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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had to do a rear wheel bearing on my V50 AWD. These are supposed to be "easy" because they "bolt in". But my V50 came from New England, so...

Let's cut the bolts off.


This is what was left of the T-45 Torx heads (or whatever they were supposed to be):



I was worried about the bearing being really stuck in the housing, especially as I have to remove it fairly straight due to my 4 cut off bolts. Luckily it started separating with only a moderate amount of persuasion.



Once it was off, just had to turn out the rest of the bolts. The bottom two needed a little heat. Nothing terrible.



Overall success, but I noticed my lower control arm needs replacement (both sides).



So I am on the lookout for an entire AWD rear subframe and lower control arms from a southern junkyard. The wheel bearing housings/trailing arms are kind pricey, so I may just sandblast those and reuse them. Anyway, thought some people might want to see the "alternate method" of wheel bearing removal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, the car itself is actually not bad at all. The rear subframe and control arms are terrible, though. Wish somebody would have oiled it.
 

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Thanks for the pictures!

This is one of my worst nightmares when it comes to working on cars... I am still new, but have heard some war stories like this.
 

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Good grief! Was that car sitting in salt water?
 

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This is amazing! I want to change my front and rear subframes out because of the rust that is showing. I could see the future and you showed it very clear in your pictures if I do nothing. I bought a front subframe it cost me U$100 and about U$100 to powder coat it. looks nice. The rears are hard to come by that are not from the rust belt and shipping is costly. So I ended up buying a whole car 2005 S40 T5 AWD M66 for U$600. It was from out west with little rust. I will have the rear subframe powder coated and I have painted the lower control arms with the hope of keeping the rust at bay. Never had this issue with the P2 subframes. glück with getting things back together.
 

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I recently changed one of my rear wheel bearings. Luckily the area wasn't quite as badly rusted, but I still needed to give a bit of heat to one of the four torx screws to get it off. In the end it was a pretty easy job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is amazing! I want to change my front and rear subframes out because of the rust that is showing. I could see the future and you showed it very clear in your pictures if I do nothing. I bought a front subframe it cost me U$100 and about U$100 to powder coat it. looks nice. The rears are hard to come by that are not from the rust belt and shipping is costly. So I ended up buying a whole car 2005 S40 T5 AWD M66 for U$600. It was from out west with little rust. I will have the rear subframe powder coated and I have painted the lower control arms with the hope of keeping the rust at bay. Never had this issue with the P2 subframes. glück with getting things back together.
I'd like to do the same. Make sure to post up pictures of your powdercoated subframe and such. Would love to see that stuff.

I do have an important question: Can I use an automatic rear subframe on my M66 car?

I've seen mentioned in several places, as well as junkyard cross-reference guides, that the rear subframes are different on Auto vs Manual. Is this true? Is the difference significant? Are we talking a couple exhaust hangers might need moved or is it something that can't be worked around, like differential position or some such thing? It makes no sense to me why they would need to be different.
 

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I just did my rear bearings on my 2005 S40 and had a somewhat similar experience. I was able to remove 7/8 bolts with lots of heat, ATF/acetone and a borrowed air impact wrench. I stripped the 8th torx bolt and was afraid to grind it as I've never done that before and was worried I wouldn't be able to turn the remaining stud. Had I seen your post I might've had the nerve to attempt that? As it was, I was able to remove the bolt with an Irwin Bolt-Grip bolt extractor. I learned that it's a wonderful tool for use on a stripped bolt head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah, I expected to have to beat on the bolt heads with a chisel, hammer a torx socket in there and GIT-R-DONE. But my bolt heads were *GONE*. There was nothing to turn. You couldn't even tell if they were supposed to be allen or torx or what. Interestingly, the replacements are E-Torx. More to grab onto when they get rusty, I guess.

In a lot of cases, what I did could have backfired horribly. Most "bolt-in" bearings have a very deep lip (like 3/4") on them that fits pretty tight into the bearing housing. So once the bolts are completely out, you are still beating the thing silly to get the bearing out (assuming rust). Leaving 4 "studs" there like I did would make it nearly impossible to hammer off of there because you have to come off exactly straight. Luckily on the P1, the lip is really shallow (like 1/4") and bolts aren't that tight of a fit either, so even with significant, *significant* rust, it came off with just a few dozen whacks of a 5lb sledge. Didn't have to go nuclear reactor with the heat on it to get it to move.

If anybody has info on whether I can use an automatic rear subframe, please let me know.
 

