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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
since i get a lot of pm's about shimming i will show you in more of a detail how i shim for high hp/boost...i could not find any over-sized 81.5 mm pistons cheap so I had it bored out to 83 mm and since i have all R internal sitting around from my R, this is going to be a back up engine for my 850 with all of my original s60r internals, pistons, rods and crank... Shims are still designed so you do not create air-pocket under the shims just like before with an exception of being locked to the block from each side and the reason why for that is I noticed a movement with 2 of the shims in my s60 2.3l block which produces over 420 awhp tuned to 30 psi by Hilton tuning.... once the head/bolts gave and allowed the warpage of the head which caused the compression to go back and forth in-between the cylinders, thus the pressure was able to move them...which means the movement only happened do to failure but it was to a point of annoyance for me do designed them not to move at all.


left , older version vs right , new that locks in design...either will work unless you have failure.






























got this entire pcv system from a local u-pull it JY for 11$ from a 2006 2.5t that was recently all replaced...it is nice and soft. :D

and my R pistons that will be going in this block.

 

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Nice dougy! i almost sent you a pm about these new shims but i figured you might post something. ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Nice work Dougy! I have a question that maybe has been brought up before. How much thicker are the t5 liners bored out to 83mm than the stock 2.5R liners? Thanks for your time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks guys.

Zedyakuza they are not thicker...the outside liner circumference from 1994 t5 or any t5 is the same exact dimension as our 2.5l blocks...all volvo did is made them into a larger displacement by going from 2.3 81mm and boring them out to 2.5l 83mm internally thus making the 2.5l sleeves/block weaker...also , the newer the white block is the thicker are the cuts between the sleeves...their theory is more coolant flow but yet you find more cracked sleeves right in that area...I've heard the newest white blocks 2010 and up dont have the cuts as deep thus creating / giving / coping the idea of pushing the shims down and leaving that gap at the top...which would make volvo corp. look like they were never wrong in first place...but i have yet to see a newer white block opened up to see for myself.
 

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The first shims I saw on here were bent so as to wrap around the cylinders and stop walking, they also wouldn't interfere with coolant flow. I'm not sure where the post is now.

Since i still have my 2.5 and with 275000kms on it I am looking very closely at shimming just for insurance.

Has anybody had a cracked block after shimming? What is the theoretical boost that we could run with a shimmed block?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The first shims I saw on here were bent so as to wrap around the cylinders and stop walking, they also wouldn't interfere with coolant flow. I'm not sure where the post is now.

Since i still have my 2.5 and with 275000kms on it I am looking very closely at shimming just for insurance.

Has anybody had a cracked block after shimming? What is the theoretical boost that we could run with a shimmed block?

any shimming is better than none, especially if you plan to get tune/high boost...if you look closely at this 2.3l block pic running over 500hp for 40k with shims pushed down and leaving a 3mm gap at the top ,clearly you see it is still being pressed inward where the shim is missing at the top and the half moon heat spot created at the bottom from the round cut of the groove blocked by the shim since the coolant does not flow there...like i said before either way works but i just like/prefer to shim flush with the deck leaving the coolant to move at the bottom, not that it actually does something cooling-wise but when i scope my blocks they don't have that and since it is impossible to fill that half moon cut at the bottom I rather have coolant there and be stronger at the top where all crack originate....i am almost certain that 2.5l block with shims pressed down will crack at high HP eventually...




also i like to use cheap steel feeler gauges.

http://www.engineersedge.com/properties_of_metals.htm
 

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I shimmed mine with 6061 aluminum shims with ends bent like above pic to help keep from walking. There is a couple mm gap at top of mine. I did this with the Cavalli turbo install about 14k miles ago with just over 120k on the clock (I'm the original owner FWIW). Been running ~24 psi since. I recently did a combustion gas check and it was clean so they are doing the job. Motor will not last forever though so a build is coming... Audi is getting one first however thanks to the clutch finally giving up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I shimmed mine with 6061 aluminum shims with ends bent like above pic to help keep from walking. There is a couple mm gap at top of mine. I did this with the Cavalli turbo install about 14k miles ago with just over 120k on the clock (I'm the original owner FWIW). Been running ~24 psi since. I recently did a combustion gas check and it was clean so they are doing the job. Motor will not last forever though so a build is coming... Audi is getting one first however thanks to the clutch finally giving up.
you should dyno it.
 

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The first shims I saw on here were bent so as to wrap around the cylinders and stop walking, they also wouldn't interfere with coolant flow. I'm not sure where the post is now.

Since i still have my 2.5 and with 275000kms on it I am looking very closely at shimming just for insurance.

