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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed that my rack has started to leak and leave a little fluid under the car and on the ground. The way I see it, I have a few options. 1. Buy new (this is not going to happen, can't justify the cost) 2. Buy a reman, rock auto has two ac delco units that look nice or 3. Buy used, I have a line on a low mileage 9xxxx mile unit for a reasonable price. Do any of you have any experience with reman units, good, bad, or indifferent?
 

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I noticed that my rack has started to leak and leave a little fluid under the car and on the ground. The way I see it, I have a few options. 1. Buy new (this is not going to happen, can't justify the cost) 2. Buy a reman, rock auto has two ac delco units that look nice or 3. Buy used, I have a line on a low mileage 9xxxx mile unit for a reasonable price. Do any of you have any experience with reman units, good, bad, or indifferent?
Where is it leaking from?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Appears to be leaking around the top where the large rubber grommet is.
 

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Sorry to hear of the trouble.

Just curious, do you plan on doing the steering rack replacement yourself?
As someone who just replaced the steering rack a month or two ago, I can attempt to add some insight. The point of adding the insight is that the answer is not as clear/obvious as you might think.

To start, the "compatibility" aspect of the steering racks are actually quite confusing. Why? Well half-way through MY '05, Volvo actually starting using a different steering rack which required an upgraded steering column shaft that connects to the rack. Late 05s/06s/07s all share the same steering rack (and power steering system), IIRC.
To make things worse, all the reman sellers will claim that their specific rack is "guaranteed" to fit your car. I had a local indy shop in Cleveland do the job, and we went through ordering THREE different racks until we finally found the right one. Believe me, it was a huge PITA, and luckily the shop owner paid all of the (expedited) shipping back and forth for the incompatible racks.
Additionally, unless you have a tool to simulate the pressure of the PS fluid to test the integrity of the seals - it can be a big waste of time installing it and realizing that the reman company did shoddy work, yes - you will get a replacement under warranty, but you seriously lose big on the time it took to install and un-install / drain fluid / ship back etc etc etc...

I, too, believed that I had several ways of going about changing the rack - but watched as they failed one-by-one.

My recommendation would be to do what I ended up doing, take it to a shop - and don't bring them a reman rack, as I doubt they will offer a warranty on "your" parts. Instead... let them source the part (effectively shifting the compatibility liability over to them, perfect!). I ended up having mine installed with a 60 day warranty for like $850 or so. (included PS fluid and alignment - don't forget!!)

If you are hell bent on doing it yourself, I don't have much advice and can only wish you the best of luck finding a compatible rack on the first try.

Hope this helps a little..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Than you Jm I believe mine is a late rack ( replaced the coupler about a year ago). I have so much money in this car now, I am trying to minimize the bleeding hence the reason for doing it myself. It almost sounds like the used rack may be the way to go due to the compatibility issues you mention.

Is there a rebuild kit (have rebuilt one before) or rebuilder that I can send my rack too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did it come complete with the speed servo? Do you know the part numbers for the seals for the lines?
Thanks
 

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I sent them my leaking rack and they sent it back looking and working like brand new. So I didn't need lines or the speed servo thing. I did replace o-rings.
 

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I'm just getting my car back on the road after almost 2 years. Prior to putting it to the side I was trying to fix my hard steering problem and hoping it wasn't the rack. I have no leaks, and the stiff feeling is constant in both directions, no sway when going straight. Other things were replaced as needed. I've done both U-joints, the dust boot ring, power steering pump, updated reservoir, fluid change, the sensor by the brake pedal...
I've been searching for any kind of information on the step motor that plugs into the rack right near the steering column. Vida doesn't mention it at all, only how to replace what they call the solenoid (what the column attaches to). For $150 bux I might swap it out and see what it does...
 

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Swap that solenoid by the brake pedal. Also, check your connection at the rack. There's a blue colored connector down there, make sure that it's actually plugged in. It's a tight area down by the rack and there's a lotta stuff that can get tangled/broken/improperly routed, thus interfering with some of the suspension.
 

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Swap that solenoid by the brake pedal. Also, check your connection at the rack. There's a blue colored connector down there, make sure that it's actually plugged in. It's a tight area down by the rack and there's a lotta stuff that can get tangled/broken/improperly routed, thus interfering with some of the suspension.
I've swapped that solenoid. The wired connection you're referring to is off the rack, not the solenoid, right? If so, that's the wire coming off the part I'm thinking about replacing.
 

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