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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just finished a rebuild yesterday and started my volvo up after getting a new turbo and it started and ran rough plus it had an oil leak on a bad gasket. I shut it down, got the gasket today and installed it and then went to start it again and it wont start... Just cranks. I checked the plugs and they seemed moist (smell of gas). Cleaned them and put them back in. Tried again, nothing. Not even a chug and now there is gas leaking out the rear of the exhaust (front is jacked up).

So I hook up VIDA and I get a few codes, but the only one that seems to effect starting is the throttle valve code (ECM-91B7 - Throttle Valve Faulty Signal). So I just the activation test on VIDA and set it to 50%, 75% and 100% and it comes to within .01% of each... so seems fine.

Voltage on car was corrected (was low) and codes cleared. Nothing... What do I do?

Here is a screenshot of the codes:

 

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Are you certain that you have the electrical connector at the throttle body fully seated?

Check fuses to see if any are blown.

Check for spark by pulling a coil, sticking a plug in it, ground it to the engine and watch for spark while a helper cranks the engine over. Make sure you don't keep cranking forever or you will foul the plugs with fuel and then have a heck of a time starting it again even if you fix the real problem. If concerned, pull the fuel pump fuse before you crank it. It shouldn't take much cranking to see spark if it's there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Fuses are all fine, checked everyone.

Tested with VIDA and throttle body moved to correct settings so I'm assuming the connection is fine. Also this vehicle has driven over 5 hours since the rebuild that effected the TB.

I'll check spark, but pretty sure it is flooded. It's it two stroke style to clean it out? pull plugs and crack engine over?
 

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If it's flooded, pull all plugs and let them air dry for several hours. Make sure they are not fouled (as in covered in black soot) ... would take a lot of cranking to foul them, but the point is that they won't work well once fouled. Crank the engine over a few times with the fuel pump fuse pulled just to clean out raw fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There is still spark, got it running (pulled plugs cleaned and cleaned cylinders) I got it started with the fuel pump fuse out then put it in once it caught... clearly getting too much fuel.

It ran, with white smoke coming out the exhaust and fuel dripping down the back of the engine as well as on top of the valve cover... my guess is one/two cylinders are not firing and are getting flooded. Thoughts?

(I know this is posted in two spots, I thought the other one was dead so I started this one, but Ill post to both now)
 

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On a drive by wire system does it do any good to hold the pedel down to allow more air in? or does that car do what it wants with the butterfly plate on startup?
Car does it. No pont in doing it. What does VIDA say?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nothing conclusive in VIDA about it. Driver side cylinder had a wet plug (only one) after running for 5-6 mins. Also had fuel in the spark plug well as well as on top of the valve cover, which blows my mind since the spark plug was in there tight...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ah man... Stuck injector on cylinder one... Just pulled them and tested it.

For the record a stuck injector would give the same symptoms of a blown turbo... $1200 later...
 

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Good deal - glad you figured it out. Stuck injector makes sense.
 

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sucks that you bought a new turbo only to find out it was an injector. atleast you don't have to worry about the turbo now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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From the fuel going down the back of the engine like you said, pretty big sign that your exhaust gaskets are blowing out. When I tore down my motor I had a couple that were pretty shot, though not completely blown out yet.
 

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Oval. If that stud fell out, which is a possibility since when I tore down my motor some were finger loose, then you could be in for an easy job pulling the manifold and replacing the gaskets, or it could be a nightmare if you have some ****ed up studs and nuts. If the leak is not too audible once the engine is running right you might just want to drive it till the port leak becomes a real issue, especially if that stud fell out since all you have to do for a temp fix is reinstall and retorque and hope that gives you a new lease on your R's life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah. I am sure with everything that's been done to it in the past month it will be a whole new car now.

Any idea what the torque value for the exhaust studs would be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So checked the tightness of the exhaust bolts since I was back there, pretty much all but 2 were finger tight... real loose. Crazy they were that loose.

Also that stud wasnt broken... just fell out so I was able to replace it will a small bolt I had lying around. Should make a world of difference.

Again cant even believe this car was running.

 
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