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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I removed my ABS unit, and th enew one arrived today (yay!)

the old screws looked like someone had taken them out with vicegrips or a similar tool at one point. They were VERY rounded. (Since I had invested in the right socket, I'm pretty sure it wasn't me, but whatever...)

I need 4 new screws. Anyone got a source other than the local pick-n-pull?

Are they just a metric threaded screw that could be replaced at the local hardware store? I can get metric screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: Screws for ABS Unit (Prospector)

I took one of the screws with me to Canadian Tire last night after work...

Without trying it on the car, it looks like they are 4mm X 0.70 pitch X 50 mm screws. Sadly Cdn Tire only stocks 4mm screws up to 45mm long.

NAPA has ordered in a handy pack of the screws for me. I'll pick them up tomorrow morning. If these work, it will mean no more fussing with the inverse torx head bolts that the PO stripped out.

While this isn't exactly a mod worth noting, I post it here in case other folks have trouble with the stock screws.
 

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Re: Screws for ABS Unit (Prospector)

I need to pull my ABS module out, but from first glance it looks like a rather daunting task. Where are the screws exactly and how do you get to them? Is there anything you have to remove in order to gain access?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Screws for ABS Unit (C70drvr)

Its actually quite easy. Give yourself 1/2 hour tops.

First undo the battery cable so you don't fry anything.

For mine, I pulled the air filter box, and removed the air tube (I think it goes to the turbo) which is all snap-together plastic. There is one hose clamp.

2 electrical conectors attach to the module. The bigger one comes off by rotating the cover on it. The small one is a normal clip-together fitting.

The ABS unit is held in by 4 screws on its underside.

Use your finger to get an impression of the screwhead. You will see that it is a reverse torx head. The star shape sticks out of the screw, so it is the reverse of what most torx drivers will work with. You can buy the right socket from IPD or Vic Rocca. I think it runs under $5 to get the right tool.

If you don't wnat to buy the right tool, you can use a small socket and force it onto the stud, but you will be making trouble for yourself for the next time you have to do the job. If you strip it out altogether you will be really unhappy. I would send away for the tool.

Use a 1/4 drive socket and the rest is simple. On some websites it says you will have a hard time reaching the last 2 screws. That was not my experience. I had more trouble with the stripped-out heads from the PO than I did with reaching any of the screws.

There are a handful of sources for the rebuilt modules. Ipd http://www.ipdusa.com/product.asp?P_ID=2216 and Vic Rocha http://home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/ both are highly recommended online. I got mine from BBA Reman http://tinyurl.com/BBAreman and had it in hand in 2 days - with a customs inspection. The BBA part comes with a lifetime (as long as you own the car) guarantee. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

I have not yet installed the new (rebuilt) part.

I have everything in hand now to complete the job for $105 plus $25 in shipping, plus $55 in cross-border duties ($185 total). http://********************/smile/emthup.gif I still need to ship the core back to BBA. The dealer wanted $1500 for the parts alone. http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif

BBA says they are opening a Canadian distribution soon. No more duties. They only ship UPS. IPD will ship via USPS, saving you the duties. Decide whether the duties or the guarantee is worth more to you and act accordingly.

Hope this helps you. I'd be glad to supply any more info you need.


More instruction on Vic Rocha's site if you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Screws for ABS Unit (Prospector)

Woe is me.

I went into NAPA this morning and the girl at th ecounter had ordered the wrong bolts. Turns out they can't get our size at all.

Drove down to Brafasco (industrial fasteners) and they had 3 options...

hex headed bolts
cap screws
threaded rod

Take your pick, but only the threaded rod in stock. I pick up the hex headed bolts on Monday. They had 2 cap screws on the shelf and the girl gave them to me free 'cause I'm a nice guy (her words, not mine).

Tonight I will see if I can get an allen key in there to put them on. They may be a reasonable alternative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Screws for ABS Unit (Prospector)

The Cap Screws went in WAY better than the stock screws. If you do this job I really recommend buying four of them.

Screws were $1.50 each (+/-) at Brafasco, and took 3 days to come in.

The (3 mm) allen key was much easier to work with than a ratchet in the limited space, and the heads on the screws made it easier to get them finger tight.
 

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Re: Screws for ABS Unit (Prospector)

My TRACS and ABS lights come on every once in a while. My mechanic said there were no codes stored, though. Any idea if this sounds more like a loose connector than a malfunctioning controller?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Screws for ABS Unit (BostonC70)

The ABS unit made me lose TRACS & ABS initially. Then I started losing the cruise control as well.

After the dealership "fixed" it, I lost TRACS, ABS, Speedo, Transmission light came up, speedo never worked, and just about light on the dash was lit. I went to a client meeting with my boss, and when the speedo failed he told me I was no longer to drive the car on company business. This caused me great chagrin, but I can't really blame him because of the nature of my work.

If you run the car with it as-is, nothing wil lbe further damaged, but you are not getting the benefit of the TRACS and ABS.

I would continue to drive the car with the faults until they are very consistent. Do some research online and see if the symptoms match the ABS controller failure (it sounds like they do). Then pony up the cash and buy a rebuilt unit. I would also replace the reverse hex screws with the cap screws, just because the OEM ones are a poor design, but thats just me.

Total time to do the repair as a DIY - 1 hour. 1-1/2 if you are clumsy. Total cost including shipping parts and buying new screws - $200.
 
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