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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stalling While Driving

It's been a while...but I still have my brick!<p>My 1992 245 173k has been stalling lately while driving, while cruising at 40-60 mph. It had the occasional 2-second stumble without stalling, once every 300 miles or so, nothing bad, but last weekend it started stalling every 20 miles. Checked the fuses, waited 15 minutes, started right up, drove like a charm, stalled 20 miles later, same thing. I was away from home, took it to the nearest Volvo dealership the next day who could not reproduce this. Gas tank was near empty. <p>Filled it up and drove it home 250 miles without a hitch. I did keep the tank above half full, though.<p>I have since replaced the fuel pump relay hoping it will fix things but I won't know for a few hundred miles, all the while "waiting" to break down again. Joined AAA as I have to take it out of state twice this month. Makes me nervous.<p>Questions:<p>Does this sound like fuel pump relay? Or could it still be the fuel pumps? I don't hear any noise from the pumps other than the whoosh when I turn the ignition key. Volvo guys had it hooked up to a fuel pressure gauge, drove it 25 miles, fuel pressure was fine then.<p>Interestingly, per (scarce) records, the car had same problem "stalling while driving" in 2001 and 2004. AMM was replaced TWICE in 2001, as well as the fuel pump relay. In 2004, both fuel pumps, relay and regulator were replaced.<p>Another thing, related or unrelated, it seems to idle a little hesitant, especially in Park. Plus, OBD says error code 2-3-2, running too lean or rich/O2 sensor. Actually, it's been saying that for a while. Now, I have no idea when and if the O2 was ever changed. It has the heated one they are supposed to last 100k but for all I know it may still be the original. Could a bad O2 cause stalling or stumbling?<p>Recent work to the car (past two months): flame trap cleaning, new exhaust header pipe, two oil leaks fixed (dipstick tube, valve cover), tune up (plugs, wire, dist cap, air filter).<p>Thanks for any suggestions!<br><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by dagnelson at 8:27 PM 5-4-2009</i>
 

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Re: Stalling While Driving (dagnelson)

Hi dagnelson,<p>I had a similar experience with stalling/power loss that turned out to be a fuel delivery system problem, but I also had a "buzzing/rattling" type noise that I have since learned is "characteristic" of a fuel pump problem.<p>Does your car make any noises?<p>To read about my recent issue and what was replaced, see this topic:<p>244: New Buzzing/Rattle-Type Noise-- Thoughts/Ideas?<br> <A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=117201" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=117201</A> <p>While your issue may be different, hopefully that will give you some ideas...<p>Hope you find a solution!<p>Take care,<br>volvie!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No noises other than my exhaust which has several holes and putt-putt-putts. There is a slight buzzing kind of hum from the fuel pump when I'm standing next to the car but I think that's normal.<p>But like with your car, my problems started on those first warm days of the year (80-90 F).
 

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Have you ever replaced the airbox thermostat?<br>yours is a typical hot running problem given the failure of this part.<p>Check also your intake bellows-sometimes they crack on the underside-out of view.<br>but if you've BBQ'ed 2 AMM's, The first place I'd look is that Airbox T-stat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The AMM was replaced in 2001 that was 70k ago. Not sure why it was replaced twice just 5 months apart, I didn't own the car then, but it's been fine since. <p>I don't work on my car myself much due to lack of tools and know-how. Is there a way to check the airbox thermostat or do you simply replace it?<p>Also, I am thinking of replacing the O2 sensor, as it seems to be the original one. Hoping it will help with the other symptoms (see above and add really bad exhaust smell - not fuel or rotten eggs, just exhaust smell - and poor gas mileage).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh, I don't even know where the airbox thermostat is (Bentley Manual on its way!) or if this is connected, but I no longer have the pre-heat hose, we took it off, to prevent AMM failure and because we really don't need here in the heat of the south.
 

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You mention that you had a near empty tank... Could your fuel guage be off???<p>I have a 78 242, and I can only get about 240miles around town, then it starts stalling and loosing power intermittently... <p>I mean, not to sound harsh or anything, but just check to make sure your fuel guage is working properly. if you checked your relays, and your pumps, then there really isn't anything else to check besides air/fuel flow in the intake, and the injectors, but if it is every three hundred miles then goes down to twenty miles, maybe you are running your tank dry.
 

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Re: (78brickonwheels242)

Could your in-tank fuel pump be dying/dead? I had similar symptoms with mine. It would run strong up to the moment there was not enough fuel in the tank for the main pump to push it to the engine.
 
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