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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am thinking that I am having the dreaded slave cylinder failure issue.
I have a 2005 2.4i S40 manual with 140k miles on it, with the slave cylinder never being replaced (to my knowledge).

There have been the occasional issues that indicate that it is the slave cylinder issue:
  • Have had the clutch stay down when shifting (pumping it fixed it)
  • Random low break fluid warning (I filled the reservoir and it has not happened again)
But yesterday the following happened that I have not seen from other reports of the slave cylinder failing:
  • Had just gotten to a stoplight that was going to change soon, had it in first gear with the clutch down
  • the car slowly seemed to be putting it into gear, which stalled the engine (as I did not know what was happening)
  • Clutch was stuck in the down position, but when i pulled up on it slightly the pedal shot fully up and worked again to drive 5 min home
Does this still seem like the slave cylinder failing?
I thought that the clutch would stay down if the cylinder started to fail, not shoot up when pulled on slightly.
Also I have not noticed any leaking since I refilled the break fluid reservoir
 

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When my slave cyl failed, the clutch just fell to the floor and that was it. I could lift it up but it just went straight back to the floor. Luckily it was in neutral when it failed. Maybe you have a vacuum leak?

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
 

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When I asked Bob Penkhus Volvo Mazda to replace the slave on mine when they had the engine out, they told me, "I've never had or seen a slave cylinder fail or need replacement here." and to not worry about getting it done. It made me laugh, because it's like one of those things you ALWAYS do when changing a clutch. But whatever, we'll see how long it lasts before I need to do it.

I'm willing to bet you got some air in your lines when the brake fluid was low. There's some videos on easy bleeding of the M66 slave if you have the 6 speed. Look them up. If it works sometimes and not others but then immediately works again, it's probably not the slave cylinder, once those fail, they usually go.....all.....the.....wayyyyyyyy - and so does the pedal - to the floor - and stays there - laughing at you.
 

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Huh I have the exact same symptoms as OP and my car (05 t5 AWD) has 132k miles. So it only needs to be bled and won't fail?
 

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M66 - Common to fail ~100k. Updated slave 31258380 & "air pipe" 30787651 should be used.
M56 - Not nearly as common.

Bleed/flush every 2 years as recommended will greatly enhance the life. Once it starts sticking on the floor it's generally too late. Can't hurt to try though.
 

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I'd do a good pressure bleed and fresh fluid, and go from there. My clutch felt like a whole different unit after I pressure-bled the whole clutch/brake system with fresh ATE SL-6.
 

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I'd do a good pressure bleed and fresh fluid, and go from there. My clutch felt like a whole different unit after I pressure-bled the whole clutch/brake system with fresh ATE SL-6.
Does anyone know how to do this?

My car has a slow but consistent brake fluid leak and the clutch pedal acts up when the car is cold..
 

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First things first. Find the leak.
Have you ever flushed or bled brakes on any car before?
 

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slave cylinder failure 2005 s40

My clutch pedal is on the floor and brake fluid is leaking from the bell housing. Im pretty sure it is the slave cylinder. I need a diagram of the slave cylinder and any other information i need to fix it myself.
 

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It is the slave. Replacement involves pulling out the transmission...
Diagram for Turbo. Make sure to order a new "Air Vent Pipe" as it'd been upgraded also.
 

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Quick question without taking this too off-topic - does the master cylinder need to be replaced when the slave is? I know in previous Porsche experience, they were always replaced in pairs (something about the new seals in one being too much for the older seals in the other to handle).
 

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Nope. Master very rarely has issues. Good thing too because replacement is way harder than you would think.
 

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If Your really Lucky - might just be some crap in Line . ( Usually Not the case )
Notice any slight WET area's around Your Calipers or on Mags . ( Wondering about Air or Moisture )

The ATE SL-6 is a Very Thin Special ABS Brake Fluid - I believe 1 person switched over to this and His started system Leaking .
Just Go ATE 200 or ATE Blue - just - to get Good & Clean First .

Gravity is Your friend - If You don't have all the other Pressure Tanks and Items - which If Not done right - Cause a Leak also ..
Gravity Bleed - First for 5 min. - No Pumping - just Gravity - as Your trying to get some New Fluid to Recondition the Seals in there ..

See How that Goes .. then .. If all seems well - Pump out the Clutch with 4-5 Sets Min. ( Nice & Slow ) and Lock the Plastic Bleeder Carefully - As
A strong Arm can Break those .
If all Turns out well and You feel You didn't get everything out - then You should try the Pressure Bleed - just My 2 Cents ..

ps: Volvo that have had Fluid Changed before .If You have one that Suspect Never been done well best to Pressure Bleed . read ( Full of Water )
 

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Does anyone have a diagram of the manual s40 2.4 l engine
My clutch pedal is on the floor and brake fluid is leaking from the bell housing. Im pretty sure it is the slave cylinder. I need a diagram of the slave cylinder and any other information i need to fix it myself.
 

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When my slave cyl failed, the clutch just fell to the floor and that was it. I could lift it up but it just went straight back to the floor. Luckily it was in neutral when it failed. Maybe you have a vacuum leak?

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
Exactly how mine happened ^
 

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Does anyone have a diagram of the manual s40 2.4 l engine
If you don't know how to remove the transmission, you need a service procedure guide, not a diagram of the engine. You can buy a bootleg version of VIDA off eBay, that will give you all the Volvo service procedures, or search online for things like "M66 clutch replacement", etc...
 
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