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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've started to notice a clunk on occasion during momentum changes (typically when starting from stop). I thought it would be an engine mount or transmission mount, but they looked fine. The upper engine mount (rectangular type) seemed very loose though. How can you tell if the lower transmission mount is going?<p>However, I did notice that the steering ball joint bushing seemed no good. I can rotate the joint easily and hear metal on metal contact at the extremes of rotation.<p><IMG SRC="http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww150/cmpisfun/IMAGE_081.jpg" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Steering ball joint bushing (cmpisfun)

From the picture it doesn't look too bad<p>But when you from lock to lock (left to right) with the car just idling do you hear a popping sound?<p>
 

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Re: Steering ball joint bushing (cmpisfun)

AKA "tie rod end" <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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I was just checking mine and felt the same thing. Could rotate it and feel it click against metal. <p>After work I'll go listen for popping sounds when turning.. I assume that's a bad sign.
 

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Re: (zabto)

The momentum change might warrant the upper engine mount and tranny mount being replaced first. the lower mount is harder to tell if it's shot, but they don't last long. How many miles on the car? Also, if the upper engine mount "looks" bad, then it probably is at this point. Your best bet is to by the round mount bracket and poly bushing from IPD, it's a much better design than the square one.<p>Replace those 2 parts first, and then start messing with the steering. I would change the end-links first, put IPD heavy duty links on, you'll be happy. Then ball joint, and then tie rod...in increasing expense.
 

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i have the same issue. <p>i took a look at it this weekend when i was switching from winter to summer wheels...didn't notice anything that was obviously bad. also didn't have play in the wheel when i gave it a yank while it was on the jack. <p>upper engine mount and trans mount are new on my car.
 

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Re: (T5 for Life)

I was under the impression that the ball joint was part of the tie rod. Are they separate, but attached pieces?
 

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Re: (zabto)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>zabto</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was under the impression that the ball joint was part of the tie rod. Are they separate, but attached pieces? </TD></TR></TABLE><p>The tie rod end has a ball joint at its end. However said ball joint isn't a separately serviceable apart from the tie rod end. If said ball joint is found to be bad the entire tie rod end is replaced as one unit.<p>The term "ball joint" is usually reserved for an individually serviceable ball joint component which is typically found in the suspension--not the steering.<p>Speaking of the suspension, each of the two front lower control arms has one ball joint at its outboard end securing the wheel hub assembly and a pair of bushings at its inboard side which are secured to the unibody--in this case the unibody's front subframe. The ball joint and both bushings are all individually serviceable components which means that when it comes time to rebuild the front suspension, each of the original lower control arms can be fitted with a new ball joint (which is bolted in place) and a pair of new bushings (which are pressed into place) to save some coin instead of buying a pair of new complete lower control arms outright.
 

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Re: (volvofla)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>volvofla</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Axle Ping</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Ah. How'd we miss that one.<p>Good call.
 

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The ball joints of the tie rod ends should not be affected by momentum changes front to back, but would be from side to side. Easiest way to check the play in a tie rod end is to raise the front of a the vehicle off the ground, but leave the wheels on the car. put your hands at the 9 oclock and 3 oclock positions, and alternately push and pull on the wheel quickly. If you hear a loud popping or notice the wheel moves with no resistance than the ball joint is toast.<p>I agree with axle ping though. There is a updated "washer" to put between the axle and hub bearing, plus new bolts with rubber cushions on them to help quiet the noise. Also, volvo suggests using their "metal glue" on the splines of the axles to help keep them in place to completely stop the ping. I disagree with last portion since eventually the axles will need to be removed to be relaced or for other repairs. The metal glue does exactly what it implies and can make it extremely difficult to get them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (Turb04S60)

Some good info bouncing around here! Thanks guys!<p>1. My car has 125k miles on it right now. No suspension/steering work done since around 75k when the front struts were replaced (replaced one rear wheel bearing at 120k).<p>2. I've already taken care of axle ping with the XC90 parts (and the fix definitely works <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> )<p>3. I don't think the clunk is from the tie rod ends (no odd noises at all during rotation of the steering wheel to and from lock to lock position in either direction). I'm suspecting either the upper engine mount, lower engine mount, or the spring seats. It seems to be getting worse (almost happens every time from stop to go), and I think I've noticed the clunking over bumps/potholes on occasion as well recently.<p>4. As T5 for Life suggested, I think I'm just going to start off by replacing the upper engine mount and lower transmission mount (cheap and simple fixes that are probably due anyways).<p>5. I've got to perform the spring seat/strut mount test too with a wrench. If those are bad, I should probably replace the struts as well due to the work involved. Do the plastic covers just pop off the strut towers under the hood?<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by cmpisfun at 7:24 PM 4-20-2009</i>
 

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Re: (Turb04S60)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Turb04S60</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ball joints of the tie rod ends should not be affected by momentum changes front to back, but would be from side to side. Easiest way to check the play in a tie rod end is to raise the front of a the vehicle off the ground, but leave the wheels on the car. put your hands at the 9 oclock and 3 oclock positions, and alternately push and pull on the wheel quickly. If you hear a loud popping or notice the wheel moves with no resistance than the ball joint is toast.<p>I agree with axle ping though. There is a updated "washer" to put between the axle and hub bearing, plus new bolts with rubber cushions on them to help quiet the noise. Also, volvo suggests using their "metal glue" on the splines of the axles to help keep them in place to completely stop the ping. I disagree with last portion since eventually the axles will need to be removed to be relaced or for other repairs. The metal glue does exactly what it implies and can make it extremely difficult to get them out.</TD></TR></TABLE><p><br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> perfect info
 

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Re: (cmpisfun)

If you have noise in the front end, and the tie rod ends are not the culprit, check not only the engine mounts, but the sway bar links, they tend to wear like crazy, and they will make noise that sounds like what you are experiencing. <p>The link is the vertical rod just to the right of the red circled tie rod end in your picture. The two ball joints are not very strong, and IPD makes good money selling well made replacements. Well worth it, I had the same noise, and these solved it (but later, I had the upper spring mount go bad, and that is another story, or another post.)
 

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Re: Steering ball joint bushing (vizwiz)

The play being described is normal. The joint will rotate if you grab it and twist it.<p>To test if the joint really is bad do the following. With the wheel on grab the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and try to move the wheel back and fourth. If you can feel clanking then there is a bad joint (either inner or outer). That should diagnose the majority of failures.
 

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Re: (cmpisfun)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>cmpisfun</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>5. I've got to perform the spring seat/strut mount test too with a wrench. If those are bad, I should probably replace the struts as well due to the work involved. Do the plastic covers just pop off the strut towers under the hood?<p><br><i>Modified by cmpisfun at 7:24 PM 4-20-2009</i></TD></TR></TABLE><p>yes, use a flat blade screwdriver and pry them off...easy.
 

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Re: (wizzard_al)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>wizzard_al</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have noise in the front end, and the tie rod ends are not the culprit, check not only the engine mounts, but the sway bar links, they tend to wear like crazy, and they will make noise that sounds like what you are experiencing. <p>The link is the vertical rod just to the right of the red circled tie rod end in your picture. The two ball joints are not very strong, and IPD makes good money selling well made replacements. Well worth it, I had the same noise, and these solved it (but later, I had the upper spring mount go bad, and that is another story, or another post.)</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Agree that the sway bar bushings could be the culprit.
 
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