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I've never heard of changing the oil more often if you only make short commutes. I always assumed the reason why oil broke down was because of heat. Seems shorter commutes in a cooler climate would provide a lot less heat.
The reason that people say if you do a lot of short trips has nothing to do with the temperature of the oil - it has to do with thermal cycling of the engine causing increased engine wear. More wear causes more contaminants in the oil.

Engine wear is highest at startup, when the engine is going from cold to hot very rapidly. So the number of times you start the engine while it's cold matters a great deal to engine wear. Even if Cold = 100°F, if the engine has cooled back down to ambient, starting it up causes wear. The oil is less viscous, and not all the parts are well lubricated at startup.

Lets say you commute 100 miles a day, and I commute 25 mile a day. We each start the car to drive to work, and start again to drive it home. You're going to hit 10,000 miles after 100 days, so 200 starts. I'm going to hit 10,000 miles in 400 days, so 800 starts. Now imagine someone who only drives 5 miles/day, it would take them 2000 days (5 years) to hit 10,000 miles, and they would have started the car 4,000 times in that period. This is why they also put a 1-year interval on the oil change. At 5 miles per day, they'll only have put 1,800 miles on the car after a year, but the car will have ben started from cold 730 times, nearly as many times as I started my car while driving 10,000 miles.

I will likely be changing my own anywhere between 10-15k miles using synthetic
If Volvo could have made the oil change interval 15k miles, they would have. The fact is that ALL of the Drive-E engines are turbocharged, and many are turbocharged AND supercharged. Turbo/super charging an engine causes higher oil temperatures, which causes oil to break down faster. Synthetic oil definitely lasts longer than standard dinosaur oil, but that is offset by new engines being harder on oil. The synthetic oil isn't there to get you 10,000+ miles, it's there because it's absolutely required by the severe service of forced induction engines.

It's up to do what you want to do with your car, but I'd definitely caution against going 15k on a single oil change. Damage to your engine caused by a long oil change interval won't be covered by warranty, and there are plenty of posts in /r/justrolledintotheshop from mechanics having to repair engines that have gone too long without fresh oil.
 

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So I have a Mityvac fluid evacuator and used to do oil changes on my Land Rover via the top. Basically, the MityVac tube runs down the dipstick tube and sucks all the oil up. I could access my filter from the top, and then re-fill once done. Never had to even get below the car or pop the drain plug.

Given our oil gets checked electronically, does anybody know if we can do this on the XC90?
 

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So I have a Mityvac fluid evacuator and used to do oil changes on my Land Rover via the top. Basically, the MityVac tube runs down the dipstick tube and sucks all the oil up. I could access my filter from the top, and then re-fill once done. Never had to even get below the car or pop the drain plug.

Given our oil gets checked electronically, does anybody know if we can do this on the XC90?
The filter is on the bottom, so you're down there anyway.
 

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Castrol Edge 5W-30 is A5/B5 certified again. You will know as it will say on the front of the bottle "GDI Turbo Formula". It is about $20 a fiver on Amazon.
 

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Picked some up.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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@stick_shift - You are the man! Thank you for this wonderful oil-change guide. It's detailed and even more helpful with all the Photos attached. Your thread led me to performing my first oil change this past weekend on my 2018 V90 CC @ 2500 miles on ODO. Everything went perfectly. Used 6 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W30 Oil and the Car runs smooth as butter now! Thank you again. Really appreciate the guidance.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/taLyArUFbGJcCa3dA
 

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One of the problems associated with short driving trips is that the engine oil does not get hot enough to vaporize out the water moisture. The moisture will react with byproducts of the oil and form acids. This can impact the metal components in the engine. Short trips and idling for long periods is hard on engine oil. This is often considered severe use and calls on more frequent oil and filter changes. Most vehicle manufacturers will show the common/expected preventative maintenance required. If you look you will also see a more severe preventative maintenance depending on how the vehicle is driven. When you first start a car it is not a good idea to rev the engine or drive it hard until the engine and oil have come up to operating temperature. Metal expands with heat and initially everything is cold. So when you first fire it up take it easy. Most newer cars (other than sports cars) no long provide oil temperature, oil pressure, water temperature readouts. We essentially are given idiot lights or check engine lights that tell you that you are screwed. I use to run 0wt racing oil in my Acura NSX that was supercharged putting out close to 400 HP at the wheels. I never had a problem but realize that there was a lot of faith in batch to batch manufacturing. I wish Volvo was involved in racing. I would love to see how their 4 cylinder performs in various tunes.
 

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Good discussion here. I am on the 'follow the factory guidelines' path in general. I'd like to get an opinion and I am also going to run this by the dealership. I bought a 2017 S90 T5 Momentum used. The vehicle had 11,300 miles on it when I purchased it. The original owner had the 10K service performed at 7500 miles by a local dealership here in Raleigh, NC. I have a copy of the service order because it was in the dash at purchase. The car now has 17,500 miles on it and the service indicator light is on (as expected). I'd love to get back onto the '10K/20K/30K' schedule so I am thinking about letting this run until 18,500 miles, then adding another 1000 miles at the 28,500 interval (doing the work at 29,500) then getting back onto the normal demarcations at 40K.

Like @stick_shift, I plan on having UOA performed and I also use Blackstone labs for UOA on my 2016 GMC Canyon (Duramax Diesel engine). Not because I feel that I 'have to' but more for my own curiosity! BTW @stick_shift - my Canyon had exactly what they talk about with new vehicles showing up higher than normal metal content due to break in wear. It settled out for oil changes 2 & 3 and now after #4 is pretty low. Interval on the Canyon is calculated via driver info computer (% Oil Life) but in general is 7500 miles or so for the way I drive it.

