[DekraDTM]

Hi all,

I have a 2006 V70R 6speed manual transmission vehicle with about 163,000 miles. In Oct 2011, it was determined I had a sticking front caliper, so it was replaced with a used unit with 60,000 miles on it. Front rotors were replaced (1 OEM, 1 nonOEM) and brake pads (not OEM). The non OEM stuff was supplied gratis from the dealer I bought the car from in Vermont. The mechanics that worked on the car failed to make strong recommendations against non-OEM pads, which is why I think the rotors were glazed by January. Around that time, I started getting a pronounced wheel shake. I took the car in to another mechanic, and they told me the front rotors were blue and needed to be replaced. OEM rotors and pads were replaced. They also said a lower control arm needed to be replaced. They said to do the brakes first, then the control arm, if the shaking was still present.

I picked up the car, and the wheel shake when braking was less pronounced, but I believe it wasn't obvious because I wasn't braking hard during the warm-up/break-in period for the brakes.

It's early May, and about a month, 1200+ miles and after doing an $700 brake job, I have a wheel shake again. What do you think it can be? Is it that control arm? Do I have warped rotors due to defect, or from the other 163,000 (original) caliper? Are the rotors warping because I have a sloppy control arm? Or, am I just braking too hard? What causes wheel shake in the steering wheel like this?

Also, I am replacing all four tires because today, when I went for an inspection, you could see the wheels were peeling on the inside. I'll also be getting an alignment.


Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions. I'm happy to answer any questions that might help solve the mystery.

Hunter

 

[thaxman]

Hi all,

I have a 2006 V70R 6speed manual transmission vehicle with about 163,000 miles. In Oct 2011, it was determined I had a sticking front caliper, so it was replaced with a used unit with 60,000 miles on it. Front rotors were replaced (1 OEM, 1 nonOEM) and brake pads (not OEM). The non OEM stuff was supplied gratis from the dealer I bought the car from in Vermont. The mechanics that worked on the car failed to make strong recommendations against non-OEM pads, which is why I think the rotors were glazed by January. Around that time, I started getting a pronounced wheel shake. I took the car in to another mechanic, and they told me the front rotors were blue and needed to be replaced. OEM rotors and pads were replaced. They also said a lower control arm needed to be replaced. They said to do the brakes first, then the control arm, if the shaking was still present.

I picked up the car, and the wheel shake when braking was less pronounced, but I believe it wasn't obvious because I wasn't braking hard during the warm-up/break-in period for the brakes.

It's early May, and about a month, 1200+ miles and after doing an $700 brake job, I have a wheel shake again. What do you think it can be? Is it that control arm? Do I have warped rotors due to defect, or from the other 163,000 (original) caliper? Are the rotors warping because I have a sloppy control arm? Or, am I just braking too hard? What causes wheel shake in the steering wheel like this?

Also, I am replacing all four tires because today, when I went for an inspection, you could see the wheels were peeling on the inside. I'll also be getting an alignment.

Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions. I'm happy to answer any questions that might help solve the mystery.

Hunter

Who made the pads? What composition are they?

I ask b/c I have had bad wheel shake upon braking w/2 diff cars (non Volvo)
Scenario #1: Subaru Legacy, my usual brake shop did the job, no probs at all until we began making our usual 250 mi freeway road trips. Slowing from 80 downhill we got a NASTY shake, but it couldn't be replicated anytime or anywhere else. They had the car multiple times & finally upgraded the pads to full metallic & the shake was gone.
Scenario #2: Mazda5, real nasty shake EVERY decel from 50+ mph. AFAIK OE (read: crappy) brakes. The Mazda5 forum got into a really detailed discussion on crappy pads & ghost marks when one really heats up the pads & then comes to a stop and SITS (like the Sube when we would wait to make a left turn at the off-ramp) So, based on those 2 experiences, I wonder if you have ghost pad marks on your rotors that need to be sanded off or the rotors turned (sanding is cheap...or even free)

 

[JRL]

You CANNOT mix rotors, so get rid of the incorrect front rotor, buy the correct rotor and start from there

 

[BMac_R]

I love linking my own threads...DOOOOOOO ITTTTTT DRT STYLE.

