Thank you Krn.
Admin: could this be made sticky?
Admin: could this be made sticky?
S60 T6 Oil Change Write Up
Received a request to move this to it's own thread. So here it is:
2011+ S60 T6 Oil Change:
Tools:
36 mm socket and extensions (for top of oil filter housing)
17 mm wrench (oil drain plug)
Torx T27 driver
Ramps
Parts:
Filter: 30750013 (filter and new filter housing gasket)
Drain plug crush washer, aluminum: 977751
Oil: 7 quarts
The car has to be placed up on ramps. Clearance between the ramp and the car's
lower trim pieces was tight (those two pieces that face forward in front of each
tire). They did rub a bit coming off the ramps as the car bounces on the
suspension a bit right as it comes off. (These seem to be air guides and are
basically plastic L brackets riveted onto the lower plastic in the front air guide).
![]()
A larger air guide under the engine must be removed. Eight T27 Torx screws had
to be removed. This is a very light felt/cardboard type of material (it is not
plastic). Removal and re-install was simple but you definitely need ramps or a
raised car to get to the fasteners in the rear. In addition to the eight screws
there are two plastic clips that help hold it in place (they are not very strong
and are easily reused).
![]()
The drain plug is 17mm. The crush washer is the same crush washer that has been
used on Volvo white engines for years. A wrench had to be used to remove the
drain bolt since a socket wrench would not fit (the turbo cold side ducting
is right in front of the drain plug).
![]()
Once the drain plug was opened, oil drained slowly until the top oil fill cap was
opened (breaking the engine vacuum -- engine seems to be well sealed). If you
don't open the oil fill cap, it drains/glugs out like a bottle held upside down.
This was actually convenient since the draining started slowly but be aware the
oil spurted out very fast (and far) once the fill cap was opened. The oil
did splash on the turbo ducting behind it when it was drained. I used a new
crush washer and tightened the bolt by hand (by that, I mean I did not torque it
to any specific value -- don't over tighten). Make sure you find the old crush
washer; if you stack a new one over the old one you can get a leak.
You can see how close the turbo plumbing is to the drain here:
![]()
To change the filter, unscrew the cover over the oil filter with a 36mm socket.
My socket was 12 point and worked fine using a couple of extensions. I had to use
the wrench for about the first 6 turns. After that, it spun off easily by hand.
Note the engine cover must be pulled off for the extensions and socket to have
access to the filter.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5585/...ter-cap-wrench
![]()
The cover and the filter came out together. It was a bit tight pulling the cover
and attached filter out from under the intake manifold but not too difficult
or messy. Do not try to separate the filter from the cover while it is under the
manifold (at least the first time you do it). The cover has a plastic meshed pipe
about 4 inches long running into the filter and you can't easily pull the filter
off the cover unless you have abut four inches of clearance under it (which you
won't until you get it everything out from under the intake manifold). You can see the
mesh in these threads (the mesh is not visible in my photos):
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...cs-Included)
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...e-With-A-Twist
![]()
I tried placing the new filter into the cover and screwing them back on as one
piece but that did not work (the threads on the cover would not "catch"). I placed
the filter into the engine housing side and pushed down until seated. The cover's
threads then caught easily. Hand tighten except for last few turns which require
a wrench as it starts to get tight (the filter is seated against a spring at
the bottom of the housing). This seems to indicate 18 pounds to torque for the cover:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6306/...ter-cartridges
![]()
I drained what appeared to be a bit over 6 quarts. I replaced that amount, started the engine while
on ramps to check for leaks. Be careful no to initially over fill. I put the lower air guide back on
after confirming no leaks at the drain bolt. Once off ramps, top up oil as needed.
2011+ S60 T6 Oil Change:
Tools:
36 mm socket and extensions (for top of oil filter housing)
17 mm wrench (oil drain plug)
Torx T27 driver
Ramps
Parts:
Filter: 30750013 (filter and new filter housing gasket)
Drain plug crush washer, aluminum: 977751
Oil: 7 quarts
The car has to be placed up on ramps. Clearance between the ramp and the car's
lower trim pieces was tight (those two pieces that face forward in front of each
tire). They did rub a bit coming off the ramps as the car bounces on the
suspension a bit right as it comes off. (These seem to be air guides and are
basically plastic L brackets riveted onto the lower plastic in the front air guide).