So - the question here is, "How 'risky' is it, if at all, to slightly extend the service interval (adding another 10% to it)?" I am confident that Volvo has some variability built in, but not sure how much. Plus there is an issue re: extended warranty (I have a 6 year, 100K mile Volvo VIP Platinum Warranty) that requires service 'according to manufacturer recommended intervals'. All this being said, I am pretty comfortable with tacking another 900 - 1000 miles onto the window, but wondering what you guys (and girls?) thoughts may be in this area?
 

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Good discussion here. I am on the 'follow the factory guidelines' path in general. I'd like to get an opinion and I am also going to run this by the dealership. I bought a 2017 S90 T5 Momentum used. The vehicle had 11,300 miles on it when I purchased it. The original owner had the 10K service performed at 7500 miles by a local dealership here in Raleigh, NC. I have a copy of the service order because it was in the dash at purchase. The car now has 17,500 miles on it and the service indicator light is on (as expected). I'd love to get back onto the '10K/20K/30K' schedule so I am thinking about letting this run until 18,500 miles, then adding another 1000 miles at the 28,500 interval (doing the work at 29,500) then getting back onto the normal demarcations at 40K.

Like @stick_shift, I plan on having UOA performed and I also use Blackstone labs for UOA on my 2016 GMC Canyon (Duramax Diesel engine). Not because I feel that I 'have to' but more for my own curiosity! BTW @stick_shift - my Canyon had exactly what they talk about with new vehicles showing up higher than normal metal content due to break in wear. It settled out for oil changes 2 & 3 and now after #4 is pretty low. Interval on the Canyon is calculated via driver info computer (% Oil Life) but in general is 7500 miles or so for the way I drive it.

So - the question here is, "How 'risky' is it, if at all, to slightly extend the service interval (adding another 10% to it)?" I am confident that Volvo has some variability built in, but not sure how much. Plus there is an issue re: extended warranty (I have a 6 year, 100K mile Volvo VIP Platinum Warranty) that requires service 'according to manufacturer recommended intervals'. All this being said, I am pretty comfortable with tacking another 900 - 1000 miles onto the window, but wondering what you guys (and girls?) thoughts may be in this area?
If I remember correctly, I read it somewhere Volvo (or maybe an individual dealership) will service your Vehicle at 1 to 1.5k miles variation to the 10k, 20k and 30k. So basically 18.5k to 21.5k miles for the 20k miles service and they will service it. You should probably confirm this with your Dealership. It would work nicely in your case if you do a 18.5k service and then a final free one at 29-29.5k.

As for how risky it is, it really depends on your daily drive. City or Freeway. I have a pure freeway drive for 90-95% of my Odometer reading and I'm sure my Oil is in a much better condition that one who has the same exact miles as me but on city driving. Only you can answer your own question.
 

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I changed my own oil at around 3000 miles. I was the first consumer purchaser of the vehicle. I just wanted to do it so I could see how things were put together. Also the car had been manufactured over a year ago, so I did not feel that it was a bad thing to do. I have now put another 4000 miles on the car. The other day I pulled the air cleaner and was pleasantly surprised in how clean it looked. No shadows of dirt, nothing to shake out. So that tells me that the car has not been operating in really dusty areas. All the air that enters the engine comes in via the air cleaner. Other than combustion gases and the impurities that are created via that process, the oil should be in pretty good condition. The oils used today are really engineered for their specific applications. I bet the 2 liter 4 cylinder engine that Volvo uses will easily return 200,000 to 300,000 miles without any problems. I wonder who out there has the highest mileage on their vehicle? I will start a post to see.
 

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As promised, here is the UOA. It seems to be well worth it to change it out at 5k or even earlier, especially if you're committed to long term ownership. (Those leasing probably don't care...)

Stick shift, thanks for posting that. Here is mine. Note that the dealer changed the oil as per Volvo at 10k mile intervals. They forgot to get an oil sampling for me the first two times. But here is the third. It's bothersome to me. First, Blackstone measured the oil to be 5W-20. The dealer wrote Castrol Edge 5W-30. It's no biggie, but for once I'd love for dealers to get this right. Secondly, how do I know if they actually changed the oil? Since I have a lift, I will eventually look under there. I am almost certain that there will be screws missing... <sigh>



So has anyone else done these oil analysis? It doesn't look like this engine is made for the long haul. So this Volvo engine is both a turbo and supercharged engine + auto start/stop functionality - it's begging to break down. My goal is to catch it before it breaks down outside of warranty. I had a similar issue with a previous car. Upon further research that previous car's engine was prone to piston failure around 150k miles. It didn't stick around with us for us to find out...we traded it in around 40k miles.

So for those that don't believe the $25 or so cost of an oil analysis is not worth it, this is what an oil analysis led me to find in one of my previous cars. A freakin bolt backed out from INSIDE the engine and was sitting in the oil pan! Granted, this was at around 250k miles. Luckily, further inspection revealed nothing wrong with the engine. The engine was perfect otherwise with the compression being within 4% of each cylinder if my memory serves me correctly!



It came out of that hole right above the chain.

 

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Torque Specs

The oil drain plug torque is 38. Nt-m (28. Lb-ft), the oil filter housing is 25 Nt-m (18.4 lb-ft.) and the oil filter plug is 4 Nt-m (3. Lb-ft)
 

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I've been putting 6.2 quarts in Drive-E engines since they came out and can tell you that is how much they take.
I know this is an old post but according to Amsoil website, the correct amount of oil including filter is 5.9 Quarts.
https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-...cyl-engine-code-10-b4204t2-2-turbo/us-volume/
I realize this is old and the poster clearly just signed up for this one post. But I don't get my specs from aftermarket websites.
 

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Thanks for this post, made the oil change so much easier!
 
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