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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I have a 06 XC90 V8 and having this shudder issue at around 1500-2000 RPM. It has 166K miles and I don't know about the history of the maintenance.
I recently replaced compressor, condenser, tensioner, two pulleys, belt and spark plugs. It runs pretty good except this issue.
I am planning to flush the system with Type IV fluid and add this additive that I got from amazon that should help the issue however in case it doesn't I will probably need to replace the torque converter.

Does anybody know a good place that rebuilds and sells torque converters? Would you agree on my plan doing the flush first and try? Any other advice? Thanks in advance.

This is what am planning to add after the flush.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JMLQU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Upper and lower torque mounts been replaced? If this is the original top, for sure the rubber mount inside has shrunk and the horizontal flats are hard as a rock. The bottom likes to break on the smaller rear section, you can detach the back and give it a wiggle (should be relatively solid front to back with just a little flex) to see if it's okay. I might check front/rear pads and side mount (under crank pulley) and subframe bushings as well to make sure they're whole, just so you cover it all.

I would change the fluid as you suggest with T-IV, at this mileage one option is a drain/fill over time (measure what comes out of the bottom and replace same 3-4 times?) but that's not for me to suggest. Do some reading and make a decision for yourself how you wish to do the change.

I might not put any additive in though, it's something you can easily do later.


Interesting you mention this, couple folk have brought up torque converters over the last couple years but then I thought I recalled a person who worked on Volvos for a living suggesting he had never seen a failed TC on this variant.

Could also be a problem axle I suppose, someone else can help figure that one out.

Might be good to get a DICE and read the car, see if any TCM codes are popping up that align with this issue. Since you've alread spent a decent amount of money on this vehicle, it's a very sound investment that will pay for itself over time.
 

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I've got the 07 XC90 V8 and had the shuddering issue as well. Having the torque converter rebuilt completely solved the issue.
 

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I have similar shudder around 2,000 rpm but on 3.2 I6. Not sure if it shares transmission with the V8 engine. Curious the approximate cost for the torque converter rebuild?

Going to try drain and refill with new fluid first.
 

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It was around $3,600NZ. Most of the cost is in the labour of getting the thing in and out. Cost of the rebuild is only about $300.
 

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Couple other threads relating to TC anomalies- https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?332649-Vibration-at-1500-2k-RPM-05-XC90-V8, https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?267585-Driveline-clunks-ideas , looks like I added some general torque converter info in the last post.

I may have to walk back my previous statement about not seeing many TCs being replaced. I think it could well be a concern as based on some of the historical posts.


For the person above replacing their TC, let us know what the angle gear input splines look like when it comes off. Parts are super expensive ($1500 for angle gear alone) but if you can swing it, you might consider doing this job as well.
 

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I'm in the same boat. '06 v8 currently at 167k Mi. I had some nasty shudder around the same band in 1st and 2nd. On Sunday I did a flush per these instructions https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?204760-How-To-XC90-6-speed-transmission-fluid-flush with 14 quarts of Mobil 3309 (cheapest I found was at Summit Racing: 26.99 for 6qt).

After the flush the shudder is gone, but I wouldn't call it fixed. If I accelerate any quicker than what I consider "normal", the engine will rev without accelerating the car. I compare it to feathering the clutch in a manual transmission with the accelerator depressed. I can tell the transmission isn't fully engaged, but it still accelerates. I was thinking I may have let too much fluid out when draining per VIDA instructions - I had overfilled it a bit and when I looked back at the computer after putting the level plug in the bottom, trans oil temp was 63degrees C.

So I've ordered 2 more quarts of 3309 and will try to get the level correct again. Delivery should be Friday so I'll let you know what happens. For those a little more knowledgeable, is it problematic to overfill the transmission?

Keep us posted on the Torque converter replacement. I know I'm interested in the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey guys,*
I have an update for you all. After placing the order on Ebay for the TQ, the seller contacted me and told me that they don't have this particular TQ so I cancelled the order however I still resolved the issue by changing the fluid by the drain and fill method.*
I bought about 16 quarts of Toyota type IV transmission fluid. drained and filled it with the same amount came out. I also drove the vehicle a few miles pretty hard between the fluid changes and I don't feel shuttering anymore. It took about 3-4 weeks to notice shuttering is gone. Therefore I highly recommend you all to do this method before replacing that sucker and spend money on. Hopefully it will work out for you guys too.
 

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Hey guys,*
I have an update for you all. After placing the order on Ebay for the TQ, the seller contacted me and told me that they don't have this particular TQ so I cancelled the order however I still resolved the issue by changing the fluid by the drain and fill method.*
I bought about 16 quarts of Toyota type IV transmission fluid. drained and filled it with the same amount came out. I also drove the vehicle a few miles pretty hard between the fluid changes and I don't feel shuttering anymore. It took about 3-4 weeks to notice shuttering is gone. Therefore I highly recommend you all to do this method before replacing that sucker and spend money on. Hopefully it will work out for you guys too.
Yeah I did this. Had the fluid completely changed and thought it took care of the problem, but 1000-1500 mi later it’s starting rear it’s ugly head again. It mainly shows up on o long steep hill near our house. It’s about a 35-40degree pull for a few hundred yards from almost a dead stop at around 25-30 under a moderate throttle you can feel it. It’s subtle but it’s there. I’m driving an 09 Rdesign V8 with about 74k on the clock and we’ve owned since 44k. Most maintenance performed except for the Haldex unit.


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Hey guys,*
I have an update for you all. After placing the order on Ebay for the TQ, the seller contacted me and told me that they don't have this particular TQ so I cancelled the order however I still resolved the issue by changing the fluid by the drain and fill method.*
I bought about 16 quarts of Toyota type IV transmission fluid. drained and filled it with the same amount came out. I also drove the vehicle a few miles pretty hard between the fluid changes and I don't feel shuttering anymore. It took about 3-4 weeks to notice shuttering is gone. Therefore I highly recommend you all to do this method before replacing that sucker and spend money on. Hopefully it will work out for you guys too.
Replacing the same amount that came out isn't likely to give you the right fluid level unfortunately. Get the transmission fluid temp up to 50-60c then, with the engine running, open the smaller torx drain plug on the transmission. If nothing comes out you probably underfilled it and need to add some more and repeat this process to ensure the proper level. If some fluid does come out then you overfilled it but it's now at the proper level. This video has a great explanation of the the whole process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAb9p8Wph-M
 
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