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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Serpentine (drive) belt replacement on S40 - Now a DIY w/pics

Hello everyone.

I finally had a chance to change out the serpentine belts on my wife's 2006 S40 2.4i.

This was a fairly easy job, in-fact I did my grandfathers 96 blazer and had a tougher time than the Volvo.

Here is what you will need:
T20 (or T25)
T50
10 mm socket
Socket wrench
An extension (4 inch+)
Replacement belts. I got mine from IPD (pictured)

Before I got started, I removed the engine guard, as well as the wheel.



Pictured below you will see 5 screws (T20, 25) and 1 nut (10 mm). Her car needed T20/25 likely because when the shop replaced her bumper a few years ago, they mixed things around. I would assume it would be uniform otherwise. (Note, I had already removed mine at this point.)



After the screws and nut are removed, start peeling the fender back and toward you. Notice the nub below. This nub can be disengaged by pushing the fender up and back. This will release the liner further, allowing you to peel it past the brake disc and out.



Here is what you should see.



Take your T50 and remove the tension off the a/c belt. Once the tension is off, start peeling the belt from the bottom.



Now that is out of the way, you will have better access to the 2nd tensioner. Again, take the load off and peel the belt off from the bottom (use the extension to get to it easy). I ended up opening the hood at this point and feeding the belt off the alternator toward the ground.



Here is what one of the old belts looked like, in-case you were curious.



Now it is time to reverse the entire thing, start with the alternator then the a/c. Looking down from the hood, feed the alternator belt down. Loop it around the alternator and onto the tensioner. Go back to the tensioner, pull on the belt and again take the tension off just like you previously did. Feed the belt to the crank. The a/c belt is easier, again feed it through the a/c first, then the tensioner. Take the tension off and feed the belt to the crank.

All set, check everything is seated properly. Fire up the car and watch it run before putting everything back.

This took me about an hour, taking my sweet time and the pictures.
 

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No real special tool, you just need a larger torx bit. Yes, the access is in the fender well. Look at the alternator replacement sticky & the timing belt sticky & you should be covered.
 

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Be sure to post pics and a writeup, if you can. :)
 

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Awesome write-up. Makes me feel more confident in doing this myself. Big THANKS.

Btw, those rotors look like mine. :)
 

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I went ahead and did this procedure as I took the advice in another thread about these belts contributing to the Timing Belt failure. I have 106K miles on my car, so I want to avoid any potential issues before I get the Timing Belt done in a month or so.

I wanted to update this procedure a little. On my '05 S40 2.4i, there's a screw underneath the front bumper, which needs to be taken out via a regular philips screwdriver. It holds the skidpad in place as well, I think.

Didn't take too long uninstalling or installing the belts, but having a good positioning of your wrench and torx bit will help, because you're going to be using your forearm muscles a lot.

I used:

- Philips Screwdriver (for one screw underneath the front bumper--apparently part of the skidpad).
- 1/2" drive ratchet with a 6" extension
- T50 bit
- T25 bit for the fender liner screws
- Pliers for unscrewing two "nut-screws" directly behind the wheel. You could use a wrench but it doesn't take much pressure to unscrew these--and should not take much pressure to put them back on--they are plastic.

Be mindful of the fender liner position. Took me 3x as long as the belt installation to get it right. I'll be replacing the liners on both left and right fronts soon anyway, so at least I know how to do it now.

Be sure to get the right belt where it's supposed to go. These belts look a lot like each other (I bought Volvo OE parts, so the A/C Belt had blue lettering [part # 30777530] and the Alternator Belt / Auxiliary Belt had white lettering [part # 30777531]), so take care to memorize which belt goes where. This will save you time in case you're wondering why a belt doesn't fit. I put my belts on correctly, but I thought for a moment how easily I could have put the wrong belt in the wrong place.

And of course, double-check your belt seating. Make sure the belts are in all the grooves and everything is in-line with the pulleys and crank. Once that is confirmed, turn the car on to make sure the belts are moving correctly.
 

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Thanks, this is next on my bucket list. I should have done it today when I changed my lower control arms.
Stan
 

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Thanks again. Your photos and instructions made it a piece of cake.
Stan
 

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How many miles do you have to replace the serpentine belt on? Oh do t5s have that?
 

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I believe the recommended interval is 105K miles. I have read bad stories of serp belts breaking and getting jammed in the timing belt area and causing much grief. They are simple enough to do.
Dtan
 

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I believe the recommended interval is 105K miles. I have read bad stories of serp belts breaking and getting jammed in the timing belt area and causing much grief. They are simple enough to do.
Dan
I'm only at ~72k and I will be changing mine anyways. Because preventative maintenance.
 

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So basically the serpentine and timing belts change at 105k?
 

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Seems like 105k will be replacing both.
 

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Looking at those pictures make me a bit queasy, as i drove round for months without ac working. When I took it to the dealer they checked everything regarding ac, no conclusion. I went in the shop and had a look for myself. Immediately saw that the center bolt holding the clutch assembly was missing. The compressor axle was out a full inch if not more. they told me i needed a new compressor and did not offer to bang the thing back in and install a bolt. I drove home and did it myselv. AC working again..
Think i might need to check the state of my belts..
Odd thing, there was no sound... misaligning the belt by that much can not have been good..

Excellent pics, thx

BTW, is that the powersteering assembly in the far right corner of the pictures, metal bottom, light green top?
 

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Looking at those pictures make me a bit queasy, as i drove round for months without ac working. When I took it to the dealer they checked everything regarding ac, no conclusion. I went in the shop and had a look for myself. Immediately saw that the center bolt holding the clutch assembly was missing. The compressor axle was out a full inch if not more. they told me i needed a new compressor and did not offer to bang the thing back in and install a bolt. I drove home and did it myselv. AC working again..
Think i might need to check the state of my belts..
Odd thing, there was no sound... misaligning the belt by that much can not have been good..

Excellent pics, thx

BTW, is that the powersteering assembly in the far right corner of the pictures, metal bottom, light green top?
Scary!! Absolutely change that belt.

Also, Fu(k dealerships. New compressor ..... Seriously.
 

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These belts look a lot like each other (I bought Volvo OE parts, so the A/C Belt had blue lettering [part # 30777530] and the Alternator Belt / Auxiliary Belt had white lettering [part # 30777531]).
Are the alternator belts and auxiliary belts the same thing?

Any specific torque for the tensioners? I'd like to do these myself before I pay someone to do the timing belt.
 

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Are the alternator belts and auxiliary belts the same thing?

Any specific torque for the tensioners? I'd like to do these myself before I pay someone to do the timing belt.
Yes, Volvo calls them all kinds of things. Accessory belts or Auxiliary belts. There are only two belts A/C & Alternator.
42nm (31ftlbs) on the tensioner center bolt (M10x90).
 
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