Has anybody had a cracked block after shimming? What is the theoretical boost that we could run with a shimmed block?
You're telling me... 288890miles on my 2.5l... I've resigned myself to a large capital expenditure for a sleeved block in my future. If you add up all of the little things that number gets shockingly large rather quickly.
 

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I know, I know... dyno... just not priority right now. Just had a third kid 2 weeks ago and trying to finish a major home renovation. Car stuff has been on the back burner although the clutch on the S4 is going to spawn an engine build for it... just need to find the time to tear into it. Speaking of which, here comes the baby again. My turn. Now what's the story on your engine - did you pop a head gasket or something? I just saw your post showing pics with the head off and new shims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I know, I know... dyno... just not priority right now. Just had a third kid 2 weeks ago and trying to finish a major home renovation. Car stuff has been on the back burner although the clutch on the S4 is going to spawn an engine build for it... just need to find the time to tear into it. Speaking of which, here comes the baby again. My turn. Now what's the story on your engine - did you pop a head gasket or something? I just saw your post showing pics with the head off and new shims.

when i scoped it Element 3rd cylinder facing exhaust side , to me it looked like there was a coolant drip...I actually thought it was a cracked sleeve not at the shimmed area but in the back of the block but suspected maybe the bolts just gave with 30psi of properly tuned 20g producing boost...even though it ran perfect I took it apart to I did find out head was warped so it was shaved and i got got APR head studs and i went with volvo oem mls gasket insdeat of reinz...I was not surprised since a that point I have had about 250-300 wot pull equivalent to 1/3 mile runs of testing "speed wise" ...i really think at high boost level you need those studs so will see if that is a factor ot not ...also ,people on here making statement that this car does not make HP and it just boost I really don't even know how or what to respond to that cause I have yet to see a dyno of anyone on here with a stock engine making 420 awhp...and thats by my maf read out...dyno i did was one single pull with 401 awhp at 25 psi...whatever I did as far as dyno , is what everyone always asked for, now that they have that, i just read excuses which to me almost seem those people are on crack in reading their response.
 

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Dougy based on your Turbo I have no doubt on your HP output with a stock block. I was surprised that I never looked at my configuration before putting the Majestic Turbo on , I was able to get a seconed new one and was surprised to find its a 6 wheel design. At this point I'm glad Lucky is keeping the boost to 23 as the Turbo is capable of 25psi. I will post my stock block numbers next week when we get the car back on the Dyno. Although I'm a bit worried about the lack holding power on the stock head bolts. Do you think I should have them re torqued dougy ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Dougy based on your Turbo I have no doubt on your HP output with a stock block. I was surprised that I never looked at my configuration before putting the Majestic Turbo on , I was able to get a seconed new one and was surprised to find its a 6 wheel design. At this point I'm glad Lucky is keeping the boost to 23 as the Turbo is capable of 25psi. I will post my stock block numbers next week when we get the car back on the Dyno. Although I'm a bit worried about the lack holding power on the stock head bolts. Do you think I should have them re torqued dougy ?

unless you have arp head studs , you can't re-torque torque to yield regular bolts.
 

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Thank you so much for sharing this kind of info Dougy!

One of the things I looked at first on this site was common issues these cars/ engines have under increased boost. Because of this I am (at some point) planning on picking up a spare 2.3 or 2.4 block to build up and have on hand for when I either blow up this one or get tired of it :)
 

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not a problem...when you do get one , just make sure the block you get is 81mm bore.
Dougy,

i'm considering doing this on a spare block to buildup my NedCar. 00' V40. It's a 2.0T, 83mm bore, 90mm stroke. I assume it's internally the same block as a 2.5 just one cylinder short. Should i even bother shimming it or would I be better served sourcing an 81mm bore block from a euro model T4?

My previous S40 build handled 20psi daily for over 100K without hiccup on a stock 2.0T bottom end with a 14T turbo(made 256whp). The new build would be getting something like a GT28RS, quick spooling but still pushing around 300-350hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I would want thicker 81mm bore sleeves and if you going to push more hp out of it and I would shim it since you'll have it apart..and if you are not having any problems with your current setup at 256 I would not tear into something that is not broken.
 

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I would want thicker 81mm bore sleeves and if you going to push more hp out of it and I would shim it since you'll have it apart..and if you are not having any problems with your current setup at 256 I would not tear into something that is not broken.
Makes sense. Then i'll skip the 2.0T build altogether and do this to a T5 block for my S60. :cool:
 

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I found some hardened steel feeler gauges 200mm x 13mm with a thickness from 0.05 to 1.00 mm (.002 - .040 inch) in 20 steps.
Should fit?

What was the average thickness you needed, any above 1mm?
 
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