of gear on hills. I went back to Volvo twice while under warranty and paid to have them check the fluid level. Was told OK. Never felt comfortable with the occasional gear drop. So, after warranty over, and I'm unemployed, I decide to do another drain/fill. Little torx head immediately stripped. I ordered new drain and level bolt. Took a pipe wrench to the drain plug, ~ 1.19" outside diameter. Upon examination, the marks I just created on the bolt outside diameter were nice and shiny. In addition were marks which were corroded. I guess the Volvo mechanic did not follow the level checking procedure. It took 28 ounces more fluid to start to drip than what I drained. No more gear drops with correct fluid level. I used Mobil 3309.
The transmission fluid spec for the 2012 S60 is JWS 3324, not 3309.
 

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Same thing happen but when i was changing rear brakes on my s60 2017. The Ebrake motor screw just stripped with almost no force. Its like some of those screws are defective from the factory . Had to use the extractor as well to get it out and put new one in. However on my s90 2018 those screws are good and looks like made from different material .
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I finally had time to do the job. I first tried a bolt extractor. I had a really tough time trying to get the hole drilled into the bolt, but then I couldn't get the extractor to bite. I got tired of dealing with it and then just put some adjustable pliers on the outer 17-mm bolt and cranked it off. It turned quite easily. I replaced the outer and inner bolts, the o-ring on the inner plug, and the crush washer for the outer bolt.
 

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Transmission crush washer part# 30713220, why so expensive? It is that different from the Oil crush washer?
 
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