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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the drivers side strut tower. Can I just put a longer bolt through it and put a nut under it? Or is more finesse action needed?

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Story time:

I've been lazy for months and my car hasn't moved since a hard to diagnose engine problem and belt noise that wasn't obvious by a scan. I took my car to the shop and they told me my timing belt was cracked so I had them replace it as that is a job I had no interest in doing it. But when they didn't have a clear diagnosis for the rest of the issue I decided it was best to bring it home as they were assuming it was in the MAF sensor or throttle body area but weren't confident in their diagnosis. And was thinking I had a ground loop or grounding issue as well.

So I've changed out the front oxygen sensor as I'd seen that off and on for a few months, ground strap as it completely broke off when I tried moving it to see how bad the fraying was, cleaned the CEM, pushed in the firewall vacuum line which I don't think was all the way in, and replaced the MAF.

Lately it's been fire stall with scans showing me rotating set of codes between the knock sensor, camshaft position sensor, or ECM faulty signal. I have an Icarsoft so I'm seeing ECM, not P codes but I found a vida sheet that said those codes can also be triggered by engines that had been run start/stop which was exactly what I was doing.

The instantaneous ignition and stall was immediate with the rpms jumping to 2k and they dying without a sputter. No cha-cha-cha before ignition. I started to wonder if I wasn't getting fuel. And now I'm confident that when I cleaned the CEM I didn't jam the fuel pump relay all the way in and I replaced the fuse as well.

This morning it and it struggled for about 20-30 seconds before thinking it was overheating. When I was taking the battery out I decided to check the ground bolts and the 10mm easily tightened one of them. I didn't feel stripped but I could tell something was off. I backed it off and it brought threads up with it. When it was hand tight I could still move one of the wires.
 

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You could drill and tap it to the next size up, metric or SAE. Or bolt the wire down to one of the other ground locations on that same strut tower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The previous bolt was slightly tapered and the new M6-1 bolt I picked up at the hardware store this afternoon is holding taking advantage of previously unused threads.

Unforantely it wasn't the cure. I'm wondering if my 9 month old alternator is a dud. That'll be my next course of action.
 

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I had a remanufactured Bosch alternator go bad in less than a year. Good thing I bought it at FCP Euro.
 
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