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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some weeks ago I replaced my spark plugs. Everything went fine. I drove without issues for at least 2 weeks. After this the car started to stutter (flutter or whatever you call it) severely when pushing it hard at full throttle. I talked to my service guy and he suggested to look for vacuum leaks or jammed cable under the coil top cover. I removed the cover and checked all connections and cables to the coils and everything was fine. I checked the air pipes, specifically the over the engine pipe because I removed this when changing the plugs. I replaced the o-ring by the turbo since it was not tightening enough and jumped when tightening. After this, the car still stutters severely at full throttle. It's hard to explain, but it kind of sounds like driving with 4 flat tires and running out of gas. :)
I have no Check engine light and the only code that I can get out is that common MAF sensor code. I've had this several times before but it has not been the MAF sensor.
I've had the OTE pipe come off one time before but that just goes into limp mode with no power at all. This is different. The car runs fairly OK if I do not push it and just drive it like a grandma.i :)
Might have noticed a little more fuel consumption the past weeks.

What can be wrong?
Some R drivers here has suggested bad coils. My service guy suggest fuel sensor. Note that no diagnosis has been run.
I don't want to spend too much on just changing components just to find out that was not the issue.

Should I maybe just pay the $150 to have the diagnosis done?
 

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If it’s stuttering like a misfire, check you’ve got the right, extra-long R plugs gapped correctly, if it’s surging/sputtering, check your fuel rail sensor. Cool packs are a good suggestion, too. Also, invest in vida dice, it’s worth it


2007 V70R Ti Grey Nordkap GT, 2008 C30R-Design Black M66
 

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Sounds like coils or plugs and maybe if you go to auto parts store and have them scan it there might be a pending code. IF ends up being coils I have my low mileage stock ones somewhere you can have for cheap if you want. Good luck.
 

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About the only time I've had that happen is shortly after I bought the car and I was running 87 Octane Gas.. First time I'd experienced misfire. So, make sure you're running 91. Otherwise, wrong plug length is a common mistake by R owners.
 

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I'd clean that maf out first with a good cleaner (take it off the car) while doing that check your Tcv lines..if nothing, check coils...if not that then maybe fuel pressure sensor.

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If it’s stuttering like a misfire, check you’ve got the right, extra-long R plugs gapped correctly, if it’s surging/sputtering, check your fuel rail sensor. Cool packs are a good suggestion, too. Also, invest in vida dice, it’s worth it

2007 V70R Ti Grey Nordkap GT, 2008 C30R-Design Black M66
What can I see with a Vida Dice that I cannot see in a regular OBDII reader? Will this point me in the exact right direction or even to the exact part that is bad? For instance if it is the fuel sensor, or the exact coil that might be bad so that I do not have to go through all coils to see which one etc...
 

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What can I see with a Vida Dice that I cannot see in a regular OBDII reader? Will this point me in the exact right direction or even to the exact part that is bad? For instance if it is the fuel sensor, or the exact coil that might be bad so that I do not have to go through all coils to see which one etc...
Just get vida. I'm very broke, still in highschool, and make around $300-350 per paycheck and have to pay insurance and gas. It's hands-down the best investment i have ever made for my R. $225 laptop from Dave Leach and $80 DiCE unit.
 

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exact same thing just happened to me.
I replaced tons of stuff since there were no codes - plugs, coils, TCV, clean the MAF, cleaned the sensor on the intake tube by the turbo...

I think what fixed it though, was when I was replacing all the vac lines and rubber, one of the one way check valves under the intake manifold was completely busted and flowed both ways. I replaced that and all the rubber, and the stutter is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
exact same thing just happened to me.
I replaced tons of stuff since there were no codes - plugs, coils, TCV, clean the MAF, cleaned the sensor on the intake tube by the turbo...

I think what fixed it though, was when I was replacing all the vac lines and rubber, one of the one way check valves under the intake manifold was completely busted and flowed both ways. I replaced that and all the rubber, and the stutter is gone.
What valve was that? Do you have any pictures where to find that?
 

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The hose/line looks like this


Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
I am replacing my EVAP system shortly and am not going to opt to buy a $100 assembly that i could easily replace myself with maybe $15-20 worth of hoses and check valves. Hoses are around 14mm i believe and need to be fuel/oil resistant.
 

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I am replacing my EVAP system shortly and am not going to opt to buy a $100 assembly that i could easily replace myself with maybe $15-20 worth of hoses and check valves. Hoses are around 14mm i believe and need to be fuel/oil resistant.
I wouldn't spend the 100 either. I was told by a few members to go for 8mm ID silicone hose

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just get vida. I'm very broke, still in highschool, and make around $300-350 per paycheck and have to pay insurance and gas. It's hands-down the best investment i have ever made for my R. $225 laptop from Dave Leach and $80 DiCE unit.
Which one is the VIDA/DICE unit I should get? I understand there might be a lot of pirate products online. Where can I get a "real" one?
If you look at this Amazon search, there seems to be many brand names (more or less Chinese sounding).

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=volvo+vi...x=volvo+vida+dice,aps,184&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_15
 

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Which one is the VIDA/DICE unit I should get? I understand there might be a lot of pirate products online. Where can I get a "real" one?
If you look at this Amazon search, there seems to be many brand names (more or less Chinese sounding).

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=volvo+vi...x=volvo+vida+dice,aps,184&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_15
A legit one will run you $1000+ and require legit SW licenses which will be even more money. You'll find the knock offs on ebay. Before you proceed, you need to know that an decent understanding of computers and software install is necessary because you'll be working with .iso files, patches, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I ended up taking the car in to my mechanic. He went through all vacuum lines and hoses and found no leaks, there were no codes at all in the system. He was not able to find it so I basically paid $145 for getting the information that it cannot be found. The stuttering is still there and it is choking when trying to accelerate hard. I've got into trouble a couple of times when I forget about it, changes lanes to speed up and nothing happens, ending up with people running up towards my rear and bonus when I'm going nowhere.
He said it might be the ECU that is broken and gave me a number to an auto ECU mechanic guy to diagnose the ECU.
Not sure what to do from here. 😞
Time for a new car maybe?
 

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I ended up taking the car in to my mechanic. He went through all vacuum lines and hoses and found no leaks, there were no codes at all in the system. He was not able to find it so I basically paid $145 for getting the information that it cannot be found. The stuttering is still there and it is choking when trying to accelerate hard. I've got into trouble a couple of times when I forget about it, changes lanes to speed up and nothing happens, ending up with people running up towards my rear and bonus when I'm going nowhere.
He said it might be the ECU that is broken and gave me a number to an auto ECU mechanic guy to diagnose the ECU.
Not sure what to do from here. 😞
Time for a new car maybe?
You say you replaced your spark plugs, what was the part number of the spark plug?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You say you replaced your spark plugs, what was the part number of the spark plug?
I got Denso spark plugs from IPD.

IPD Item Number: 124993
Brand: Denso (Iridium Long Life Spark Plug)
Manufacturer Part Number: SK20HR11
OE Reference: 30751806
 

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My bet is on your coils. I grabbed one from my old engine and replaced the first one starting from the passenger's side and drove the car. It got rid of the huge stuttering after the first full throttle mash. Just find someone that has used ones and try it out. I also had no error codes and was very slow at full throttle. Also, next time you go to a shop make sure they are experienced on mainly Volvo's since that was the first thing my Volvo mechanic suggested to me.

I have three used ones and someone above has some that they can sell to you for cheap so you should try that first. It is possible that it is more than one coil depending on how slow it is. For me it was just one coil and the first one I replaced.
 

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Spark plug is correct, so next step is checking coils as pie_ya described.
 
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