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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my 07 S40 2.4i for 3 years now, bought it 2 years old in 09 with 23,000 miles and never had any issues with it until 3 weeks after the warranty expired in Jan. 2012. I went home for lunch one day and got in the car to go back to work and it did the start, shudder, stall thing and somehow made the timing belt skip....fine, i'll give it one F up. Re-timed motor, replaced timing belt, tensioner, and idler pulley myslef (thanks to this forum) and all was well. That was in January. 2 weeks ago, my oil trap PCV valve apparently got clogged, which caused the oil filter housing to start leaking oil, which leaked oil onto my accessory belts, which caused the A/C accessory belt going from the A/C compressor to the crank pulley to shred, sending pieces into the timing belt housing, wrapping itself around the crank pulley where the timing belt grabs, causing the belt to skip, AGAIN, but this time BENDING ALL OF MY VALVES. I found this out AFTER I got it home, re-timed the motor again, replaced timing belt and accessory belt, and tried to start it. Figured I had no compression but took it to the local Volvo dealer to comfirm and sure enough all the valves are bent. The motor only has 55,000 MILES!! which is about 7 months or 5,000 miles past factory warranty!

My question is:
The dealer has quoted me 6,000 plus dollars to put new valves in and a new head, which they recommend if valves are bent, which is craziness. I told them hell no. So now my options are either have them find a used head and replace the valves which would be over $3,000, which is still outrageous, find a used motor and have mine replaced for $7,000 dollars (parts and labor), or they will allow me to trade my S40 in for blue book value in running condition for a new volvo, which doesn't help at all because new ones run between 28 and 30+ thousand when I bought mine used, 2 years old, for 15. And frankly I dont think I would even want a new Volvo after all this BS right after the warranty ran out.

I have tried and been denied the "Volvo goodwill program" which the dealer told me about but later found out they will not cover the repairs, and my insurance company is coming out to the dealership tomorrow to look at the car and determine if they will possibly cover it, which is unlikely, so chances are I will be forced to repair this myself since I have no means of paying for the repair cost since I am military and get payed next to nothing..but I am more than mechanically enclined to replace the valves and possibly head. SO I am wondering if anyone has the VIDAS for replacing the valves and/or head on an '07 S40 2.4i motor?

Any help or advice would be appreciated. And thank you again, this forum has been an invaluable resource of information, even though I have not posted all that much.
 

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i have access to vida and alldata, once your ready let me know ill send you the info
 

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Rebuilt Exchange head from Tasca. Since you can do your own work you'll be back on the road for under 2K. Still sucks but all the alternatives suck even more.

New Part Number 36050503
Part Name CYLINDER HEAD, EXC
MSRP $1,785.55
Core $400.00
Online Price $1,416.83
 

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Sorry to hear about this. I am in the process of doing the same repair myself (I bought the car this way however). It's a BIG job but not a hard job. Clearwater Cylinder Heads will rebuild your cylinder head for about $400. Figure $200 for head gasket set. Wouldn't be bad to have a cam alignment tool (I'll be putting mine up for sale soon on the forums if interested). Figure another $400 for fluids, new PCV, belts, Tbelt kit etc. Around 1K to do it yourself. YOU CAN DO IT! Here's a pic where I am in the process at with mine.



Good Luck!
 

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Damn, lot of timing belt issues surfacing lately. Don't pay 6k for a valve job, valves can be replaced without replacing the head, that's retarded and the dealer just trying to cover their ass.

Would either have the head sent out for rebuild or just find a used head for cheap through an auto wrecker.

Checking and verifying a used head is easy. Oldschool trick is to pour denatured alcohol into the intake and exhaust ports, if none to very little leak from the valves then your good to go.
 

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this same thing happened to me...i fixed it all for under 300, (work done by myself mind you) i dont see the need for a new head just because your pistons kissed the valves..and more the likely only either the intake valves are bent or the intake..not all 20. if your near washington dc get back to me and ill gladly help out..w all the parts in hand this can be done in an afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the replies. I will be starting this as soon as I figure out if i'll be rebuilding my current head or finding a used one somewhere, I'll know once I price them all. Shadowlord, if you could send the info from Vida and Alldata that would be awesome, and thanks again. I'll check out the Tasca and Clearwater options and see what I can do. I'm in the Virginia Beach area so I'm about 3 or 4 hours from you soyo but I appreciate the offer. I'll let you all know what happens out of this misery.

Thanks again!
 

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It takes Time to Bench the Head and then - Professionally Install Valves - which lead to Valve grind and seating , Shims - Cam resetting etc. - vs -
A Cams locked in Place replacement Head to Drop On the Motor . ( Time is Money )

If the Valve Seats aren't Damaged and pcs. weren't Flying around in there - then slipping in 5 intake valves saves a lot .

Anyone have a Screen Shot Instructions on Valve - Keepers or Locks - Guides - Shims - what else would be needed . ( Anything ) :beer:
 
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