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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I have a question about the R model since i'm just about to buy one. First though, this is mostly aimed at stock R owners, since i will never tune or build the car for racing. It has a Stage 1 tune in place and that's where i will keep it at for as long as i own the car. I've had turbocharged vehicles before and i'm not interested in tuning them any further than the chip. So while i appreciate any information i can get, people who build their vehicles will obviously have an entirely different view on this than me. I've been driving a two-decade old deadbeat BMW for five years now, and it eats about 2000 dollars a year (some years more) in repairs alone. Meaning i have sunk the price of a second-hand but modern car in five years into manpower and spare parts for the old turd.

So, could any stock R owner estimate the annual maintenance budget for their cars? Or what it was before you tuned it, if you have done so. My mileage averages around 12k a year, and the car i'm considering has done under 90k so i figure i can get decent life out of it still. In contrast my BMW has done 200k miles, and to get it properly going again i would have to spend another two thousand right on the spot. Might as well get rid of it.

Fuel consumption of the R isn't really a concern, as my 3 litre straight 6 isn't exactly economic either. Repair costs are more important. Recent maintenance done to the R i'm looking at:
- Timing belt and water pump.
- Tires.
- Front brake discs and pads.
- Front shocks.
- Angle gear has been sealed as soon as it started leaking some years ago. No problems since.
- Something with the clutch, maybe the slave cylinder. I haven't yet seen the documents.
- Plus random parts which i've no idea how to translate... Some wheel bearings.

I'm already refusing to believe any car could do worse than 2000 bucks a year, unless you abuse it of course. I'm a fairly careful driver, i never launch the car nor do i do donut rings or whatever you call them. Some spirited driving, sure, why else would one want an R...

Thanks for any input.
 

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Well I spent $1200 in my first year on shocks and tires, and next week I'm probably spending another $1200 on shocks and coils... However, what I'm doing should keep things ok for another 120k miles...

$2k a year is a good rule of thumb. Really the big ticket items are shocks, AG collar, clutch, timing belt, and coils... Each of those 120k mile items about.
 

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Well I spent $1200 in my first year on shocks and tires, and next week I'm probably spending another $1200 on shocks and coils... However, what I'm doing should keep things ok for another 120k miles...

$2k a year is a good rule of thumb. Really the big ticket items are shocks, AG collar, clutch, timing belt, and coils... Each of those 120k mile items about.
Just to add/comment on the list:

PCV System
Suspension (Struts, bearings, seats, bushings, etc)
Timing Belt & Water Pump
Ignition Coils & Plugs
Clutch/Slave Cylinder
Angle Gear
Fluid Changes
Parking Brake Shoes

Probably others I'm forgetting.

I would guess over the course of the years you would find the maintenance to be less than $2k a year, but you'll have real expensive years and easy years, so you'll have to be prepared for that.
 

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check for the AWD haldex unit, its a 1000$ computer under the car that engages awd system when you need it, mine was toasted at 95k miles.
 

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If you're looking to save money on maintenance, look elsewhere. I put away $200/month for my car and that barely covers all the maintenance items listed above. Although I did buy snow tires, so that was a little extra.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Some seem to get away with less, some don't. My yearly mileage is fairly low, and having some of the most expensive maintenance just done to the car before i buy it, have me thinking i'll possibly have some care-free miles ahead at least for a while. Sure, anything could come up, but it's good to have them replaced already. I can do some work on it myself, i have basic tools and knowledge but replacing the clutch for example is beyond me, and i'd have to use an independent mechanic.

And, of course, not tuning the car or abusing it means less stress everywhere. Including the driver. Still, it sucks to hear the R might be just as expensive as a 20-year old sedan with 200k miles on it. It breaks down a LOT, pretty much whether i drive it or not.
 

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I made it almost 5 years of relativity maintenance free miles, then I toasted the motor, so YMMV, lol.

My adventure is documented in the link below if you want to get an idea of what you might be in for if you make the plunge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks Stealthy, looks interesting! You never know what happens with cars, i didn't mean my initial question to suggest i was after a maintenance-free car. More like, if i'm spending 2k a year on repairs alone on twenty-year old wheels, i might as well spend the same or possibly/hopefully even less on a car half the age and mileage, and more enjoyable as well (AWD, more power etc). If the R doesn't fit the bill, i'll just end up trading it for something else further down the road.

At least spare part availability seems pretty good even in my country, and i can always get the more expensive stuff shipped from USA since some parts seem cheaper over there.

edit: Was your car stock when that happened? I've been reading about cracked cylinder walls etc but i would figure that's not really a concern for a stock or just a chiptuned engine.

edit 2: ....Reading more about the cracked sleeves. How do i verify this on a test drive? I will be able to get under the car to check for leaks, but that won't do anything against a cracked cylinder. I can check the coolant, but what if the seller puts in new coolants the day before the test drive? Also, the car won't eat through enough of the stuff to be noticeable on a test drive, considering i'll start up cold and the coolant level is always higher when warm: impossible to check from there.

Ideas? It might turn out the maintenance costs won't be putting me off, but this could.
 

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The guys who have lived it can weigh in better, but I think if you start it cold you could/should see white smoke coming out of the exhaust if there's a crack.
 

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The R will be reliable as long as you're willing to fix things immediately. Most of the stuff that breaks will not stop the car from driving, it's just not necessarily smart to drive it with those things broken.
 

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Sounds like the major things have been dealt with for the current life of that R. I bought mine at right about 90k as well, did my own timing belt right away and over the last 20k have only replaced a battery, wheel bearing, did an alignment and new tires. But like said above, some cars are just luckier than others. Sounds like we have same driving habits as well, so I would say the R could be a great car for you, I've loved having it and it has given me no trouble... yet.
 
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