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2016 V60 T5 here, my mpg has gone down the drain over the past 5K miles roughly. After getting the car back from the last service, (7yr/70K mile service, performed at 72K), I noticed the mileage slowly dwindling starting soon after. I'm struggling to get anywhere over 27-28 MPG on the highway. I took a trip from Sacramento to Phoenix 3 days ago and averaged 25.2, granted I was pushing the car harder. However, I've taken two trips on the highway in Phoenix, with extremely light traffic conditions and cruise control set at 72 mph both times, and the MPG reset before entering onto the highway. The first one, I averaged 27.3 mpg, and the second was 26.7 mpg. In the past, I got roughly 33-35 MPG in these conditions. City mpg seems to be around 21-23 on average. EPA is 25 city/37 highway MPG for reference.

I've also calculated tank mpg by hand to make sure its not the trip computer, and it isn't. In fact, the trip computer estimates the mpg high by a couple percent but that doesn't really concern me too much.

Every service has been done according to the service schedule. The car had its plugs done at 60K, and the engine air filter replaced at 70K most recently.

Anyone else had any similar experiences? Did you ever manage to find a fix? I'm tempted to take it into the dealer but "MPG issues" seems a little broad and it just seems unlikely to me that anything will come of the complaint.
 

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Did you check under the hood to make sure they didn't leave something unplugged or some vaccuum hose unconnected?
 

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2020 V90 Inscription T6 (all options except upgrade stereo and rear wheel air suspension)
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Check the tire psi, in case the shop chaged.
 

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I generally lose around 3-4 MPG in the same driving conditions and scenarios in the winter (my commute is ~80% highway and in sixth gear). I attribute it to winter gas blends. Each year for the past four winters I've seen the MPG tank to 22-23 MPG only to see it level back out to 25-26 MPG or so when spring arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you check under the hood to make sure they didn't leave something unplugged or some vaccuum hose unconnected?
Took a look, everything seems fine.
Check the tire psi, in case the shop chaged.
Definitely! I check it pretty regularly so it’s not that but I did change the tires about 7000 miles ago, so the new set may just be worse for mileage as well.
I generally lose around 3-4 MPG in the same driving conditions and scenarios in the winter (my commute is ~80% highway and in sixth gear). I attribute it to winter gas blends. Each year for the past four winters I've seen the MPG tank to 22-23 MPG only to see it level back out to 25-26 MPG or so when spring arrives.
It wouldn’t surprise me at all if it all came down to this, combined with my new tires. I guess I’ll have to wait till spring to see if anything changes then though to be sure (provided it doesn’t drop more).
 

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2020 V90 Inscription T6 (all options except upgrade stereo and rear wheel air suspension)
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I typically buy Michelin tires. Once. I switched to high priced Pirellis. The result was a big decrease in mpg, much more tire noise and a harder ride. IMO tires can have a big impact on mpg.
 

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You have enough miles on it to suspect a wheel bearing. I kept looking for "missing" miles on a Lexus ES, could find no reason, like dropping from 29/30 to 24 hwy mpg - similar loss to yours and a little too much to explain away w/tires or gas blend - possibly, but enough to think about it.

I found mine 1st by just having a couple drinks. Because she drove home that night and it was apparent when I rode in the passenger frt seat - could never feel it via the wheel or driver's seat. But even failing that, lift the front end and spin each wheel in Neutral. Place one hand on a spring coil and feel for vibration. This is usually the best test if you can't detect noise, etc. A failed bearing often rumbles, but it can be entirely silent and unnoticeable from the driver's position.

There are other causes but this would be at the top of my ddx.

Another possibility if you are in the rust belt is a seized caliper bolt. Usually you can find this easily by going around and feeling the hubs after some city driving. The dragging caliper will transmit a lot of heat to the hub and wheel. it will be distinctly hotter than the others (and perhaps burn you, be careful). Given year/mileage, I put bearing higher on the suspect list.
 

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2016 V60 T5 here, my mpg has gone down the drain over the past 5K miles roughly. After getting the car back from the last service, (7yr/70K mile service, performed at 72K), I noticed the mileage slowly dwindling starting soon after. I'm struggling to get anywhere over 27-28 MPG on the highway. I took a trip from Sacramento to Phoenix 3 days ago and averaged 25.2, granted I was pushing the car harder. However, I've taken two trips on the highway in Phoenix, with extremely light traffic conditions and cruise control set at 72 mph both times, and the MPG reset before entering onto the highway. The first one, I averaged 27.3 mpg, and the second was 26.7 mpg. In the past, I got roughly 33-35 MPG in these conditions. City mpg seems to be around 21-23 on average. EPA is 25 city/37 highway MPG for reference.

I've also calculated tank mpg by hand to make sure its not the trip computer, and it isn't. In fact, the trip computer estimates the mpg high by a couple percent but that doesn't really concern me too much.

