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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Even though it's been only two short years in our garage, our S&S package on the '13 C70 will mileage out before the holidays, I reckon(3/36 S&S on this one...too bad we didn't qualify for 4/50 or even 5/60:( ). We have a new battery from the 30K service and had the standard re-flash of systems at that time. Just wondering if there is anything 'known' to wear out/fail that S&S would address IF we should find it before the mileage deadline. Of course, we have the remainder of the warranty for those types of items; but S&S could be our friend on marginal issues...perhaps.

Anything brake or suspension related that we should look for? I'm reaching a bit here, I guess...just don't want to 'leave' S&S and regret not having checked for certain potential gremlins.

And while I've got you...What do we think of semi-synthetic oil changes every 5K miles vs full synthetic at the 10K intervals? My brain is having trouble going 10K miles between oil changes as the car gets a bit of age on it. On the other hand, I don't want to just waste $100 oil changes(Or even $50 with a coupon ;) ). Dang!
 

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Engine mounts. Brake rotors.

As an aside, I took wife's Miata to local independent shop for oil change. Saw 2010 C70 in lot. SA said it was towed there for woman who struck obstruction of some kind and ruptured/cracked oil pan and kept driving. Engine is complete loss. Insurance claim filed and insurer willing to buy car from her rather than approve repairs. It is sitting there waiting for negotiations to be complete.
 

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- lower control arms bushing worn out (loose steering)
- lower engine-transmission mount worn (less than smooth shifts)
- ac condenser issues (cold air cycles on/off)
- door handle/latches not opening consistently (worn latch)
- coolant reservoir leak
- worn/broken rear end link (clunking from rear)
- leaking oil filter housing (leak or whistling noise)
- ignition switch (car not starting consistently)

i'd to every 5k oil changes since the T5 is hard on oil...either dino or synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
- lower control arms bushing worn out (loose steering)
- lower engine-transmission mount worn (less than smooth shifts)
- ac condenser issues (cold air cycles on/off)
- door handle/latches not opening consistently (worn latch)
- coolant reservoir leak
- worn/broken rear end link (clunking from rear)
- leaking oil filter housing (leak or whistling noise)
- ignition switch (car not starting consistently)

i'd to every 5k oil changes since the T5 is hard on oil...either dino or synthetic.
Yikes! Only a couple of those were on my radar. Thanks for the heads up!

I seem to be 'between coupons' at this time. I reckon I'll have the dealer change the oil @ 35K miles on my dime(even though S&S 'covers' up to 36K miles) and have them give the C70 a good looking-over for any potential S&S covered issues. We got DW a FIAT 500L to pile the miles on; so, hopefully, we can cut down on the rapid accumulation of miles on the C70. Her coming out of 'retirement' has been a double-edged sword! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Engine mounts. Brake rotors.

As an aside, I took wife's Miata to local independent shop for oil change. Saw 2010 C70 in lot. SA said it was towed there for woman who struck obstruction of some kind and ruptured/cracked oil pan and kept driving. Engine is complete loss. Insurance claim filed and insurer willing to buy car from her rather than approve repairs. It is sitting there waiting for negotiations to be complete.
Wasn't aware of the engine mount concern. Will keep an eye out!

Our last two C70s had brake rotor replacements under warranty when UNDER 30k miles. I think our SA will work with us on those if he sees anything . I really don't want to pay for brakes...ever! Of all our Volvos since 2001, I've only paid to replace the rear brakes on the '10 XC60. It's just not a sexy way to spend hundreds of dollars on your vehicle !!! ...and has been part of the rationale for swapping cars so often! Can't do that with the C70 :(
 

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:) it's a good car but I bought mine used (2008) with about 30k miles on it and it had been pretty beat up with LA roads. i've dealt all of the above except coolant reservoir and ignition switch.

if you drive on smooth streets, you may not much in terms of suspension needs yet (i replaced the shocks around 30k too).

ac, door latches, and leaking pcv/oil filter housing were all covered under warranty.

probably could've had shocks and lca covered too but was planning to upgrade to FSDs.

lower engine-trans mount i replaced with the more durable/firmer ford e-focus mount and went with sports lca for c30 so hopefully i will get more than 30k miles, despite my own aggressive driving on LA roads, this go around with these parts. i'm close to 60k now...

oem rotors are pretty good. dealers will often upsell entire rotor/pad jobs but the warping/vibrations are usually from melted pad dust/material. if course i am lucky to have the larger 320mm front brakes - those with smaller may get more heat/warping. my honest independent shared the melted pad phenomeom with me and saved me every 30k rotors. akebono pads have much less dust both great for keeping rims clean and less episodes of vibration

Yikes! Only a couple of those were on my radar. Thanks for the heads up!
 

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Coach - get the top lubricated. Also, I'd get the brake discs (rotors) and pads replaced if you have any vibrations. My experience with my dealer is that they are very accommodating if you're at the end of safe&secure.

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Coach - get the top lubricated. Also, I'd get the brake discs (rotors) and pads replaced if you have any vibrations. My experience with my dealer is that they are very accommodating if you're at the end of safe&secure.

Best of luck.
Thanks for the tips...I've been imagining a slight vibration upon initial braking from moderate speed...not sure it's really there. I'll ask the SA about the top as well if I go for the 35K oil change in the next week or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My dealer measures pad thickness of brakes at each visit. Whatever is the yellow or red zone should trigger a response.
I don't think we ever got that far on the '08 or '11 before they replaced the rotors...vibration issues. I'm pretty sure I never got new pads on either; but traded both before they had over 35K miles. I'll wait til after Thanksgiving to get the oil change and look-around...let the holiday travelers get in and out. We're only driving about 75 miles x 2 for Thanksgiving ;)
 
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