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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm hoping this can help anyone else looking for some guidance to do water/meth injection.

Water/Methanol Injection Installation
Parts List
Snow Performance Stage 3 Water/Methanol Injection (p/n 20100)
Devil’s Own 30/40 amp relay x 2 (reference 2206)
Devil’s Own Plug in Elbow x 5 (no part #)
Devil’s Own 250psi Solenoid (reference 2205)
Brass 90* ¼” fitting x 2
Brass ¼” x ¼” x ¼” T fitting
8 point terminal block (Home Depot)
18/2c wire
20/4c (or 22/4c) wire
18/3c wire
12vdc toggle switch w/LED, ½” mount (Pep Boys)
3M 20# two-sided adhesive tape (Home Depot)
36” x ¾” x 1/8” aluminum flat bar
Red & Blue crimp-on bullet, spade, and fork connectors
Heat shrink
¾” self-tapping screws
Plastic wire loom

Optional parts (I wasn’t thrilled with the Snow parts)
Devil’s Own Low Profile Nozzle Holder (reference 3010)
Devil’s Own DO4 Outside Mount Nozzle (reference 2704)
Devil’s Own DO5 Outside Mount Nozzle (reference 2705)
AEM Water/Methanol Filter (p/n 30-3003)—I didn’t want to rely on just the nozzle screen/filter
1/8” nylon tubing kit (available at any parts store)

General Installation Notes:
• As near as I can tell, the 3qt reservoir that comes with Snow’s kit is the largest (height-wise) that will fit in space I mounted it, short of having a custom reservoir made.
• I used heat shrink to create a seal around the crimp connectors and wire that went under the hood. I also taped over the bullet connectors once I plugged each end together.
• Use the two-sided tape from the Snow Performance kit, or 20# tape to secure the controller to the bezel once everything checks out.
• I used the fork connectors on the terminal blocks and the bullet connectors under the hood and dash wiring. The only place I used butt splices was in the center stack to power the toggle switch.
• I wish I had black electrical tape for use under the hood. The one place the blue worked perfect was where the wire came into the engine compartment under the fender…it kind of blends in with the paint. :cool:
• I still haven’t hooked up the discharge of the pump to the air intake pipe. Since I have to sell the PhMIC kit with the water/meth injection port, I need to get one of the plastic ports that can be used on the plastic air pipe from either Devil’s Own or Snow Performance.
• Looks like I exceeded the 30 pic max, so I put the "overage" as url's. In case they're too small, the following link should show the entire album with full-sized pics, and the pics are in no particular order
https://plus.google.com/photos/107748432587720449797/albums/5801420397464428561

Instructions
1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery
2. Toggle switch—a bone tool will be needed to remove many of the items below
2.1. Remove spaceball or automatic shifter cover
2.2. Pop off button cover from bottom of center stack
2.2.1. Locate a spot on that cover to mount the switch; keep in mind that the circuit board behind the cover has the plugs for additional/optional Volvo buttons.


2.2.2. Drill ½” hole in the cover



2.2.3. I had to use a file to round off the bottom of the toggle switch housing in order to match the contour of the cover


2.2.4. Mount the switch on the cover


2.3. Remove the center stack (radio, HVAC controls) from the dash
2.4. Disconnect power outlet (cigarette lighter) plug
2.5. Splice in wires for toggle switch into the power outlet wires
2.5.1. Either cut the wires (purple is positive, black is negative) and use yellow butt connectors to add in wires for the toggle switch or use “no cut” wire splices like those that come with the Snow kit
2.5.2. Reconnect the power outlet plug to the back of the power outlet
2.5.3. Drill a hole under the center stack big enough to run the power wires and switched wire through. Be cautions not to run the drill bit into the circuit board or button plugs
2.5.4. The 3rd wire will be used to power one of the relays under the hood—run it behind the dash to the driver’s side and be sure to leave enough to reach where you need it under the hood (10-15’ should be more than enough; I didn’t take actual measurements). In my case, my 3rd wire was actually an 18/2c with one of the wires not connected to anything
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-aXF9p31jo6U/UK43gyRdPzI/AAAAAAAAAJg/FOSLGh5tD10/s512/IMAG0843.jpg



2.6. Use crimp-on spade connectors to connect wires to the toggle switch
2.6.1. I had to cut & bend the blades on the back of the switch in order for the spade connectors to clear the circuit board & unused Volvo button sockets
3.


