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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was driving my son's V50 T5 today, and went to pass a car on the freeway, so was hard on the gas, and it felt a little low on power and started to smell burning and looked back and saw was smoking out the back which proceeded to get worse, much much worse until the car was not running very well and could not see anything behind me, finally made to an exit and the car died at the stop sign,
will not start again. Smoke was coming out the oil fill cap when I removed it. Perhaps PCV failure? My search showed that if this fails and allows crankcase pressure, the oil return to the pan will backup the oil into the turbo intake so it burns the oil. Seems that is what happened writ large. Plugs probably full of oil and won't start. Or could be worse damage?
 

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I was driving my son's V50 T5 today, and went to pass a car on the freeway, so was hard on the gas, and it felt a little low on power and started to smell burning and looked back and saw was smoking out the back which proceeded to get worse, much much worse until the car was not running very well and could not see anything behind me, finally made to an exit and the car died at the stop sign,
will not start again. Smoke was coming out the oil fill cap when I removed it. Perhaps PCV failure? My search showed that if this fails and allows crankcase pressure, the oil return to the pan will backup the oil into the turbo intake so it burns the oil. Seems that is what happened writ large. Plugs probably full of oil and won't start. Or could be worse damage?
Well it's either burning ON the exhaust or burning OUT the exhaust. Get under there with a flashlight and check and hope it's something easy. If it's pushing OUT the turbo seal into the exhaust stream you're gonna need a new turbo/cartridge if it's not ruined the engine already. If it's pushing out other areas it means there was probably a pcv clog and the oil seals on the cam shafts got pushed out.

#1 - check dipstick for oil in the tank - if no oil then it means you ran it dry and it's definitely toast.
#2 - Check for oil leak on head/block and camshafts.
#3 - If there's no leaks on the outside of the engine, it means you've probably blown your turbo oil seal so it all got sent into the exhaust and burned out from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The dipstick shows it is full. The front driverside camshaft cover was blown off, and looks like oil was coming out there.
The turbo output crossover pipe to the intercooler had oil coming out of the hose connections. So I am hoping all that went bad was the pcv clogged and pushed oil to burn through the turbo and also onto the exhaust to burn there too. So just replace the pcv oil filter hosing and hoses and check for clogs and hope the turbo is ok? Or replace that too? I have my s40 parts car turbo.
 

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The dipstick shows it is full. The front driverside camshaft cover was blown off, and looks like oil was coming out there.
The turbo output crossover pipe to the intercooler had oil coming out of the hose connections. So I am hoping all that went bad was the pcv clogged and pushed oil to burn through the turbo and also onto the exhaust to burn there too. So just replace the pcv oil filter hosing and hoses and check for clogs and hope the turbo is ok? Or replace that too? I have my s40 parts car turbo.
Well lucky ducky! Glad to hear it didn't run it'self dry.

Yes your PCV def needs replacing along with the seals and cap on that blown end.

I've never heard of a turbo seal re-sealing after being blown, unfortunately, but you can check and see if it's a leak worth caring about. In the diesel world we drilled a 1/32" hole into the output side of the intercooler to push water and oil out while driving, but obviously avoiding that if possible is good as these systems are much smaller and pushing 1/4 the air through.

I'd replace the PCV, the blown head seals, and clean the intake track, drive it for a week and then see how bad the leak is. A little oil is normal - enough to drip out is not.
 

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I don't think I've ever seen anyone report that a camshaft *cover* plug blew out. These are the ones at the rear of the head, away from the timing belt. That one?

There is a kind of slit in the metal cap, which is covered by a layer of plastic, perhaps that was compromised and split. If so, it's a trivial problem, just pry it out and tunk in a new one. Oil back there would definitely make it onto the exhaust flange, where it could burn. Maybe the PCV is ok! Look for oil behind the pulleys at the front though, those front seals are commonly the first place crankcase overpressure shows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have been trying to get this car started so I can move it into the driveway. I pulled and replaced all the plugs, the back four were oily, front two were ok.
I checked and found spark on the 1st plug, it will not start. Cranks slow, so charged up battery, crank speed better, but not great, and still no start.
Tried some starting fluid in the hose before the throttlebody, but no joy, not a pop. I guess next is compression check? Having spark, the start fluid should have yeilded something.
And I will get my 100amp charger/starter on it and see if that makes a difference. Any others ideas appreciated.
 

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I pulled and replaced all the plugs, the back four were oily, front two were ok.
Um, four plus two is ... not five?

Oily doesn't sound good at all. Really hope it's not the turbo puking into the intake. But engine should still try to fire.

The charger/starter might help cranking but the electronics may not like it any better than the weak battery. Best to fully charge it, out of the car, then reinstall and power up.
 

