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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We just bought my wife a 2012 XC60 two months ago, with two months left on its CPO.

At 92K, I was skeptical about the engine and transmission, but it was a very clean car and looked well cared for.

This weekend, I performed two drain and fills and will do one more to get to the 83% fresh level. I noticed smoother shifting immediately. Here are my tips for a less painful drain and fill process:

1) forget about measuring the fluid, WEIGHT IT ! - we started doing this for cooking a few years ago and it's amazing, you take bowl, tare it, add ingredient, tare it, add next, etc. to the extent possible

2) Using a MityVac with my own vacuum pump as the sucker (instead of hand pump), I pulled 3.33 qts the first time and 3.56 qts the 2nd time. This seems to exceed a drain from the bottom by quite a bit !

3) Dump the extracted oil into a clean 1 gallon bottle (old windshield wash, etc.) and weigh it. The ATF is very close to 800g / qt.

4) Get rid of the old ATF and either use the gallon bottle to weigh the fresh ATF, or estimate fraction of a quart as needed.

5) On the XC60, unlike my S60, a very long neck funnel was not long enough. Instead, I used a top bowl and tubing type of funnel. I think I picked it up at Advanced auto a while back. This funnel has a twist on/off for the flow. You can fill or partially fill the top bowl, give it a twist and the flow starts. I had no problems at full speed but if you see a backup at the torx hole, kill the flow for a moment.

The fluid at 92k was pitch black. Even in a quarter inch depth in a clear plastic cup, I could not see a 600 lumen LED light !

A sample is on its way to Blackstone. When the results come back, I have a good feel for what they'll be.

I'm considering sending a letter to Volvo NA and my dealer. This lifetime fluid is pure BS. We're left holding the bag. On my S60, I changed the fluid at 34k and it had elevated levels of copper and aluminum, along with plenty of other metals. These are all abrasive.

Aisin support in CA told me first hand that 35k was a good interval to replace the fluid. How does Volvo have the audacity to stick us with their "no maintenance unless towing" policy.

We are the ones holding the bag.

My wifes 1991 740 died two months ago at 350k miles. I'd love to see the same from our TF80SC trans but I guess that's not likely.
 

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I like your style. I do a modified Gibbins method on my 07 S60 every 30 thou. After the 4th time at 120, I sent Blackstone a sample. It came back with outstanding results. They commented "keep doing what you are doing" and it will last a very long time. Please tell us what results you get. BTW,contacting Asin support was a very good idea.
 

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I also bought a 2012 XC60 (3.2) two moths ago! It's has 123K Miles and cost around $10k CAD or $8000 USD after tax. What a great deal! :D Then I spend $700 to replace the serpentine belt, tensioner, water pump. The serpentine belt is the original and start to have some cracks on the inner side. Tensioner starts to seize. Good timing. water pump looked to be in great condition but just in case.

I am planing to do a partial drain and fill for the transmission and found your post.

I decided to vacuum from the fill port. If I drain from the bottom then I have to get special tools to measure transmission temperature which I'll use only 1 or 2 times so it'll be waste of money.
also it's a lot more work to climb under the car and unscrew the mud cover. Then also there's a risk of leaking from the drain plug due to incorrect torque. I think for high mileage cars with original transmission fluid. It's a good idea to do partial change. If the transmission fluid is 100% changed, there's a risk of transmission slipping. Leave some old fluid in is a good idea.

I have a Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus and hope it'll work. I used it twice to do a 20% transmission drain/fill for the previous car: 07 Tucson and it improved winter (-20 Celcious or below temp) shifting a lot! Shifting was delayed during extreme cold but improved since the partial change. Who said partial drain and fill is useless?


is the fill port the same location as this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAb9p8Wph-M&list=PLQO1kLlP3UDhvT5cpqU_Bfhhw3yy2ax1b&index=2&t=0s
 

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LOTS of other car companies recommend fluid excange/flush/renewal at specified intervals. I think some VWs recommend 35K for drivetrain fluids. someone at corporate Volvo, i.e. the bean counters, probably said it would save a few $/car, thus Forever Fluids, at least in Volvos was born. First thing i did after buying my V50 was change ALL the fluids, some were black, some not so bad. Car immediately ran smoother. Volvo unfortunately does not seem very interested in (corporate) customer service.
 

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Yes, lifetime by most OEM standards is calculated at a certain mileage, I believe it's 80k for most European cars. So I would absolutely change all the fluids, especially @ 92k.

I alss have a TF80-SC, the biggest difference was when I installed an inline cooler + inline filter. The trans really shifts perfect now and drain an fills are much easier now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I believe it is although my shift linkages look slightly different.

I've used 1/4" polyethylene tubing, the somewhat stiff, translucent type. It's somewhat tricky to snake down the right side from the port hole. Here's where it's really handy to have a source of vacuum as you will be sucking air until you find where the fluid is. This gentleman also had to lift his air box to fill but here's where the funnel with attached tubing works wonders in reaching the hole and controlling the flow (to avoid spills if the port hole burps). No need to remove or move anything.
 

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Weighing the fluid going out and back in, as the original poster indicates, is absolutely the correct way to do it.

Transmission fluid changes volume with temperature, so warm or hot fluid volume measurements are dicey to use for refilling with cold fluid. Plus weighing can be done more accurately unless one wants to buy graduated cylinders (labware).

We've completely completely transfused a P1 S40 and a P2 XC70, by disconnecting the line going to the cooler built into the radiator, with positive results.
 

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The old Swedish method of pumping it out into a gallon jug (mark it at the halfway mark) works well. Pump out 2 quarts, stop engine, pour in 2 fresh quarts.

Repeat until fluid comes out as clear as it goes in, and then check the oil per manufacturer's specs. Done.
 

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I thought the correct way is that when the car is level and the fluid is above 55C, if you remove the smaller drain plug it will be at the correct level if anything comes out? I mean after you were to drain first and then refill. I saw a video done on Youtube "VolvoSweden" or somebody like that who does it that way. He actually did 4-5 flushes but once the trans fluid temp was high enough, he drained off the excess and reset the trans computer. That was my plan as I need to do it this weekend. Just crossing over 90k in my 2014 XC60.
 

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Weighing the fluid going out and back in, as the original poster indicates, is absolutely the correct way to do it.

Transmission fluid changes volume with temperature, so warm or hot fluid volume measurements are dicey to use for refilling with cold fluid. Plus weighing can be done more accurately unless one wants to buy graduated cylinders (labware).

We've completely transfused a P1 S40 and a P2 XC70, by disconnecting the line going to the cooler built into the radiator, with positive results.
Bingo.

Having the cool fluid is the way to do it.
 
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