SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone.
Im a German guy trying out a Volvo for the first time. I have a 2011 Audi A6 Avant 3.0T for the daily. I used to have a 04 BMW 325Xi and a 1993 BMW 740i that I converted to a 6 speed manual.

Anyways, I picked up a 2005 Volvo S60-R with 171K and the M66 manual yesterday for the sweet sweet price of $2K. Previous owner thought it had a cracked block because it failed a block test and consumes enough coolant to be filled once a month.

Car does not leave any drops on the ground, does not have a cold start miss, does not puff white smoke, and makes full power without a hickup.

Cracked liner, head gasket or any other thoughts? I have my buddies S60R I can buy for $2K without a title as well if I need a motor but it does have 10K more miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
if it consumes coolant to be filled up once a MONTH its subtle enough to not be seen. Head gaskets on these cars are not a failure point. Take the head off and you will probably find it has a cracked block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
if it consumes coolant to be filled up once a MONTH its subtle enough to not be seen. Head gaskets on these cars are not a failure point. Take the head off and you will probably find it has a cracked block.
That's my thought as well. I took the coolant cap off today and saw condensation around the cap, so my thought is potentially just a cap? Either way, if it is a cracked liner Ill probably just pull the motor and build it and run higher boost for the hell of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
515 Posts
my recommendation is to sell the S60R shell and grab a FWD S60 with no problematic AWD. If you wanna "boost the hell" out of an R the AWD system is going to be your limiting factor.
we are all dumber for having read your post and may God have mercy on your soul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,380 Posts
I would love to hear what I said that would warrant a response like that
Umm. You told him to sell the SR and buy something that doesn’t even compare in performance. Really? That’s like telling a 959 driver to drive a boxer instead.

Run a leak test on the coolant system. It could be the cap or anyone of the hoses. Check your external oil cooler hoses also on the bottom of the engine. They also run coolant.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Umm. You told him to sell the SR and buy something that doesn’t even compare in performance. Really? That’s like telling a 959 driver to drive a boxer instead.

Run a leak test on the coolant system. It could be the cap or anyone of the hoses. Check your external oil cooler hoses also on the bottom of the engine. They also run coolant.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,380 Posts
he also said he was gonna "pull the motor, build it, and boost the hell out of it". At that point it has nothing to do with R vs T5 or whatever, I said the AWD system of the R becomes an issue at higher power numbers, which to my knowledge is commonly understood
Really?? Where are you getting your info? He has a 05 with a M66. That will handle high Boost and create serious HP if built correctly. Shim the block or put in Dartons.

One person coming to mind is dougy. Read his posts and see how to build HP with little money. He built a real nice 2.3 06 SR but had the TF80. The AW55 will handle 400HP, if done right. The auto’s limit the HP that can be done but the M66 doesn’t.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Really?? Where are you getting your info? He has a 05 with a M66. That will handle high Boost and create serious HP if built correctly. Shim the block or put in Dartons.

One person coming to mind is dougy. Read his posts and see how to build HP with little money. He built a real nice 2.3 06 SR but had the TF80. The AW55 will handle 400HP, if done right. The auto’s limit the HP that can be done but the M66 doesn’t.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I thought we were talking about AWD not transmission, with this being a 05 it has reactive AWD which I thought was more problematic than 06+
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
My 2c ... keep the car and fix the motor IF it's indeed the motor.

At this age rubber is no longer what used to be and leaks are to be expected especially if the car lived in a hot climate. Do the tests and inspect those hard to reach connection between the radiator hose and hard coolant pipe in the driver side under the intake and all that jungle that is in there. Don't forget the lines on the back of the engine (oil cooler, turbo). Radiators do fail. Make sure you test that to. Heater core can leak although I didn't hear it so much on these cars.

Inspecting the cylinder liners is not hard. Just get yourself a boroscope (small, cheap phone attached ones work fine) and inspect the liners at the top of the bore. Good idea to get a boroscope that has a mirror. Make sure you tape the mirror to the camera so you don't drop it in! Start with the most likely spot between cyl 1 and 2. Take your time. It does not look like a crack even when you have a larger coolant leak. Look for discoloration. Post video or pictures here for the people that saw the crack before to advise you.

If indeed you do have a crack then rebuilt the engine. It looks like you very well have the skills, friends, and the budget. There are many threads about how to do it from cheap - just get a 2.3 block and move everything else over, to full on sleeves, piston, rods, coatings, porting, painting - the works for SEMA show.

Even if there is a crack, because the leak is so small, you can just drive it. I drove mine on a much larger crack for more than 20,000 miles. Yes, over time the crack will grow larger and you'll have to add more coolant but it buys you time to decide and to line up your project.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,380 Posts
I thought we were talking about AWD not transmission, with this being a 05 it has reactive AWD which I thought was more problematic than 06+
This is one of our members and should answer any question you have about the AWD. Tripled the HP in an 05 SR. Like I said, it can be done, if built right.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
My 2c regarding AWD ...

I would not like to have my R as FWD. I know how it drives FWD. So much power on a FWD sucks the joy of drive out of it. And remember that AWD in this cars is not only about tire traction. The R is using the Haldex for more than that.

So you have to make up your mind and accept that AWD in these cars is just a maintenance item NOT for the life of the car. That means that besides the fluid and filter replacements there are some extra items: the sleeve, the angle gear. Both of those have limited life. How long it depends on many things (too long of a discussion, just search for sleeve and angle gear treads with deep technological discussions). Every time you remove the angle gear no matter for what reason, you should replace and grease the sleeve. Fresh sleeves will delay the angle gear replacement. Eventually after many years/miles you'll also need to replace the angle gear. The good news is that they are available. Not cheap but available. I had mine replaced 2 times in 18 years and I have a 3rd one in storage for the upcoming replacement. BTW the failure on the angle gear is wear of the splines. I do not recommend using used angle gears mainly because I never found one that does not have worn splines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you all for the (mostly) beneficial help. I don't think I mentioned it but I was a mechanic for a couple years, got my aircraft airframe and powerplant certification and ended up landing a job as an electrical engineer in aerospace. So I have a very wide skill set and a tool box to fit with it.
I have been driving my R around and haven't had to add coolant yet so it's very small. I bought the car without working AWD and it's not very fun to drive with the ridiculous amount of torque steer. Took the haldex computer out cleaned it up and now it has working AWD. However I quickly disabled it after testing it because even a drop of the haldex fluid was pitch black so I'm going to rebuild the electric pump and already have the fluid, filter, and IPD cover for the computer.

Previous owner/s did try and take very good care of this car. It has poly engine mounts, poly sway bar bushings, IPD dash boost gauge and new 4C shocks. He did say the 4C didn't work but I believe it to be at least the shocks not being recalibrated in the computer. I'm trying to get the DICE unit but that takes time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
515 Posts
4c simple to diagnose. After you clear DTC's in vida see which one/s pop up after a few days of driving. Clockspring, abs, axle bolt/s, and a few other nits will disable 4c.

Haldex pump if/ when it fails are known to sometimes brick the DEM. I went with new last yr. Also for about 100 bucks you could r&r new DEM temp/ pressure sensor for preventative.

If propshaft and AG sleeve still in good shape and no carbon in coolant, compression ok - then recommend you drive the ever lovin piss out if it Enyoy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,380 Posts
My cousin has the A6 Avant Euro Delivery in the states here. What a great car that is. It must be a blast to drive. Well good luck with the build. You definitely know how to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top