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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Received a request to move this to it's own thread. So here it is:

2011+ S60 T6 Oil Change:

Tools:

36 mm socket and extensions (for top of oil filter housing)
17 mm wrench (oil drain plug)
Torx T27 driver
Ramps

Parts:

Filter: 30750013 (filter and new filter housing gasket)
Drain plug crush washer, aluminum: 977751
Oil: 7 quarts

The car has to be placed up on ramps. Clearance between the ramp and the car's
lower trim pieces was tight (those two pieces that face forward in front of each
tire). They did rub a bit coming off the ramps as the car bounces on the
suspension a bit right as it comes off. (These seem to be air guides and are
basically plastic L brackets riveted onto the lower plastic in the front air guide).



A larger air guide under the engine must be removed. Eight T27 Torx screws had
to be removed. This is a very light felt/cardboard type of material (it is not
plastic). Removal and re-install was simple but you definitely need ramps or a
raised car to get to the fasteners in the rear. In addition to the eight screws
there are two plastic clips that help hold it in place (they are not very strong
and are easily reused).



The drain plug is 17mm. The crush washer is the same crush washer that has been
used on Volvo white engines for years. A wrench had to be used to remove the
drain bolt since a socket wrench would not fit (the turbo cold side ducting
is right in front of the drain plug).



Once the drain plug was opened, oil drained slowly until the top oil fill cap was
opened (breaking the engine vacuum -- engine seems to be well sealed). If you
don't open the oil fill cap, it drains/glugs out like a bottle held upside down.
This was actually convenient since the draining started slowly but be aware the
oil spurted out very fast (and far) once the fill cap was opened. The oil
did splash on the turbo ducting behind it when it was drained. I used a new
crush washer and tightened the bolt by hand (by that, I mean I did not torque it
to any specific value -- don't over tighten). Make sure you find the old crush
washer; if you stack a new one over the old one you can get a leak.

You can see how close the turbo plumbing is to the drain here:



To change the filter, unscrew the cover over the oil filter with a 36mm socket.
My socket was 12 point and worked fine using a couple of extensions. I had to use
the wrench for about the first 6 turns. After that, it spun off easily by hand.
Note the engine cover must be pulled off for the extensions and socket to have
access to the filter.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5585/...ter-cap-wrench



The cover and the filter came out together. It was a bit tight pulling the cover
and attached filter out from under the intake manifold but not too difficult
or messy. Do not try to separate the filter from the cover while it is under the
manifold (at least the first time you do it). The cover has a plastic meshed pipe
about 4 inches long running into the filter and you can't easily pull the filter
off the cover unless you have abut four inches of clearance under it (which you
won't until you get it everything out from under the intake manifold). You can see the
mesh in these threads (the mesh is not visible in my photos):

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...cs-Included)
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...e-With-A-Twist



I tried placing the new filter into the cover and screwing them back on as one
piece but that did not work (the threads on the cover would not "catch"). I placed
the filter into the engine housing side and pushed down until seated. The cover's
threads then caught easily. Hand tighten except for last few turns which require
a wrench as it starts to get tight (the filter is seated against a spring at
the bottom of the housing). This seems to indicate 18 pounds to torque for the cover:
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6306/...ter-cartridges




I drained what appeared to be a bit over 6 quarts. I replaced that amount, started the engine while
on ramps to check for leaks. Be careful no to initially over fill. I put the lower air guide back on
after confirming no leaks at the drain bolt. Once off ramps, top up oil as needed.
 

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Thank you Krn.

Admin: could this be made sticky?
 

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Keep It Clean !

I would Add - for those Not Experienced with the Internal Filter - to - Check Visually also , and make sure the : Filter Housing CAP is Completely Down .

I use the Finger Nail Test , to feel If there is any space between the Cap and Housing .

A few Inexperienced doing their own Oil , didn't Seat Cap all the way and ended up Pumping out slowly till they had - NO Oil .

