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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, starting documenting the build.... the website is plain, but I'll get it cleaned up when I have some time

You can see in order where we started and where we are as of today. Was thinking a few years, but this should be fully restored next year, body and paint in a few months tops.

Enjoy: https://www.thesmith142.com/
 

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Nice! Looking forward to seeing your progress.

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Having done this I can relate to the space issue. Lots of Rubbermaid containers and Ziploc bags full of stuff and no place to put them. If its not too late already be sure to label the parts while you still remember what they are and where they came from. Towards the end of my resto I did have a couple of episodes of looking at parts baggies and going 'what the hell is this?'.

Did your car originally have side marker lights and a previous owner filled them in? Illuminated side marker lights or retroreflectors became mandatory in North America in 1968 and in 1970 was changed to only illuminated side markers. I thought the 140 used illuminated side markers right from 1968. I have seen photos of 1968 and later 140s without side markers; but, had always presumed that they were non North American market cars. However, there does seem to be enough photos of 1968 - 1970 140s on the web with no side markers and that appear to be North American vehicles which leaves me wondering whether there were some local variations.

Aside from no side marker lights there is the dedicated rear side marker but no separate front side marker (perhaps the signal light had a separate bulb) like on this 1970

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...vo-144-owner&p=5605433&viewfull=1#post5605433

and the full side marker treatment as on this 1970

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...onnecticut&p=75781190&viewfull=1#post75781190

I filled the side marker lights on my 1971 140 because they are rather ugly plus they were a spot that started to rust around the mounting holes.
 

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Yes, zip lock bags all labeled and boxed in order of break down. It will all be replaced with new, but it will give me an idea of order to put back.

Their are side marker holes but we are shaving those, the entire rear deck and probably the door handles and antenna too.

More updates this weekend. I am considering getting a drop in engine for now but state side vendors are wanting 6-8k. Saw nordicar has them for half that but do not ship this way.


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$ 8000 seems like an awful lot for a B20 rebuild unless you are having a lot of custom work done to the head, dual springs, hot cam, porting ….. It has been 6 years; but I rebuilt my B20E and with machine work and parts it came to less than $2000 Cdn at the time. I did the tear down and re assembly of the engine. Machine work consisted of reboring the block for 0.030 oversize pistons, fitting hardened seats on the exhaust valves, 3 angle valve job, insert new bronze valve guides, resurface rockers, press in new camshaft bearings and a balance of the rotating assembly. The crank was good which saved money because all I needed was to replace the shells on the mains and con rod,the original timing gears were still in good shape and the original oil pump was fine (although I added one of those reinforcing rings and a high pressure spring. Parts consisted of all new bearings, new cam, lifters, push rods some new valves (severe rusting), gaskets , water pump, hoses and upgraded timing and rear covers with neoprene seals. If the crank had required work and I had elected to install steel timing gears that probably would have bumped the price by $500 - $700 depending on how much work the crank required.

The one thing I did not do was deck the block which is a mistake if you are running a high compression engine. If a machine shop does everything that can add a fair amount of $ because they have to do the assembly, measure and then disassemble to machine. If you feel competent you can assemble and measure and disassemble and then instruct the machine shop as to how much you want removed. This saves a couple of hours of cost at the machine shop.

At the time IPD offered a kit of pistons, bearings, gaskets and some other stuff which provided for a significant saving over individual purchase. That option does not appear to be around anymore; but, send them an email and see if they might do something for a complete package of parts for a rebuild. You could try the same thing with VP Autoparts and Iroll. If that does not work out, Rock Auto lists a lot of the common B20 parts for very good prices. I know what Mahle pistons sold for when I did my rebuild and I see what they sell for today. If that inflation applied to all the parts then I could see this heading to $2500 if you do the R&R yourself. I would think that if you drop your removed engine off at a shop that you should still be able to get it back for less than $4000.
 
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