3.1.1. I also used a piece of electrical tape to cover the circuit board directly behind the spade connectors, just in case (see picture under 2.5.4)
3.1.2. The LED in my switch was too bright, so I painted over the LED with 3 or 4 coats of Testors flat black model paint—it was enough to subdue the brightness w/o totally blacking it out (the pics are before I painted over the LED)




3.1.3. If you use an unlit switch, you should only need two conductors—one that goes to the 12vdc source and the other to go to the engine bay
3.2. Pull the wire slack through the hole and reinstall the bottom cover on the center stack
3.3. Reinstall center stack
3.4. Reinstall spaceball/shifter cover


4. Driver’s area
4.1. Use bone tool to remove the gauge cluster bezel
4.2. Remove the gauge cluster from the dash (4 torx head screws & unplug wiring harness)
4.3. Remove the bottom cover from the under the dash
4.4. Run a 20/4c, 18/3c, and the wire from the switch from the driver’s side of the dash to then engine bay
4.4.1. If you’ve installed a boost gauge, follow the same routing described in iPd’s instructions; if you haven’t, look up their instructions online as they use the easiest (only?) route w/o drilling through the firewall
4.4.2. If you haven’t installed a boost gauge, also follow their instructions to connect a 1/8” nylon tube from the manifold to the gauge area; the tubing on the Snow controller is an odd 3/32”id - 5/32”od size and it’s not long enough to reach the manifold
4.4.3. I removed the little foam plug completely and used a 3/8” grommet as the wires + the nylon tubing filled out that hole. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get the grommet past the plastic of the dash and to the actual sheet metal behind. I’m not really worried about the wires or tubing getting nicked/cut as there is very little wiggle room and all of my wire has two layers of insulation.
4.4.4. I cut a small cross in the rubber body plug to slip all of the wire and tubing through, I did not try to cut out a hole in it














4.5. Place the controller in the gauge area and trim off the amount of outer jacket necessary to separate the tubing and wire coming from the controller
4.6. Run the wire and tubing from the back of the controller behind where the gauge cluster sits, running the wire down the back of the dash and keeping the tubing up top
4.6.1. Cut off excess wire and tubing as necessary/desired
4.7. Test-fit the controller by setting the gauge cluster back in the dash and lining up the bezel; mark the bezel where the wire will sit against it
4.8. Trim a notch in the bezel where the wire will come through so it doesn’t get pinched (I used a tiny saw from a local hobby shop)






4.9. Locate where you want to place the low-level LED in the bezel and drill a ¼” hole
4.9.1. I would suggest a spot slightly higher than where I placed it in order to clear the padding behind the bezel, or you’ll need to trim some of the padding as I did


4.10. Mount the LED in the hole


4.11. Use the 20/4c to connect to the LED wires and blue injector harness wires coming from the controller
4.11.1. Keep the polarity of the LED in mind because it will not work if polarity is incorrect
4.12. Use the black tubing and brass T connector to connect tubing for the controller and boost gauge to the manifold source tubing. You won’t need the T connector if you don’t have a separate boost gauge
4.12.1. Use small zip ties to hold the “slip” connections together and prevent leaks


4.13. Reinstall and secure the gauge cluster and bezel. Don’t secure the controller to the bezel just yet, in case you do wind up with a leak or two
4.14. Use the 18/3c wire to connect to the power source, pump signal, and ground wires on the controller (you can use 18/2c if you want to ground the controller near the fusebox)


4.15. Tuck wires back under the dash and re-install the lower dash cover
5. Under the hood mechanical
5.1. Remove the blank cover and mounting base located behind the driver’s side headlight
5.2. Relocate the vacuum solenoid valve
5.2.1. Disconnect the tubing from the vacuum control solenoid valve, keeping in mind which tube goes on which port
5.2.2. Trim off about an inch from each tube and reconnect to the solenoid; this should move the solenoid inward & low enough to not interfere with the water/meth pump
5.3. Use the flat aluminum bar to fabricate mounting brackets for the reservoir
5.3.1. Remember to keep the reservoir cap well below the top of the fuse/power distribution box so that the hood doesn’t hit it when closed; this will also give you room to mount the terminal blocks on the side of the fuse box
5.3.2. I was able to use one of the factory bolts to help secure the inboard bracket to the car; I used ¾” self-tapping screws to secure the other part of that bracket and the bracket that sits on the wheel arch. These three screws just barely poked through the inner fender well







