Which codes are they? That would help answer how long they would remain cleared if/when cleared.

 

I don't have any scan tool at my disposal currently i just know what it said on my display readout.

 

Keep moving forward with your repairs. Once you get through this initial rash of fixes due to the previous owners lackluster upkeep you will be in pretty good shape. Keep in mind that you own a 100k+ mile relatively high performance car European car. It's going to be expensive to replace things. But if you DIY, look for part outs to acquire parts less expensively and use distributors like FCP Euro and Tasca Parts for anything you have to buy new, you will be able to get by without breaking the bank.

 

Also, post up where you're at in Montana, there's bound to be someone with a VIDA and a Dice Unit that can help you troubleshoot your codes. (perhaps future codes if you already have existing codes figured out). That can save you a bundle.

 

Have you made sure that the plugs you got are the right length? Only R's used a longer plug and they are real easy to get the wrong ones in there. Also don't get multi-tip ones. just get OEM spec. A lot of people insist on getting Volvo plugs, but I got the nicer ones that NGK recommends and like them. Just be sure to gap them. They don't come pre-gapped for the R.

You do really need to get your car plugged into VIDA to answer your questions. I'm in central Utah, but other members should be a lot closer to you in Montana that may have VIDA.

As far as the whole reliability thing. I feel like modern cars are a crap shoot when it comes to reliability. I just worked on a few Hondas and Toyotas that are supposed to be standard setters for reliability. Two things drove me nuts. 1, they are just no fun to work on. They can bury a nut behind EGR and coolant systems like I have never seen. 2, parts fail that shouldn't. I rebuilt a Honda auto transmission a few weeks ago. The thing was just under-designed. I just helped replace an alternator on a 2009 Toyota with well under 100K. That just shouldn't happen in my opinion. VAG cars just use too much plastic for me to ever trust them (like coolant connectors that explode without warning). BMW and Mercedes seem to be plagued with tons of electronics too.

I like a lot about P2 Volvo's like the R, even though they are FWD based and transverse. They use a lot of metal rather than plastic under the hood and I feel like they are just nicer to work on. If you hang in there are get some good diagnosis, I think you'll love it. I just don't want you to trade one problem car for another.

So, I would get someone with VIDA to get you a good diagnosis and if it's just too much, jump ship. Good luck!

 

Have you made sure that the plugs you got are the right length? Only R's used a longer plug and they are real easy to get the wrong ones in there. Also don't get multi-tip ones. just get OEM spec. A lot of people insist on getting Volvo plugs, but I got the nicer ones that NGK recommends and like them. Just be sure to gap them. They don't come pre-gapped for the R.

You do really need to get your car plugged into VIDA to answer your questions. I'm in central Utah, but other members should be a lot closer to you in Montana that may have VIDA.

As far as the whole reliability thing. I feel like modern cars are a crap shoot when it comes to reliability. I just worked on a few Hondas and Toyotas that are supposed to be standard setters for reliability. Two things drove me nuts. 1, they are just no fun to work on. They can bury a nut behind EGR and coolant systems like I have never seen. 2, parts fail that shouldn't. I rebuilt a Honda auto transmission a few weeks ago. The thing was just under-designed. I just helped replace an alternator on a 2009 Toyota with well under 100K. That just shouldn't happen in my opinion. VAG cars just use too much plastic for me to ever trust them (like coolant connectors that explode without warning). BMW and Mercedes seem to be plagued with tons of electronics too.

I like a lot about P2 Volvo's like the R, even though they are FWD based and transverse. They use a lot of metal rather than plastic under the hood and I feel like they are just nicer to work on. If you hang in there are get some good diagnosis, I think you'll love it. I just don't want you to trade one problem car for another.

So, I would get someone with VIDA to get you a good diagnosis and if it's just too much, jump ship. Good luck!

Sorry, meant to reply here but yes i gapped them myself and used the NGK like you did. I completely agree about newer cars though i feel so disconnected from what is going on in them. And everything is electronic so when one thing goes it's never as simple as it should be.

But just in general do you guys feel that if maintenance is legitly taken care of and its daily-driven that i can expect to see another 100k miles or so in this car. I'm just wanting to know if i made the right decision by selling a 65k mile 2006 mazda to get into something i would enjoy a lot more.