Seating the Filter is Super Important , as the Extra Tq. required to push down a Filter - Only Partially Seated - Will Fake You Out . read ( causing Cap Not to be Seated all the Way )

As Mentioned - Checking for Leaks is also a way to check . ( I do both )
 

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I would add, not to be tedious, but some of you might want to know the oil filter housing has an anti-drainback valve in it. It's recomended to loosen the oil filter before putting the drain plug back in so as much used oil as possible drains out of the car.
 

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Thanks for this posting. We just got back from a vacation and had 3800 miles on the 2011 T6. I decided to go ahead and change out the oil and filter. Appreciate you taking time to detail the process.
 

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I'm not sure if this is a silly question, but can you replace the oil filter element without draining the engine oil?
With the filter on the top of the engine, I don't see what would stop you. Just let the engine sit a bit, remove the fill cap, remove the filter cover, replace, reverse.

But I do have to ask: Why would you want to replace the filter itself without replacing the oil?
 

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Well, I want to take a sample of the oil and have it analyzed to see if I can keep running it, or if I need to change it. And then I'll slap a new long-life filter in there.
 

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Ahh, now I understand. I just replace it -- cost isn't much.
 

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I know it's an old thread but you definitely CAN replace the filter w/o draining oil which is very convenient since the filter goes bad well before the oil does. With the top mount oil filter you can replace the filter INBETWEEN oil changes if need be, for instance when the car is driven hard or in extreme environment (dust).
 

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Great write up. I'm thinking about taking this task on in a few weeks now that Safe and Secure is over with for me.

My only question is on the engine cover - to remove it, do I just pull up? Or are there some hidden screws? I'm sure I can figure it out if I go and look at the cover, but I thought I would ask as other might have the same thoughts while reading the thread.

Nip
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For the T6: The cover just pulls off (no screws).
 

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Great write up. I'm thinking about taking this task on in a few weeks now that Safe and Secure is over with for me.

My only question is on the engine cover - to remove it, do I just pull up? Or are there some hidden screws? I'm sure I can figure it out if I go and look at the cover, but I thought I would ask as other might have the same thoughts while reading the thread.

Nip
Yeah there's 4 or 5 clips holding it in place. You want to lift from a corner (pick one) until the clip disengages, then keep lifting until the whole cover comes off. The first clip requires a bit of force but after that they all come off easy.
 

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A mechanic friend taught me something useful to prevent cross-threading: turn the opposite direction first as though you are loosening until you feel it "drop" into place at the end of the thread; you are then positioned to begin tightening.

I also love the way NACA style scoops are utilized in the cover. This kind of attention to detail in an unseen part is impressive.
 

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Don't have a garage but, very helpful. Thankfully my indy Volvo mechanic only charges me $10.
 

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Thanks for the cover removal tips. The new tools and parts I need to do the job properly arrive tomorrow!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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I would add, not to be tedious, but some of you might want to know the oil filter housing has an anti-drainback valve in it. It's recomended to loosen the oil filter before putting the drain plug back in so as much used oil as possible drains out of the car.
Good point! I usually close drain plug before moving on to filter. This time I left drain open the entire time and noticed a good amount of oil drain after I pulled the filter housing.
 

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Nice writeup, here are just some alternate tips:

You can disconnect the power steering reservoir mounting to provide more room to get the filter in and out, and if you use a U-joint on the socket for the filter housing then you don't have to remove the engine cover.

  1. use small flathead inserted into square hole to pry up slightly on the clip and slid away from railing
  2. the black mounting clip then slides down and off of the reservoir
  3. this allows the reservoir to swing out of the way a fair amount
  4. when reinstalling just make sure to route the small vacuum hose on the backside of the black clip correctly

The filter can be installed into the filter housing as a unit before lowering it into place with this extra room. Also, when doing this you have to put some slight downward pressure on the filter housing for the threads to catch.
 
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