5.4. Install one of the plug in elbows in the fitting at the bottom of the reservoir
5.5. Mount the reservoir to the brackets (use Snow’s instructions for installing the float switch)
5.6. Position the pump in an appropriate spot forward of the reservoir and use 4 of the long self-tapping screws and washers to mount the pump (I looked and didn’t see anything on the underside that these screws could accidentally damage)




https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAABs/h8jjmFbRldM/w321-h240-n-k/IMG_0005.JPG

5.6.1. Use two more of the plug in elbows on the pump inlet & outlet ports (make sure you know which port is which)
5.7. Mount the solenoid under the fender lip using 6-32 machine screws
5.7.1. Make sure it is oriented so that the inlet is facing the reservoir and the outlet is facing the pump
5.7.2. Use the last two plug in elbows on the ports of the solenoid
5.8. Use the nylon injection tubing and 90* brass fittings to pipe up the filter, solenoid, and pump inlet
5.9. Install the appropriate nozzle into the nozzle holder and install into the intake air pipe
5.10. Pipe up the injection tubing from the pump discharge to the nozzle holder
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAEc/U0o7LhHOwUk/w328-h246-n-k/IMG_0023.JPG

6. Under the hood electrical
6.1. I used some of the 20# tape to secure the plastic loom wrap near the driver’s side hood support since I didn’t want it to shift around when the hood was open
6.2. Mount the relays to the back side of the brackets that the reservoir is mounted to
6.3. Cut the terminal block into three sections: two 3-column sections and a single 2-column section
6.3.1. The 2-column section won’t be used
6.3.2. Make up the wiring connections on the terminal blocks and relay bases before securing the terminal blocks to the side of the fuse box, as the reservoir will make it hard to get to the screws afterwards. Use the 20# tape to mount the terminal blocks on the fuse box.
6.3.2.1. The first terminal block is used for +12vdc power connections, the second is used for ground connections
6.3.3. Follow the wiring diagram below to make up your connections
6.3.3.1. Wiring the system in this manner will allow the float switch to kill the signal to the pump & solenoid and light up the low-level LED without killing power to the controller itself
6.3.3.2. This diagram also allows the entire system to be powered directly from the battery/alternator, and independently fused, instead of a fused source (lighter) in the car. Snow’s controller is internally fused, but I used an external fuse, just in case.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAL8/gdT7ENCS77o/w390-h301-n-k/scan0001.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAGE/BPcXKEYGxfI/w591-h332-n-k/IMAG0893.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAD8/kWUJ2C_AZ58/w392-h293-n-k/IMG_0017.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAEE/_VzTrBZd_n4/w392-h293-n-k/IMG_0021.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAEM/V34tLNMslLc/w392-h293-n-k/IMG_0018.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAEU/ITLgjCoItKk/w328-h246-n-k/IMG_0022.JPG

7. Final installation pics
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DBdzYoPcvQM/UILQ2Urs-II/AAAAAAAAAEk/Pz0cq3BGfJQ/s512/IMG_0025.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAE8/eN_JtfVrtxc/w392-h293-n-k/IMG_0030.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAG8/1_s7FgFRdbA/w591-h332-n-k/IMAG0920.jpg
 
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Agree with Blazin, nice write and detailed - appreciate the time. I am making a write up as well for the AquaMist system using factory windshield reservoir and a adjustable flow controller based on boost.
 

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thank you so much, i am going to do this and your writeup will help me so much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quick update: I finally got the injector mounted and tubing finalized. Even with the low level float mounted as low as I could get it, it will go "in & out" when the tank level is about 1/3 full and I take turns or go up/down hills. The way I have my "safety" relay, this will interrupt meth injection at times I don't necessarily want. You might consider leaving out the "safety" relay and just wire the float to turn on the LED on the dash (as the Snow instructions show).
 

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I was asking RivasC about his install, cuz I'm looking to get into doing meth as well... And this question showed up:

My buddy has an E92 M3, and his meth kit has TWO tubings going into his intake (yellow circled area), why is that? Does anyone know?

I asked him (my buddy) and he's clueless cuz his Indy installed it for him... Life's easy when you just throw money at things eh lol. Thanks:



^NOT ACTUAL PIC OF HIS CAR.
 
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