 

[prienzo]

You CANNOT mix rotors, so get rid of the incorrect front rotor, buy the correct rotor and start from there

I could be wrong, but from reading his post, I believe he did eventually replace with OEM rotors and pads.

 

[nucciOMG]

I have a similar problem- braking (medium force) I get a shake in the steering wheel. I have new HAWK HPS pads, and OEM rotors. I didn't replace them this time, so I'm not sure why I'd be having a shake? Bedded the pads properly too.

(PS- no vibrations with my old pads and same rotors.)

 

[dougy]

Hi all,

I have a 2006 V70R 6speed manual transmission vehicle with about 163,000 miles. In Oct 2011, it was determined I had a sticking front caliper, so it was replaced with a used unit with 60,000 miles on it. Front rotors were replaced (1 OEM, 1 nonOEM) and brake pads (not OEM). The non OEM stuff was supplied gratis from the dealer I bought the car from in Vermont. The mechanics that worked on the car failed to make strong recommendations against non-OEM pads, which is why I think the rotors were glazed by January. Around that time, I started getting a pronounced wheel shake. I took the car in to another mechanic, and they told me the front rotors were blue and needed to be replaced. OEM rotors and pads were replaced. They also said a lower control arm needed to be replaced. They said to do the brakes first, then the control arm, if the shaking was still present.

I picked up the car, and the wheel shake when braking was less pronounced, but I believe it wasn't obvious because I wasn't braking hard during the warm-up/break-in period for the brakes.

It's early May, and about a month, 1200+ miles and after doing an $700 brake job, I have a wheel shake again. What do you think it can be? Is it that control arm? Do I have warped rotors due to defect, or from the other 163,000 (original) caliper? Are the rotors warping because I have a sloppy control arm? Or, am I just braking too hard? What causes wheel shake in the steering wheel like this?

Also, I am replacing all four tires because today, when I went for an inspection, you could see the wheels were peeling on the inside. I'll also be getting an alignment.

Thanks in advance for any tips or suggestions. I'm happy to answer any questions that might help solve the mystery.

Hunter

sounds like and I quote "sounds" rotors are warped...I would want to buy a pair and not two different brands and whatever pads you have is not a good combo with the rotors as well...assuming it everything else is OK with braking system...I would try to re-cut the rotors and get new OEM pads...that's is the cheap way...but two different rotors would bug me even if it worked out.

 

[DekraDTM]

Pads and rotors are OEM, brand new as of last month. Still think it is brakes? They hardly have 1000 miles....

It's gotta be something else. Why does it keep coming back the same way after some time?? What could warp my rotors after a few months? I would say the brake caliper. Ideas? That is one of the only things that touches the pads which touch the rotors.

Anyone got bets on the control arms?

H

 

[Paisley Pirate]

Not to get too esoteric here (and my first bet would be rotors that are warped as well... ) but I would be looking at this point at all the rotor mounting hardware... the caliper pins/bolts and any caliper mounting rubber parts as well. With that many miles, reusing them is asking for weird in the brakes. They get heat soak just like the calipers/rotors etc. as well.

Trust me on this, I have the undisputed KING of rotor warping, the Ford Taurus... Breathe on them hard, and they are bent... sucks but true. Getting my wife to baby the brakes has been near on impossible...one of the reasons I love our R so much, she can't thrash those brakes hard enough to warp them out... (I know, courting disaster saying this)

You may well be having a caliper issue on the old v new caliper, but that normally will cause a pull, not a vibration... again, "normally".

Also, you may want to look at wheel bearings. At this mileage, it could be a loading issue on braking that causes them to vibrate, when going forward, they are fine. Sounds weird, but I have run into that before as well.

Good luck with it!

