Hey, everyone. I was wondering if you all had any advice on a new air filter for an S60R . I'm deciding between the K&N air filter or the eurosport airfilter from eurosporttuning.ca. Any clue which one has better performance? The Eurosport one is more expensive but everyone says that K&N is the way too go. Thanks
S60R-Air Filters
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Re: (s140s)
Just for a counter-opinion, many on this board have either stuck with the stock filter, or went the circle of stock-to-oiled type filter...and then back to stock.
The "problem" is that you have to be EXTREMELY diligent in ensuring that your oiled filter is not over-oiled. Do a search. All kinds of ways to make sure you don't overload the filter and ways to remove remaining oil. If you have too much, it messes with the MAF, and then you're into big problems and bucks trying to diagnose.
Solution: Stay with stock filter, BUT remove the "sock" which covers 1/3 of the surface area.
Just for a counter-opinion, many on this board have either stuck with the stock filter, or went the circle of stock-to-oiled type filter...and then back to stock.
The "problem" is that you have to be EXTREMELY diligent in ensuring that your oiled filter is not over-oiled. Do a search. All kinds of ways to make sure you don't overload the filter and ways to remove remaining oil. If you have too much, it messes with the MAF, and then you're into big problems and bucks trying to diagnose.
Solution: Stay with stock filter, BUT remove the "sock" which covers 1/3 of the surface area.
Re: (Short Circuit)
I've used one of the oiled filters and am back to stock with the sock....Does removing the sock really make a difference????
| Quote, originally posted by Short Circuit » |
| Solution: Stay with stock filter, BUT remove the "sock" which covers 1/3 of the surface area. |
I've used one of the oiled filters and am back to stock with the sock....Does removing the sock really make a difference????
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Re: (Blurry)
As JRL said, it will sound just a little bit louder - nothing to be concerned about and a positive if you're seeking that little more grunt sound from the engine. Removing the sock, IMO, does not add to the filtration capabilities of the filter. Why? The sock itself has pretty wide mesh-like openings, so its use to filter is dubious at best - I think it is for sound deadening only. Air passes thru the sock easily, and meets filtering resistance only when it hits the filter itself - not the mesh.
So I say remove the mesh and enjoy the car!
| Quote, originally posted by Blurry » |
I've used one of the oiled filters and am back to stock with the sock....Does removing the sock really make a difference???? |
As JRL said, it will sound just a little bit louder - nothing to be concerned about and a positive if you're seeking that little more grunt sound from the engine. Removing the sock, IMO, does not add to the filtration capabilities of the filter. Why? The sock itself has pretty wide mesh-like openings, so its use to filter is dubious at best - I think it is for sound deadening only. Air passes thru the sock easily, and meets filtering resistance only when it hits the filter itself - not the mesh.
So I say remove the mesh and enjoy the car!
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1,844 Posts
I am happy with my K&N.
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Re: (lan)
Get the Ipd R Kelly CAI.
Get the Ipd R Kelly CAI.
Re: (Husker Z)
Let's see: one K&N filter, about $50 - lasts the lifetime of the vehicle (I've used them for 20+ years on several vehicles with ZERO problems). Or...buy the crappy paper filters every year or so - what are they, about $40 each?? If you gunk up your MAF with a K&N, you are over-oiling it. Seems pretty simple...
Let's see: one K&N filter, about $50 - lasts the lifetime of the vehicle (I've used them for 20+ years on several vehicles with ZERO problems). Or...buy the crappy paper filters every year or so - what are they, about $40 each?? If you gunk up your MAF with a K&N, you are over-oiling it. Seems pretty simple...
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37 Posts
again bumping an old topic
regarding oiled vs dry filters
as far as I know: only dry filters are
1) OEM-style paper filters,
2) AFE has 3 types of universal cone filters of which only 1 is non-oiled: the WHITE/GREY PROdryS (instead of the blue or yellow colored ones),
3) AEM dry flow,
4) Apexi powerflow (which are really great and not that expensive on nengun)
5) Amsoil http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ersal-air-induction-filters/?code=EAAU3050-EA,
6) Pipercross has NON oiled PANEL filters for the normal s60 and V70
7) HKS super filter Elements are available in a dry 3-layer, triple density or wet 2-layer, dual density construction.