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Actually, one suggestion. It's not too difficult to pull back the intake rubber pipe from either the intercooler outlet or the throttle valve. This can give you a look to see if there's oil entering the manifold from a blown turbo seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Actually, one suggestion. It's not too difficult to pull back the intake rubber pipe from either the intercooler outlet or the throttle valve. This can give you a look to see if there's oil entering the manifold from a blown turbo seal.
There is definitely oil in the turbo output pipes. As I understand this happens because of the positive pressure in the oil pan so the turbo oil drain doesn't drain and the oil gets pushed past the turbo oil seal.
I hope this caused no permanent damage. I saw the pcv hose from valve cover to pcv/oil filter housing got blown off, and the cam cover in the back of the engine by the intake manifold also blown off.
 

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Wow that was some pressure.

I guess I would suggest disconnecting both the in and out rubber pipes at the intercooler and sopping up anything you find. Maybe even remove the IC and its pipes and flushing them all out. Basically the entire set of "low spots" where any oil might still be sitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
No compression. 30lbs number 1 cyl, almost zero number 3, didn't bother to check the rest. The camshaft pulleys are turning, belt is in tact.
Destroyed head gasket?

I read about the "lawnmower effect", so put some oil in the cylinders and checked again, and went from 5 to 30, so they are still bad.
I see oil coming out of the rear cam area where the end cap was blown off, so I am wondering if there is not enough oil pressure with that seal leaking
to get the lifters pumped up to open the valves? The first cylinder went from 30 to 60 with oil, i am thinking that is the first cylinder to get a little oil pressure,
and the rest are not getting any.
 

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Unfortunately we have solid shaft cams that don't use oil pressure driven lifters - straight camshaft pick to valve (with a spacer in the middle).

Still, 30 and 60PSI isn't anywhere near where it should be. It should be 95+ ideally around 100-110PSI with oil.

Dang, headgasket would be likely but odd to have ALL 5 go at once. maybe your belt skipped a couple teeth and bent some valves? try to get TDC aligned and check assuming your cams have never been messed with.

I am not going downstairs to check, but can in the morning, someone confirm - oil flow is to the cam journals directly through the head right? i.e. if he had a blockage and enough friction built up it could have forced the cam to skip some teeth on the belt or twisted the gear on the cam?
 

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I can't imagine a camshaft would sieze due to oil starvation, without many other catastrophes throughout the engine. Yes, it comes straight through internal oilways.

Struggling to understand how oil overpressure can happen though. And how it could result in zero compression. I guess the next step might be to get a borescope in there and inspect valves and pistons. Even a 5-cylinder blown headgasket would allow some pressure to build up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It is now my opinion that the rings are toast, the boost on the freeway finished them off. The car had got hot previously, it was probably much worse than I thought, and cooked the rings,
and now they are totally done.

So not sure how to proceed.
I replaced the T5 in my C30 recently, not excited about doing an engine swap again. Rering kit is $450 on ebay. Could I do it without removing the engine from the car?
 

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It is now my opinion that the rings are toast, the boost on the freeway finished them off. The car had got hot previously, it was probably much worse than I thought, and cooked the rings,
and now they are totally done.

So not sure how to proceed.
I replaced the T5 in my C30 recently, not excited about doing an engine swap again. Rering kit is $450 on ebay. Could I do it without removing the engine from the car?
So in theory - yes it is. I say this because I haven't done it myself, but from disassembly on my last one, it is doable.

Remove the pan.
Remove the head.
12 point socket to disconnect the lower halves of the connecting rod and then push them up and out of the block - don't remove them fully
pull off the rings with a proper ring spreader/remover.
Push piston down and put new rings in bores checking for proper cool gap.
Lift piston back up and put on new rings with proper tool, orient properly, squeeze properly and reassmble, lubing every metal-metal surface along the way with assembly lube.
I am not sure what lower connecting rod torque is so you'll need to look that up, but all in all a definitely doable job IMO. Will need a jackstand or two to hold it in place while you're under it.

https://parts.volvocarslisle.com/a/...der-Turbo/_51507_5702406/Piston/GR-76774.html
The above kit has #5 - which is a ring kit going from stock, .025 oversized, and .04 oversized - pay attention and order the right one as the kits are $48/piece for rings alone, but better than the $90 online. Bottom one is the standard rings. Tasca has the stock size kit for $45/piece.

This is of course skipping the proper step where you pop the block halves apart and get it honed correctly before reassembly so the rings seat with the least amount of possible risk. I would get a bore gauge as well to see if you have larger (.025 or .04) pistons (probably not) and that you order the proper rings for the job.

Here's the thread with the torque specs for the various parts of the car (including the Connecting Rod caps) - it looks like they're TTY bolts so they'll have to be replaced during the teardown.
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?66457
 
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