$200 is pretty good, though I assume that doesn't include rotors. Rotors are so cheap on these Volvos you're better off doing them any time you do pads.

 

Maybe someone can help me.. I'm looking for the OEM-partnumbers of the brakepads on my XC90'21 T8. On my previous volvo i could use vida 2012 to find the part-numbers.. Or does someone perhaps have a tip where i can find all the oem-partnumbers from my car(for example based on the vin-number) thanks!!

 

Will this pad spreader work for front and rear brakes on 2018 XC90? Thanks!

 

Nevermind, I was confused above what you were referring to.

 

Rear pads need to be electronically retracted.

 

Yeah I'm not sure where I got the idea about ceramic being more prone to rotor deposits. I wanted the initial bite of the semi-metallics, but these Brembos were a bad choice. They're crazy squeaky in any cooler weather below ~45F.

The squeaking is from not putting that rubbery/gummy thing behind the pads touching the brake pistons. Also, you want to make sure the piston surface is completely clean and flat prior to spraying that rubbery/gummy anti-squeal thing.

My brembo ceramics lasted slightly longer than the OEM pads and rotors when it comes to pulsating. But man, when the pulsating did occur, the tires sounded like they were going to shred. The pulsating was much worse than the OEM set up. So if that’s not deposits, then it’s rotors warping. Unless I’m missing something.

Rotors rarely warp unless you've been racing at a track, heated them up, didn't do a proper cool down and then the pads are sitting on one spot on the rotor when you parked your hot car.

Any time I get brake pad deposits, I either let miles wear them out OR I go drive as safely fast as I can and STOMP on the brakes with ABS until completely stopped 5 times. If it's still there, then I do the same but "threshold" brake (almost at the point of engaging ABS) 5 times.

If you're still having issues despite above, then your issue is that your rotor and wheel is not sitting flush with each other since the bolts were improperly torqued (for ex, 2 bolts are tightened A LOT more than the other 3 or that each bolt was tightened completely vs sitting each of the 5 bolts a little at a time until torqued).

Ask me how I know the above...

 

The squeaking is from not putting that rubbery/gummy thing behind the pads touching the brake pistons. Also, you want to make sure the piston surface is completely clean and flat prior to spraying that rubbery/gummy anti-squeal thing.



Rotors rarely warp unless you've been racing at a track, heated them up, didn't do a proper cool down and then the pads are sitting on one spot on the rotor when you parked your hot car.

Any time I get brake pad deposits, I either let miles wear them out OR I go drive as safely fast as I can and STOMP on the brakes with ABS until completely stopped 5 times. If it's still there, then I do the same but "threshold" brake (almost at the point of engaging ABS) 5 times.

If you're still having issues despite above, then your issue is that your rotor and wheel is not sitting flush with each other since the bolts were improperly torqued (for ex, 2 bolts are tightened A LOT more than the other 3 or that each bolt was tightened completely vs sitting each of the 5 bolts a little at a time until torqued).

Ask me how I know the above...

In my defense, the dealer replaced the brakes each time. Getting the dealer’s techs to properly torque an oil filter housing is a stretch. So I’m sure the brakes were given the same half ass treatment 🙄.

I’m probably going to do the brakes myself the next time they’re needed though. Brakes don’t scare me. Volvo and Volvo’s bizarre way of making things difficult does.

 

Does anybody know if VDASH sponsored/free version allows to retract the Electronic Parking Brake EPB for SPA XC90?

 

You could just use a 9v battery to do that if you don't want to buy a device. Or just use do it by hand (but a pita).

 

Followed the write up and changed front and rear - pads and rotors on our 2020 XC90 a little while back. Used the manual wind back of the park brake after remove the electric motor. All worked well and straight forward.
The caliper bolts on the front require a bit of muscle. Turned the wheel out for more clearance. I found the Caliper bolts on the rear awkward and ended up using an impact wrench with an offset. Battery impact wrench turned something painful into a non-event.
Changed to ATE rotors and ATE ceramic pads all around. Performing well and not noticed any difference in feel to the original Volvo.

 

Also just completed the rear brake pad replacement (fronts done a few months ago) on a 2017 XC90. Most people seem to advocate one of three ways to retract the rear EPB:

• put the car in service mode with software (VIDA/Orbit/VDASH etc.)
• disconnect the motor and manually unwind
• disconnect the EPB motor terminals and connect a battery of some sort to the motor in reverse polarity to retract

I haven't seen it mentioned here yet but there is a way to retract the EPB just from the cockpit which is IMO the simplest and what I eventually used. No wires, batteries, tools or software required

There are a few videos around showing this process, but it goes like this:

1. Turn and hold (or push and hold) the start/stop for 5 seconds to put the car in Ignition position II
2. Press brake pedal and release park brake. This step is critical and not mentioned in the videos that I found; I could not get this process to work unless I started the process with the park brake released.
3. Press and hold the accelerator pedal (do not release until step 7)
4. Press and hold the park brake release (do not release until step 7)
5. Turn off ignition
6. Turn ignition back on to position II (hold for 5 seconds)
7. EPB should go into service mode with the park brake symbol flashing

return to normal mode is the same thing but pull the park brake control instead of push

 

This is awesome! Is there some type of feedback on the instrument cluster confirming it’s in service mode?

 

Wow, super sweet tip. It might apply to P3's or even P1's Thank you!

 

Here it is explained very well.

 

Second time replacing front rotors and pads. 92K miles. First time was around 55K miles. 37K miles later, the inner pads are down to bare metal. Ordered blue box replacements again from FCP. Rotors are still made in Sweden and pads from Italy. New pads had spacer springs, which only the rears had before (IIRC). Paid the shop to do the job and got my store credit today. I was skeptical when I first started using FCP, but they have always come through with their lifetime warranty. A huge asset for folks who tend to keep their cars forever.

 

Going to go in on this lovely thread after work tonight on my wife's 2017 XC90 T5. Excellent tips and tricks throughout to help me get to the end easily. Thanks for all who posted these in here!

 

^^ that video was GOLDEN for me above, got to do the entire e-parking brake thing right from the driver's seat, worked like a charm! tested it all out before doing the job and it worked perfectly, saved me a bunch of time. Also had to go out and buy an 11mm allen socket before doing the job as I did not have anything above 10 in stock nor a 7/16 one which would have been close enough. Fronts calipers were a bear to remove since there was basically no pad left and the pistons had compressed all the way, even had to remove some brake fluid from the reservoir once I got to the fronts after compressing one side the reservoir was just about at the top... Re-used the rotors since they were still good, next time she gets new rotors and pads, which are now LIFETIME since FCP.

When have you ever seen brake pads worn down this much, with this tiny of a sliver of pad left, yet not all the way through to the backing plate? MIRACULOUS I caught this and changed them yesterday when I did, this car has no brake pad wear squealer, no brake pad electrical circuit for a warning light, it just starts making a grinding noise and by that time, you have what you see here!!!