SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am finally tired of listening to the whales mating in my fuel tank. I noticed while looking online the fuel pumps that oreilies and napa are not even comparable. What is the best brand of fuel pump to get? and maybe a part number?

1998 v70xc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Has anyone had good luck with the aftermarket one? I'd be hesitant after buying a cheap one for my yukon and it only lasted three months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,692 Posts
I've been running the ProParts pump from EEuroParts since May. It works without issue but I also have another pump ready to go in (90 minutes of work for me at this point) if it did fail
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Aren't there 2 fuel pumps? And the tank has to be dropped to access them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,692 Posts
There is one fuel pump on the passenger side of the car. The drivers side is a fuel level sender and it sends fuel over to the passenger side, but there isn't a mechanical fuel pump. Volvo calls the drivers side an "ejector" and for 98 models, it's part #9470840 and costs about $350.

Yeah, the tank has to be dropped to get to the tank. I've done it a few times on my car (long story...) and have gotten quite good at it, so I can have the fuel pump assembly in my hand in about 45 minutes from the time I pull my car onto the lift.

Some people cut a hole in the floor of the car to access the fuel pump, but I'm not a fan of that method and choose to take the extra time/labor to lower the rear subframe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,692 Posts
Wow that's fast :) Are there any special tricks or difficult parts to disassembly? Do you have to drain the fuel tank?
Fuel tank needs to be drained, otherwise gas will come pouring out when the pump assembly is removed.

The subframe only needs to come down about 1" to remove the fuel pump. I bought bolts the same size (M12x1.75) as the factory subframe bolts but about 1" longer. Support the rear subframe with a jack, and one at a time replace the factory bolts with the longer ones. Use the jack to lower the subframe/gas tank and you can easily get to the fuel pump assembly.

That is easier than it sounds because the factory rear subframe is aluminum and the bolts are steel. The interaction between the two different metals creates galvanic corrosion and does a fantastic job of "welding" the stock bolts in place. The first time removing them is a lot of work.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top