 

Im in Bozeman so southwest montana, but really if you live in montana you're prepared to drive for just about anything you need special.
I really love the lines and potential of the car i just honestly, dont know if i'll be able to keep affording repairs like this especially if its something catastrophic or my AWD fails in the winter here.

Also, im coming from VW/audi/Porsche's so i know about euro expensiveness, but honesly ive never put this much money into any car just for maintenance in the first year, much less 3 months. I think its mainly just driving me nuts to watch my savings dwindle so quick since i've bought this car. And im mainly considering selling at this point so i can atleast get back 80% of what i have into it.

 

Also, im coming from VW/audi/Porsche's so i know about euro expensiveness, but honesly ive never put this much money into any car just for maintenance in the first year, much less 3 months. I think its mainly just driving me nuts to watch my savings dwindle so quick since i've bought this car. And im mainly considering selling at this point so i can atleast get back 80% of what i have into it.

You're catching up on years of maintenance that the previous owner was too cheap to do. And maybe a little bad luck.
Get your current stuff sorted and it won't be a particularly expensive car to own and maintain.

 

I've have a '96 850r for about 8 years. A year ago I bought a 2006 v70r. I do All my own work on them. I find that maintenance is rewarded with reliability in these cars. Problem is that even if you don't maintain them they will run for quite a while until, like the straw that broke the camel's back, all of a sudden nothing works and it won't work again until everything is fixed. I say, stay the course, get vida/dice for yourself And look forward to a Long relationship with your car. I'm north of you, in northern Alberta, and I have found The VR, with nokian wr2's, to be much better than my 4x4 in every way, especially in The winter.

 

By The way, I got that advanced chassis setting code while on holidays this summer. Vadis told me that there was no signal from The left rear shock. I jacked It up and found that the wire harness had slipped off the strut and gotten severed. It is just two wires so I spliced them together, soldered and insulated and that took care of it.

 

At that mileage you'll have a few things to do but once you're done hopefully you'll have pretty good reliability (as what is expected for a higher mileage car). Use OEM R parts as much as possible and see FCP, ViVA, Tascaparts, Rock Auto for parts. I daily drive mine to work everyday (Canadian winters) and every so often I'll have a few things at once then no issues for a while so it averages out (although when you're dealing with 2-3 things at once it can be frustrating). Wrenching on it yourself certainly helps.

 

Hi, I'm sorry I'm not offering any help or advice at all. But there is a thread over on the ODB list, that has people with VIDA on it:

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?215573-VIDA-DiCE-Locator-Thread

That then links to a map:

https://mapsengine.google.com/map/u/0/viewer?mid=zjit-OuXx4Vs.k94v6MX3qN-A

I'm in CO. so even further than UT. but willing to help if your ever in the hood.

Good luck with your decision.

 

Unfortunately, we can't really tell you if this is the car for you, or what lies ahead of you with the car. I will say, in spite of some of the trouble I've had (and some repairs I'm looking down the barrel of), I enjoy this car immensely. I love putting in the time and effort to keep the car clean and running right, and really, really enjoyed it in the snow last winter (can't wait for this year, actually).

This car is more work than many, but seeing as you came from Audi's and VW's, you really shouldn't be shocked to spend $2500 in a year (and if you are, you've had some unbelievable luck), particularly if the car wasn't kept in good condition by the previous owner. It sounds like there were a laundry list of items that needed attention, but were subsequently ignored (and probably attributed to the sale of the vehicle).

One of the downsides of being a gearhead is that we get our kicks from keeping a car as close to mechanically perfect as (financially) possible...

The information available on this forum is a great way to cut down on costs significantly. Also, invest in a VIDA unit from eBay if you haven't already; that will help diagnosis a lot, mainly because of all the electronics involved.

 

Soupandspoons' list is pretty comprehensive. Those are all issues members tend to deal with on the path from 100k to 200k.

Initially, the list seems daunting. But many of the items have easy fixes. A/C compressor can be shimmed or a relatively low mile part out can be had (~$70). Siren battery can be replaced preemptively (read: asap) to prevent corrosion and subsequent damage to the circuitry inside the unit. (a ~$10.00 fix and just takes removing the pass. headlight)

I would say the biggest expenses are the suspension/bearing refresh (@ ~100k-120k mi), the potential angle gear/Haldex issues and the original clutch slave cylinder leak/failure (replacement OE slave cylinders are more reliable). All things that can be taken care of early to prevent excessive expense from failure.