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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thanks to two spun rod bearings and toasting a new K24, I'm now working on a bulletproof rebuild project for my 2004 S60R MT.

The oiling system ended up being the weak link due to debris from the failure of the previous turbo, but if that hadn't done me in I found two cracked cylinders so the end was near even if I hadn't spun some bearings instead.

My plans are for some new forged rods, wiseco pistons, darton sleeves and a complete overhaul including some new struts and other various hardware that needs to be replaced and upgraded as long as I'm in there.

Here are a few pics of the process of pulling the motor and doing the autopsy to figure out exactly what went wrong.

Pulling the motor:



Breaking It Down:






















 

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Dang, what turbo are you installing? I know a guy selling a K24 (for a 4T4) with about 60K miles on it. I don't believe he is a hard driver.


Sent using morse code from my iPad
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm going to stick with the K24 for now, but since my new replacement unit needs to be rebuilt I'm going to upgrade the compressor wheel while I'm in there.
 

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I'm going to stick with the K24 for now, but since my new replacement unit needs to be rebuilt I'm going to upgrade the compressor wheel while I'm in there.
If you have some time get a good coating on it. Also try some porting internally, why not upgrade both sides ? Unless time is a constraint. By the look of how fast you got that out and apart I think you will be back on the road very soon. Always amazed at what people with experience and the right tools can do :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I might, but I want to see what my options are without changing its boost characteristics, I like having almost all my boost and torque kick in a little over 2200 RPM.

And it does help having all the right tools. The only thing I had to add to my collection was a special tool for disconnecting the fuel line, and I just purchased the cam timing and installation tools since I now realize I will need it to properly set up the CVVT timing when I put her back together.

Does anyone have any machine shops that are worth recommending for block sleeving and valve jobs? That should be all the outside work I need before I can put this all back together.
 

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If you haven't already I'd toss the oil cooler and get a new one... Never know what might have gotten lodged in there.
 

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I know Viva has a shop out East that they work with. IIRC, KillerB used a shop out West (Cali?) for his build. You may want to ping him. If it were me, I would be all over that IPD turbo. Just look at the torque curve vs stock... and then you can increase the boost and show us what the thing will really do. :beer:

 

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^ +1


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Perhaps somewhere down the road I may upgrade the turbo all together, but after already investing $1K in a new K24 I will be sticking with that unit for now. Got other expensive priorities like darton sleeves and a solid flywheel.

And you are so right Hounddogger, I assume there is a lot of metal flake trapped in that oil cooler judging by the rest of the engine and no reliable way to get it all out of there.
 

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Ugh... Engine carnage I went through George to do the machine shop work on Darton sleeves wiseco pistons, forged rods etc. since I sourced all of the parts from him.


Happy with the results, you might want to consider adding Enem cams to your shopping list.

GL with the build
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, but this time around the budget is fully occupied with just a solid rebuild so stock cams are going back in as well.

Down the road once its all broken in who knows what kind of additional trouble I might invest in though, lol.
 

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If you like the torque down low the ENEM cams are not for you.

If you like the car pulling harder the higher up the revs you go, then they are something worth thinking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Been busy cleaning up the mess I've created, engine compartment is now free of CV joint lube from a busted boot and the general grime of some minor oil and power steering fluid leaks. So clean you could eat off any surface in there now.



And as long as I was busy cleaning things, the tranny is all cleaned up and ready to go back in the car and all the other reusable engine parts are good enough for re-assembly or sending off to the machine shop . . .



 

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OMG - Very nice StealthyS60R :thumbup: ! and thank you so much for posting pics instead of writing paragraphs of poetry... I do the same thing clean up and prep as I go, so when i'am ready to put all together I don't scramble and know what I got and if it is good and it is ready to put on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeppers, cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to keeping an engine alive.

It was debris from a bad turbo thrust bearing that got the ball rolling on all the damage after all. I certainly have no plans to let any leftover crap do in my bulletproof rebuild.

In a way I'm glad I didn't go through the trouble of dropping the oil pan to remove all that crap since it would have been a lot of wasted work once the cracked sleeve gave way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just got my replacement crank, its in beautiful shape with the exception of a bit of a rear main seal groove that I should be able to clean up without any problems.

Also just received about 50 lbs of general repair goodies from FCP which includes a couple new front 4C struts since the old ones were starting to seep fluid.

Now I just need another $3,600 worth of racing guts for the motor from our fine hosts at Viva and $1,700 worth of machine work to sleeve and line bore the block to put it all back together.



 

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