 

[pie_ya]

I get the same "shaking when braking" issue from a higher speed for a longer brake. I have OEM rotors and I forget which brake pads. I have bedded them correctly. I was thinking it might be a suspension problem (bushings, LCA, tie rods, ball joints...that kind of thing) but I am not sure.

It only happens when braking for a longer time as I can brake very hard for a short decel and I don't have any problems. That points me away from warped rotors.

Let us know if/when you find out.

 

[DekraDTM]

Just replaced front wheel bearings last November - cant be them. Maybe it's something small in the braking system up front... My rear rotors and pads could probably be replaced, but steeringwheel shake does not usually occur due to rear brake issues, right?

Anyone feel me on lower control arms? Bear in mind my tires were balding on the insides, due to an alignment issue..

 

[DekraDTM]

Anyone?

New tires and alignment did nothing, as expected.

Also, where can I get my calipers rebuilt, if that is my best option in solving the mystery.

Hunter

 

[DekraDTM]

New update --

I had both lower control arms replaced with Meyle HD arms, and brand new OEM brembo rotors were installed (warranty replacement). The issue went away for about 500 miles, where I did not notice a shake once. HOWEVER, I pulled into town today, and I can feel the shake coming back.

I am convinced both calipers need to be replaced. Am I missing something here??

Hunter

 

[scooby]

Have the wheel hubs machined.

 

[swimndrive]

New update --

I had both lower control arms replaced with Meyle HD arms, and brand new OEM brembo rotors were installed (warranty replacement). The issue went away for about 500 miles, where I did not notice a shake once. HOWEVER, I pulled into town today, and I can feel the shake coming back.

I am convinced both calipers need to be replaced. Am I missing something here??

Hunter

Hi Hunter,

Did you get your issue fixed? I am having similar problem like you had. When I brake at high way speed, the steering wheel vibrates strongly. After the car slows down, the vibrations stops. I would like to know did you fix the problem. Thx

 

[djkronik57]

Hmm, when you said the rotor was "blue" that kind of throws up a flag. Go for a quick drive around your neighborhood, normal braking and when you get back, see if there is a discernible difference in caliper/rotor temp (BE CAREFUL, you can burn yourself, use a laser thermometer if you have one). If one of your calipers is stuck and dragging a pad, it could cause excessive heat turning the rotor blue and leading to deposits that could cause shaking. However, this would also usually (usually) cause the car to pull to one side with the stuck caliper, but if you have other issues it could be covered up.

Are you bedding your new rotors/pads properly?

Also as stated above, make sure the rotor to hub mating surfaces are all clean (no rust/dust/grime). If the rotor isn't on straight it'll cause this issue as well.

Like was said, never brake hard to a stop and leave your pads cooking on the rotors.

 

[iamtheshaner]

Hi Hunter,

Did you get your issue fixed? I am having similar problem like you had. When I brake at high way speed, the steering wheel vibrates strongly. After the car slows down, the vibrations stops. I would like to know did you fix the problem. Thx

There is a lot of misconception about this issue. Your wheel shakes because your rotors have thin spots. Most people call this warping. Its due to lateral runout in the hub. New rotors will only temporarily fix it. The best band aid is to use an on-car lathe to resurface the disks. It will true the rotor to the centerline of the hub effectively cutting the runout out of the assemby and matching the rotor to the hub.

 

[DekraDTM]

There is a lot of misconception about this issue. Your wheel shakes because your rotors have thin spots. Most people call this warping. Its due to lateral runout in the hub. New rotors will only temporarily fix it. The best band aid is to use an on-car lathe to resurface the disks. It will true the rotor to the centerline of the hub effectively cutting the runout out of the assemby and matching the rotor to the hub.

I wish I had known this. I actually sold the car because of this issue. Now, nearly seven years later, I would like another V70R... I am glad to know that this is because of hub issues, which I assume could just be replaced to bring everything back to life.

 

[Hounddogger]

I doubt it was runout. Maybe a wheel bearing or sticky brake pad.

 

[DekraDTM]

I doubt it was runout. Maybe a wheel bearing or sticky brake pad.

And, I doubt you read this thread carefully..