The dry 3-layer type is standard in SMF Reloaded Intake kits, and is designed for superior filtration while still providing excellent airflow.
The wet 2-layer type is included in Racing Suction kits and is focused on maximizing airflow for performance, yet still keeping harmful particles from the engine.
If your vehicle is in a high dust area, HKS recommends using dry 3-layer elements.
The pipercross px1659 for the R's is an oiled one (I believe all black foam filters are to be oiled)
Simota promotes itself as dry filter, but there website says (when you search for maintenance) you should clean then every 5000mile and oil them.
A belgian shop that sold simota said they had problems with them and had bad filtering.
When a customer told them about the oiling part and they contacted simota, only at that time simota told them their filters aren't that great at filtering when not oiled)
Now, everytime when the discussion about oiled vs non oiled starts, people start saying that you only get problems when you OVER-OIL you filter or put it back when not dry.
Sure, you have to do it right, not use too much oil and surely wait till its dry before using.
BUT!!!!!!!!!
I've to look where I read it, but it was an official K&N statement: Very small dust particles can pull the oil out of the filter element.
So even when you buy a new filter or have it oiled correctly, you still risk "oiling" your MAF.
Again: eventhough on their site they keep claiming it is IMPOSSIBLE to get oil sucked out of the filter, even when over-oiled, I read this statement somewhere on a official kn website or public "press" release
I aint claiming this is what causes maf to fail, and using a maf cleaner now and then never hurts, but still.... I prefer dry filters
cheers
regarding oiled vs dry filters
as far as I know: only dry filters are
1) OEM-style paper filters,
2) AFE has 3 types of universal cone filters of which only 1 is non-oiled: the WHITE/GREY PROdryS (instead of the blue or yellow colored ones),
3) AEM dry flow,
4) Apexi powerflow (which are really great and not that expensive on nengun)
5) Amsoil http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ersal-air-induction-filters/?code=EAAU3050-EA,
6) Pipercross has NON oiled PANEL filters for the normal s60 and V70
7) HKS super filter Elements are available in a dry 3-layer, triple density or wet 2-layer, dual density construction.
The dry 3-layer type is standard in SMF Reloaded Intake kits, and is designed for superior filtration while still providing excellent airflow.
The wet 2-layer type is included in Racing Suction kits and is focused on maximizing airflow for performance, yet still keeping harmful particles from the engine.
If your vehicle is in a high dust area, HKS recommends using dry 3-layer elements.
The pipercross px1659 for the R's is an oiled one (I believe all black foam filters are to be oiled)
Simota promotes itself as dry filter, but there website says (when you search for maintenance) you should clean then every 5000mile and oil them.
A belgian shop that sold simota said they had problems with them and had bad filtering.
When a customer told them about the oiling part and they contacted simota, only at that time simota told them their filters aren't that great at filtering when not oiled)
Now, everytime when the discussion about oiled vs non oiled starts, people start saying that you only get problems when you OVER-OIL you filter or put it back when not dry.
Sure, you have to do it right, not use too much oil and surely wait till its dry before using.
BUT!!!!!!!!!
I've to look where I read it, but it was an official K&N statement: Very small dust particles can pull the oil out of the filter element.
So even when you buy a new filter or have it oiled correctly, you still risk "oiling" your MAF.
Again: eventhough on their site they keep claiming it is IMPOSSIBLE to get oil sucked out of the filter, even when over-oiled, I read this statement somewhere on a official kn website or public "press" release
I aint claiming this is what causes maf to fail, and using a maf cleaner now and then never hurts, but still.... I prefer dry filters
cheers
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37 Posts
comparison of k&n, blitz, hks and apexi filter
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/index.html
filtration:
apexi best: very very good filtration
k&n second: jet still quite some dust gone through
blitz: quite bad
hks: horrible filtration
performance gain is almost the same, but in exact numbers apexi also best one
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/index.html
filtration:
apexi best: very very good filtration
k&n second: jet still quite some dust gone through
blitz: quite bad
hks: horrible filtration
performance gain is almost the same, but in exact numbers apexi also best one
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I went Stock, K&N, AEM dryflow, Stock. I'm convinced stock is best.
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