A larger air guide under the engine must be removed. Eight T27 Torx screws had
to be removed. This is a very light felt/cardboard type of material (it is not
plastic). Removal and re-install was simple but you definitely need ramps or a
raised car to get to the fasteners in the rear. In addition to the eight screws
there are two plastic clips that help hold it in place (they are not very strong
and are easily reused).
The drain plug is 17mm. The crush washer is the same crush washer that has been
used on Volvo white engines for years. A wrench had to be used to remove the
drain bolt since a socket wrench would not fit (the turbo cold side ducting
is right in front of the drain plug).
Once the drain plug was opened, oil drained slowly until the top oil fill cap was
opened (breaking the engine vacuum -- engine seems to be well sealed). If you
don't open the oil fill cap, it drains/glugs out like a bottle held upside down.
This was actually convenient since the draining started slowly but be aware the
oil spurted out very fast (and far) once the fill cap was opened. The oil
did splash on the turbo ducting behind it when it was drained. I used a new
crush washer and tightened the bolt by hand (by that, I mean I did not torque it
to any specific value -- don't over tighten). Make sure you find the old crush
washer; if you stack a new one over the old one you can get a leak.
You can see how close the turbo plumbing is to the drain here:
To change the filter, unscrew the cover over the oil filter with a 36mm socket.
My socket was 12 point and worked fine using a couple of extensions. I had to use
the wrench for about the first 6 turns. After that, it spun off easily by hand.
Note the engine cover must be pulled off for the extensions and socket to have
access to the filter.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5585/...ter-cap-wrench
The cover and the filter came out together. It was a bit tight pulling the cover
and attached filter out from under the intake manifold but not too difficult
or messy. Do not try to separate the filter from the cover while it is under the
manifold (at least the first time you do it). The cover has a plastic meshed pipe
about 4 inches long running into the filter and you can't easily pull the filter
off the cover unless you have abut four inches of clearance under it (which you
won't until you get it everything out from under the intake manifold). You can see the
mesh in these threads (the mesh is not visible in my photos):
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...cs-Included)
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...e-With-A-Twist
I tried placing the new filter into the cover and screwing them back on as one
piece but that did not work (the threads on the cover would not "catch"). I placed
the filter into the engine housing side and pushed down until seated. The cover's
threads then caught easily. Hand tighten except for last few turns which require
a wrench as it starts to get tight (the filter is seated against a spring at
the bottom of the housing). This seems to indicate 18 pounds to torque for the cover:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6306/...ter-cartridges
I drained what appeared to be a bit over 6 quarts. I replaced that amount, started the engine while
on ramps to check for leaks. Be careful no to initially over fill. I put the lower air guide back on
after confirming no leaks at the drain bolt. Once off ramps, top up oil as needed.
7
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Nice writeup, here are just some alternate tips:
You can disconnect the power steering reservoir mounting to provide more room to get the filter in and out, and if you use a U-joint on the socket for the filter housing then you don't have to remove the engine cover.
The filter can be installed into the filter housing as a unit before lowering it into place with this extra room. Also, when doing this you have to put some slight downward pressure on the filter housing for the threads to catch.
You can disconnect the power steering reservoir mounting to provide more room to get the filter in and out, and if you use a U-joint on the socket for the filter housing then you don't have to remove the engine cover.
- use small flathead inserted into square hole to pry up slightly on the clip and slid away from railing
- the black mounting clip then slides down and off of the reservoir
- this allows the reservoir to swing out of the way a fair amount
- when reinstalling just make sure to route the small vacuum hose on the backside of the black clip correctly
The filter can be installed into the filter housing as a unit before lowering it into place with this extra room. Also, when doing this you have to put some slight downward pressure on the filter housing for the threads to catch.
3
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