Every service has been done according to the service schedule. The car had its plugs done at 60K, and the engine air filter replaced at 70K most recently.

Anyone else had any similar experiences? Did you ever manage to find a fix? I'm tempted to take it into the dealer but "MPG issues" seems a little broad and it just seems unlikely to me that anything will come of the complaint.
Elevation, inclines, etc can all impact MPG. It's not as if you are driving on flat surfaces the entire way. Tire pressure can again impact MPG, too. The use of ECO Mode will increase mileage by revving down the RPM's.
 

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True, but it seems he's indicating that he's driving a common route in Phoenix currently and getting dissimilar results to previous expectations.

Other mechanical concerns could be valid.
Bearing? Most wheel bearing failures are very noticeable. I mean really noticeable, with either noise or with clicking/wobbling during driving. No indication from OP he has these issues.
Caliper? Maybe... but you would also hear scraping typically with a stuck caliper causing the pad to scrape against the rotor. But your idea of checking the temperature of the caliper is a sound one just to be safe.

I would buy an OBDLink (or any cheap ELM clone) and use Dashcommand/Torque/etc. to monitor engine parameters (fuel trims, AFR, MAP, mass flow rate, etc) to see if they are in line with expectations. Like Almaz indicated, there could be a vacuum leak or something else that can easily be diagnosed with the OBD tool.

Winter gas blend and cold start/driving conditions can easily cause a large MPG drop. Cold starts take much longer, the transmission is more viscous until it gets up to temperature. All these things are additive and can cause large drops. Like I indicated, I regularly see 22-23 MPG on 80% highway driving (100 mile/day commute) in the winter and 25-26 MPG on the same exact conditions in the summer. It was concerning enough for me during my first year of S60 ownership that I started tracking the MPG closely; I realized this cycle repeated for me each winter and has been consistent for the past three years.
 

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Elevation, inclines, etc can all impact MPG. It's not as if you are driving on flat surfaces the entire way. Tire pressure can again impact MPG, too. The use of ECO Mode will increase mileage by revving down the RPM's.
Since you were in the same boat, do you think it can have anything to do with oil burning from the piston ring debacle? If the rings are clogged and creating excess friction, but possibly not burning oil at a high rate (yet), is this plausible?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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Since you were in the same boat, do you think it can have anything to do with oil burning from the piston ring debacle? If the rings are clogged and creating excess friction, but possibly not burning oil at a high rate (yet), is this plausible?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
For the oil consumption issue, don't depress the gas pedal, hold in the start button, and then go to the menu to check oil levels. I doubt consumption issue is Op's problem, but it never hurts to keep an eye on one's oil level. Especially with the prospect of these cars burning oil. The digital dipstick should only be missing one notch. If it ever shows 2 or goes to low, you've got an issue.

Only connection I could fathom between oil consumption and gasoline usage is if the piston rings are trashed (scored), your fuel economy would go to hell.

P-Rico offers some solid advice to OP. To build upon his point, my MPG have decreased by about 5 MPG in winter, even though I am exclusively a highway driver. Cold weather makes the car work harder. I generally average around 29-30 MPH and my trip odometer is putting me around 24-25..
 

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I found a real nice write-up on the (U.S.) government's pages on cold weather fuel economy which basically reiterates these points here from our forum posts. Fuel Economy in Cold Weather

I will say that this car has been the greatest affected by weather than my other 8 cars I've owned. Even in very rainy conditions, I can see the difference in gas mileage due to tire grip (not as drastic, but still noticeable, to the order of 1-2 MPG).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You have enough miles on it to suspect a wheel bearing. I kept looking for "missing" miles on a Lexus ES, could find no reason, like dropping from 29/30 to 24 hwy mpg - similar loss to yours and a little too much to explain away w/tires or gas blend - possibly, but enough to think about it.

I found mine 1st by just having a couple drinks. Because she drove home that night and it was apparent when I rode in the passenger frt seat - could never feel it via the wheel or driver's seat. But even failing that, lift the front end and spin each wheel in Neutral. Place one hand on a spring coil and feel for vibration. This is usually the best test if you can't detect noise, etc. A failed bearing often rumbles, but it can be entirely silent and unnoticeable from the driver's position.

There are other causes but this would be at the top of my ddx.

Another possibility if you are in the rust belt is a seized caliper bolt. Usually you can find this easily by going around and feeling the hubs after some city driving. The dragging caliper will transmit a lot of heat to the hub and wheel. it will be distinctly hotter than the others (and perhaps burn you, be careful). Given year/mileage, I put bearing higher on the suspect list.
Next time I'm out for a drive I'll definitely check the heat on the hubs and think about that. Unfortunately I don't have access to a lift or garage personally so I'm going to have to delay looking into the wheel bearing. Not noticing any handling changes, or odd noises for now though.
True, but it seems he's indicating that he's driving a common route in Phoenix currently and getting dissimilar results to previous expectations.

