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Discussion Starter #1
I am one of those apparently rare Volvo owners who LIKES the automatic stop/start feature, and who does not fear that it impugns my masculinity or hero-driverhood. Though it rarely worked, when it did the feature, at least in our car, operated seamlessly, and as far as I could tell had no negative features. After all, why should I sit for anywhere from 30 seconds to two minutes at a stoplight burning gas? That's just stupid. (I understand that there are those who feel stopping and starting the engine frequently can have an adverse effect on the machinery, but I'm trusting that Volvo knows what it is doing. If in the next few years we start seeing evidence that this isn't the case, I'll change my mind.)

But it rarely worked.

I have now fixed that by installing a Ctek battery charger/monitor, on the advice of several members of this forum. Stop/start now works 100 percent of the time, just as it should. The problem, apparently, was that driving the car every two or three days on relatively short trips--occasional 150-milers to/from Newark Airport--simply didn't keep the small accessory battery charged sufficiently to run the stop/start. The Ctek has totally fixed that.

Ctek is a Swedish company (though the actual units are made in China, not surprisingly), so I have to assume their chargers interface well with Volvos.
 

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Count me in the minority of owners who like the Volvo stop-start system.

A Battery charger is probably the only option to have the Start-Stop working without fail.

Even my daily 70+ miles driving isn't enough to maintain charge. I have to go on 2-300+ mile drives for it to work for the next week or so, and then it's again back to non-functional.
 

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Further to your observations, I have been monitoring the battery charge current in real time on my 2016 Ford. It takes hours of continuous driving to fully charge the battery (AGM type). My daily, short commute can easily cause the battery state of charge to stay under 80%.

I think this shortens the battery lifetime. I connect a smart charger about once a month.
 

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I connect the Ctek whenever the car isn't being driven.
Glad that seems to be a solution. I’ve only experienced a couple of non-activation of Start/Stop, but it usually starts working again spontaneously.

Ufy is fairly low mileage, at 12k now after the April ‘18 manufacture date. Majority of my trips are only about 20 miles so a bit surprised that I haven’t had more “failures”. Perhaps west coast Volvos just maintain a better charge...lol.

Hope the Brown Bomber is still entertaining you.
 

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What else does this battery power and where is it located in the car? I've noticed that my start/stop has stopped working. Don't really care but just wondered if I need to charge the battery for other items powered from it.
 

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That very well might be the case. MI winters don't duck around!
😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣

Agreed! I’m originally from northern Iowa. When people in the Seattle area complain about our “awful” weather I just laugh and laugh!

45 degrees with a bit of mist is pretty tough though. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's located in the engine compartment at the right rear, looking from the front of the car. You can see the red plastic cover for the positive terminal. It's a little thing, and you can't really see the battery itself. I don't know what else it powers, and it may power only the stop/start system.

If you normally leave your car unlocked, like in a garage, there are a number of vampire draws on the car's electronics, and these will slowly run the battery down. Locking the car turns off these draws.
 

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Interestingly enough, in our former MY 2015.5 Drive-E V60, the auto s/s had quit for a couple of months, so a visit to dealer whilst still under warranty (ca. 43000mi.) resulted in a new main battery replacement, as the tech found sub-optimal charge (no lo-batt warning), but did say that the auxiliary battery was “fine”. FWIW, the s/s never failed after that, and the aux batt never replaced up to 57K, when we gave the car up.
 

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Thanks for passing along this lesson learned about the start/stop feature. I too will drive low miles locally and the occasional long drive on weekends. I like the idea of this feature and I don't mind a a fraction of a second delay off the line. I'll take you advice and hook up a trickle charger once a month and top that aux battery up to full during long periods o non-use. Thanks for the tip.
 

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It's located in the engine compartment at the right rear, looking from the front of the car. You can see the red plastic cover for the positive terminal. It's a little thing, and you can't really see the battery itself. I don't know what else it powers, and it may power only the stop/start system.

If you normally leave your car unlocked, like in a garage, there are a number of vampire draws on the car's electronics, and these will slowly run the battery down. Locking the car turns off these draws.
Didn’t know about the locked/unlocked battery situation. Thanks!
 

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I am one of those apparently rare Volvo owners who LIKES the automatic stop/start feature, and who does not fear that it impugns my masculinity or hero-driverhood. Though it rarely worked, when it did the feature, at least in our car, operated seamlessly, and as far as I could tell had no negative features. After all, why should I sit for anywhere from 30 seconds to two minutes at a stoplight burning gas? That's just stupid. (I understand that there are those who feel stopping and starting the engine frequently can have an adverse effect on the machinery, but I'm trusting that Volvo knows what it is doing. If in the next few years we start seeing evidence that this isn't the case, I'll change my mind.)

