First off, I didn't expect to see that spring there. That means the bearing spins the whole time the engine is running(not just when you disengage the clutch).
Now the seal. Any ideas why the rubber looks like that?
Perhaps cheap quality rubber, or too much heat?
Thanks very much for taking the time and effort to make the cutaways and post the great pics. I couldn't picture in my mind what it looked like before your post.
First off, I didn't expect to see that spring there. That means the bearing spins the whole time the engine is running(not just when you disengage the clutch).
Huh. So, resting your foot on the clutch makes no difference in these cars?
Quote »
Now the seal. Any ideas why the rubber looks like that?
Perhaps cheap quality rubber, or too much heat?
Btw, this failed at 70K miles.
Where's that seal exactly?
Maybe changing the brake/clutch fluid more often would be a solution to this problem?
Maybe I am stupid but if the seal is only going bad why not just replace seal when repairing? Why $400 for parts? Also any symptoms of a slave going bad?
Maybe I am stupid but if the seal is only going bad why not just replace seal when repairing? Why $400 for parts? Also any symptoms of a slave going bad?
$210 for the clutch kit, $115 for the slave cylinder, few dollars here and there for seals and fluids.
Oh, and perhaps a ~$200(?) to get the flywheel resurfaced.
I'm still wondering where exactly this seal is. I'm guessing it's not easily accessible? And, might as well replace it (as it's is the throw-out bearing...)
Symptoms of a bad slave:
-car leaks brake/clutch fluid
-clutch goes down and doesn't come back up!
Well, what I'm expecting to pay is $700~$800 for labor and ~$400 for parts.
That's what I said at first. Others said higher. I did look at the other slave cylinder thread and 1500 seems average. It is still bad for a 20 cent piece of rubber (or whatever it is made of). I guess that with a MY 2004 (purchased June 2003) that I am lucky (with 42k miles) that I have not had to have the slave cylinder replaced.
Well, your foot will add force. The spring is pretty light.
So, stressing the diaphragm spring is a bad thing as well...?
Or, regardless of the fact that the throw-out bearing is always spinning, the extra force from having your foot on it will cause it to wear differently/more?
Ya, the 2nd. Although I don't think I've seen anyone wear out the throwout bearing on these before the seal.
In fact, I've been rethinking my "no foot on the clutch" rule that is designed to save the throwout bearing; Think about it. If you take your foot off the clutch at every stop, instead of leaving it pressed to the floor, you stroke the seal twice as much...
Instead of pushing in the clutch when you're going to stop just pull it out of gear. I'm sure you already know what i'm talking about. Done properly it won't damage a thing.
Instead of pushing in the clutch when you're going to stop just pull it out of gear. I'm sure you already know what i'm talking about. Done properly it won't damage a thing.
I do it all the time.
Works easier at high altitude.
Any chance the clutch shock limiter can be a root cause of seal failures? It's an air vent pipe that attaches to the slave cylinder/throw-out bearing. A valve in here takes the hydraulic pressure off of the throw-out bearing when shifting. I wonder if this pressure is also felt at the seal. It was revised at some point.
EDIT: by reading other threads, I guess it can, and it's called a torque limiter.
Modified by S60R1 at 2:38 PM 7-16-2009
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