Other mechanical concerns could be valid.
Bearing? Most wheel bearing failures are very noticeable. I mean really noticeable, with either noise or with clicking/wobbling during driving. No indication from OP he has these issues.
Caliper? Maybe... but you would also hear scraping typically with a stuck caliper causing the pad to scrape against the rotor. But your idea of checking the temperature of the caliper is a sound one just to be safe.

I would buy an OBDLink (or any cheap ELM clone) and use Dashcommand/Torque/etc. to monitor engine parameters (fuel trims, AFR, MAP, mass flow rate, etc) to see if they are in line with expectations. Like Almaz indicated, there could be a vacuum leak or something else that can easily be diagnosed with the OBD tool.

Winter gas blend and cold start/driving conditions can easily cause a large MPG drop. Cold starts take much longer, the transmission is more viscous until it gets up to temperature. All these things are additive and can cause large drops. Like I indicated, I regularly see 22-23 MPG on 80% highway driving (100 mile/day commute) in the winter and 25-26 MPG on the same exact conditions in the summer. It was concerning enough for me during my first year of S60 ownership that I started tracking the MPG closely; I realized this cycle repeated for me each winter and has been consistent for the past three years.
It is a common route (my apt to my GF's apt), and my mileage comparisons from the past vs. present are referencing said drive. I swapped over to UHP All Season's (Goodyear Eagle Exhilarate) from Summer tires (Continental ExtremeContact Sport) on the last change, so while I didn't expect a mileage decrease, it could just be that combined with winter temps and fuel.
I'd definitely go the route of getting an OBDLink just to put any concerns to rest, but I'd need help in understanding what I'm looking for in terms of what parameters should be normally.

@Ultrarunner511
My car is outside the known range for the piston ring issue, however I'm still going to check oil level and go from there.

@MyVolvoS60
Thanks for the tips on checking oil level, didn't even think of the piston rings or related items.

@p.rico
As of now, I think it is just the tires and mileage, especially after reading the article you sent. Also, I definitely notice the same rain mpg drop you note. Rolling resistance makes a world of difference.

Side notes:
If you're considering the Goodyear Eagle Exhilarates, don't get them. I've been disappointed in almost every manner by them, except for sheer grip. They're not engaging, slow to react, loud, uncomfortable, and overall just a downgrade from my past Conti's.
Also, thoughts on doing oil changes every 5,000 miles?
 

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Also, thoughts on doing oil changes every 5,000 miles?
I do them myself every 5,000 miles. And since I got a new engine not that long ago, and I've only used the VCC RBS0-2AE oil, I believe that I probably have the healthiest 2015 V60 on the road right now. lol
I use FCPEuro's lifetime return policy so after the first change, it only costs me shipping and my time. Considering what the dealer charges, it's a huge savings.
 

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Next time I'm out for a drive I'll definitely check the heat on the hubs and think about that. Unfortunately I don't have access to a lift or garage personally so I'm going to have to delay looking into the wheel bearing. Not noticing any handling changes, or odd noises for now though.

It is a common route (my apt to my GF's apt), and my mileage comparisons from the past vs. present are referencing said drive. I swapped over to UHP All Season's (Goodyear Eagle Exhilarate) from Summer tires (Continental ExtremeContact Sport) on the last change, so while I didn't expect a mileage decrease, it could just be that combined with winter temps and fuel.
I'd definitely go the route of getting an OBDLink just to put any concerns to rest, but I'd need help in understanding what I'm looking for in terms of what parameters should be normally.

@Ultrarunner511
My car is outside the known range for the piston ring issue, however I'm still going to check oil level and go from there.

@MyVolvoS60
Thanks for the tips on checking oil level, didn't even think of the piston rings or related items.

@p.rico
As of now, I think it is just the tires and mileage, especially after reading the article you sent. Also, I definitely notice the same rain mpg drop you note. Rolling resistance makes a world of difference.

Side notes:
If you're considering the Goodyear Eagle Exhilarates, don't get them. I've been disappointed in almost every manner by them, except for sheer grip. They're not engaging, slow to react, loud, uncomfortable, and overall just a downgrade from my past Conti's.
Also, thoughts on doing oil changes every 5,000 miles?
Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ Are good tires for spring, summer, fall. Absolute crap in winter. I run Nokian Hakkas R3s for winter. Even more imperative so since I have FWD.
 

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Bearing? Most wheel bearing failures are very noticeable. I mean really noticeable, with either noise or with clicking/wobbling during driving.
Some are in fact really noticeably, and that's a majority but not all by any stretch. A reasonable percentage are silent though as I described; I have seen it more than once.

For the OP, you don't need a "lift" to check, just jack it an inch off the ground and spin the wheel. No big process.

One thing you can do is use the website "realgas" and find a place near you selling non-ethanol. Gas it up with the appropriate grade and make a comparison.
 
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