But it rarely worked.
Hear, Hear!
 

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I am one of those apparently rare Volvo owners who LIKES the automatic stop/start feature, and who does not fear that it impugns my masculinity or hero-driverhood. Though it rarely worked, when it did the feature, at least in our car, operated seamlessly, and as far as I could tell had no negative features. After all, why should I sit for anywhere from 30 seconds to two minutes at a stoplight burning gas? That's just stupid. (I understand that there are those who feel stopping and starting the engine frequently can have an adverse effect on the machinery, but I'm trusting that Volvo knows what it is doing. If in the next few years we start seeing evidence that this isn't the case, I'll change my mind.)

But it rarely worked.

I have now fixed that by installing a Ctek battery charger/monitor, on the advice of several members of this forum. Stop/start now works 100 percent of the time, just as it should. The problem, apparently, was that driving the car every two or three days on relatively short trips--occasional 150-milers to/from Newark Airport--simply didn't keep the small accessory battery charged sufficiently to run the stop/start. The Ctek has totally fixed that.

Ctek is a Swedish company (though the actual units are made in China, not surprisingly), so I have to assume their chargers interface well with Volvos.
I was quite skeptical about the Start/Stop feature, but hey, that’s just part of my Scot’s heritage.

So, most of the time, I got into the habit of disabling it whenever I started the car. Then last fall I decided to attend a charity car event in Seattle. It was a nice day, so instead of using a ferry across Puget Sound, and took the long way ‘round by driving through Tacoma. Filled the tank about five miles from home, and cruising the freeway in light traffic I took a route to take me directly to the waterfront area. The old Highway 99 viaduct was in the process of demolition, and I was bit early getting town, and thought it might be interesting to see the progress of that eyesore coming down. What I’d not counted on was the fact that a Princess Cruise line mega ship was disembarking about 5000 passengers on the waterfront. In the mix of 5000 passengers, a few hundred Ubers, a herd of tour busses, and various private cars it was the nastiest traffic jam I’d ever encountered. It took about 45 minutes to go slightly over a mile.

When I’d exited the freeway the mpg readout indicated a touch over 31 mpg. As soon as I immersed myself in that jam, I turned on the Start/Stop system. When I parked the car the mileage indicator read a smidge under 31 mpg. It works seamlessly.

Sign me up coach. I’m a fan...
 

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Thanks for this tip, porschie356. I put less than 5K miles on my V90 last year. Couple of road trips, but otherwise, it'll sit for days and then be driven for just short trips around town.

Interestingly enough, in our former MY 2015.5 Drive-E V60, the auto s/s had quit for a couple of months, so a visit to dealer whilst still under warranty (ca. 43000mi.) resulted in a new main battery replacement, as the tech found sub-optimal charge (no lo-batt warning), but did say that the auxiliary battery was “fine”...
This was my experience, too. Main battery replaced about a year ago at first annual scheduled maintenance service visit for same reason as yours. Unfortunately, within three months of replacement, s/s stopped working again, except for a brief period after long road trip.

...If you normally leave your car unlocked, like in a garage, there are a number of vampire draws on the car's electronics, and these will slowly run the battery down. Locking the car turns off these draws.
I, too, have been unaware of this. Thanks for the guidance.
 

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Seems absurd locked vs unlocked would cause additional battery draw. Should be timer based. I know my slow ass Sensus doesn't boot up any faster being unlocked. Don't know what else the car could have running.
 

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Will the 12 volt trickle charged I keep my gas powered Honda generator topped off with do the job. It has a set of mini clamps that might work. What are the terminals like?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Mini clamps will certainly work. They're what the Ctek has. To see what the terminals are like, open your hood. (The release is on the left sidewall, next to the driver's left shin. Pull it toward you. You'll hear a bell chime three times.) The positive terminal is under the only red plastic cover under the hood and is a standard post, about five-eighths of an inch in diameter. For the negative clamp, select any good chassis ground, bare of paint and not sheetmetal. A solid bolt or stud is best.

Your Honda-generator trickle charger should certainly work, but I think that's about all it'll do--trickle charge. I don't think it will really monitor the battery or desulfate it or do any of the other thing a good Ctek charger/monitor will do, and the Ctek is only a hundred-odd dollars, as I remember. Considering the value of your car, it's a minimal but potentially important investment. Available on Amazon, and there's a link somewhere above.
 
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