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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am building a project in which I will be using an engine from a 04 s60r. I am on the fence if I should stick with the oem ecu or if I should go to a stand alone. I am not super knowledgeable on ecu's or tunning I just want to do it once. I am assuming all I will need to control is the engine as I am using a manual transmission from a bmw. Are there any standalone ecu's that work well with our 5 cylinders? Also with a standalone I am assuming I have to cut all plugs off engine and solder to new wires? Thank you for you time. -Josh
 

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One difficulty you might find with a standalone is controlling the dual VVT cams. The ME7 is a great ECU and depending on how you want to wire it up you could use a modified factory harness to avoid a lot of fab work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
See this is exactly what I have been hearing. If I were to run the factory ecu, what sensors would I need to keep other then the ones on the engine? Would I need the pedal assembly to keep the throttle by wire or can I convert to cable?
 

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True, but if torque demand is not a concern for him he can go old school with an old school pedal actuated butterfly. After years of turbo cars where you have to worry about managing boost onset and drop with your foot I wouldn't want to go back to the primitive method though.
 

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If you got with the factory ecu from a manual car I believe you would need to keep the pedal assembly and just the engine harness to make it run. If you do stand alone you can switch to cable throttle linkage, you wouldn't necessarily have to cut all the connectors off at the engine but could cut the ecu side off and put on the correct plugs to connect to a mega squirt and I do believe it has the ability to control vvt and such now.
 

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I have a Megasquirt on my mustang and it is a very capable unit. That said, Pro-EFI would be my choice if money were no option. That built Russian R has it. Not cheap though.
 

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The biggest problem with the factory ecu is the immobilizer lockouts. You can't just pull the engine harness, apply power, and fire it up, like you can on older cars.

And if you do have full programming ability that can sidestep that, standalone will still be way easier anyway.

On my RWD swap I'm using a non immobilizer ME4.4 system from a 98 S70 just because I do believe that will be easier than megasquirt but we'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So how does the immobilizer work? Does the ecu not function right without seeing the tcu or somthing?
 

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Right, it cross checks against the key and DIM at a minimum. If it thinks the ecu has been taken out of the car it will refuse to fire the injectors.
 

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Right, it cross checks against the key and DIM at a minimum. If it thinks the ecu has been taken out of the car it will refuse to fire the injectors.
it exchanges a code with the CEM. If the code does not match it will not start. We had an XC90 in the shop the other day that someone had swapped the engine, somehow got the code messed up between the ECM and CEM......scrap unless a dealer would reload both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I thought I remember seeing a few guys with s60r engine swaps in c70s. What you are saying it there is no way to run that engine with the factory ecu? Any suggestions on how to get this engine running in my project?
 

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The motors swapped into 850s, C70s etc will make use of that car's computer/harness. They lose the ability to control VVT on one or both hubs.

I'm running Nira i3+ in my S70, but it won't do VVT and has been discontinued anyway. Again, if money were no object, I would look at Motec.
 

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Why not just use the ME7 harness? It might be easier to use a single VVT harness from a 99-00 X70 because there is no CEM, REM, etc... In a 99-00 X70 the ME7 engine harness is only one passenger side of the car, RH side is airbag. Get all of the required modules and plug it in... All of the wiring aside from the IMM is in the engine bay like the battery. You'd just need the wiring for the PEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So I am talking with MS right now to see if they have a kit that will work on this engine and one of the questions he is asking is

"what sensors does the engine use to trigger the ignition? Variable reluctor (magnetic pickup), optical, hall effect? Also how many teeth, windows, slots are on the wheel? How are they arranged? Equally spaced? Missing teeth gaps etc."
 
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