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That's wild - the rear subframes cost EXACTLY the same price and are separated by just 1 part number. I wonder if there's a strength difference only given how the M66 can put out excessive torque in 1st gear and the AUTO has a limiter in it - so no need for the rear strength to be the same and they can save money where possible. in thickness of the materials - the center plate would make the most sense as the suspension and everything deals with quite similar weights - but twisting of the powertrain is limited because of the lesser power output in 1st gear.

All the parts that attach to it for suspension are dictated by chassis # and AWD vs FWD, no where does anything mention Automatic vs Manual. Body panels aren't typically modified based on transmission as they're a one sized fits all design, same thing with the frames. So if I was a betting man, I'd go out there with measurements of the mount points for the different parts of the differential/AOC and some photos and look. I be they're similar or VERY close. If no difference - I'd bet there's a thickness or structure difference.
 

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Yeah, I expected to have to beat on the bolt heads with a chisel, hammer a torx socket in there and GIT-R-DONE. But my bolt heads were *GONE*. There was nothing to turn. You couldn't even tell if they were supposed to be allen or torx or what. Interestingly, the replacements are E-Torx. More to grab onto when they get rusty, I guess.

In a lot of cases, what I did could have backfired horribly. Most "bolt-in" bearings have a very deep lip (like 3/4") on them that fits pretty tight into the bearing housing. So once the bolts are completely out, you are still beating the thing silly to get the bearing out (assuming rust). Leaving 4 "studs" there like I did would make it nearly impossible to hammer off of there because you have to come off exactly straight. Luckily on the P1, the lip is really shallow (like 1/4") and bolts aren't that tight of a fit either, so even with significant, *significant* rust, it came off with just a few dozen whacks of a 5lb sledge. Didn't have to go nuclear reactor with the heat on it to get it to move.

If anybody has info on whether I can use an automatic rear subframe, please let me know.
I cannot remember as to why I think the auto and manual subframes are different but it seems like when I researched it a while back that somehow I would not be able to use auto on a manual. To answer your question, I truly do not know if you can use the auto on the M66 setup. With this being said, I have a 2006 AWD Auto rear subframe I was about to scrap to get out of my garage. I had to buy it with the control arm in it because they could get the control arm out due to bushing failure.

If you want it you can have it for next to nothing to check it out if it will work of a M66 set up. Since I have not removed my rear m66 subframe I have not done any comparison. All I would ask is make it worth my time. This means I do not want it to cost me anything. Looks like you might be off of the Great Lake of Erie. the part is in SEMI (South East Michigan) now. I could ship it or meet you a little ways. If interested let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I cannot remember as to why I think the auto and manual subframes are different but it seems like when I researched it a while back that somehow I would not be able to use auto on a manual. To answer your question, I truly do not know if you can use the auto on the M66 setup. With this being said, I have a 2006 AWD Auto rear subframe I was about to scrap to get out of my garage. I had to buy it with the control are in it because they could get the control arm out due to bushing failure.

If you want it you can have it for next to nothing to check it out if it will work of a M66 set up. Since I have not removed my rear m66 subframe I have not done any comparison. All I would ask is make it worth my time. This means I do not want it to cost me anything. Looks like you might be off of the Great Lake of Erie. the part is in SEMI (South East Michigan) now. I could ship it or meet you a little ways. If interested let me know.
Thank you! PM Sent.

All the parts that attach to it for suspension are dictated by chassis # and AWD vs FWD, no where does anything mention Automatic vs Manual. Body panels aren't typically modified based on transmission as they're a one sized fits all design, same thing with the frames. So if I was a betting man, I'd go out there with measurements of the mount points for the different parts of the differential/AOC and some photos and look. I be they're similar or VERY close. If no difference - I'd bet there's a thickness or structure difference.
I agree with this logic. The suspension and other parts are all the same, so the difference has to be minor. If I can work something out with J5T, I might just find out!
 

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Yeah, I expected to have to beat on the bolt heads with a chisel, hammer a torx socket in there and GIT-R-DONE. But my bolt heads were *GONE*. There was nothing to turn. You couldn't even tell if they were supposed to be allen or torx or what. Interestingly, the replacements are E-Torx. More to grab onto when they get rusty, I guess.

In a lot of cases, what I did could have backfired horribly. Most "bolt-in" bearings have a very deep lip (like 3/4") on them that fits pretty tight into the bearing housing. So once the bolts are completely out, you are still beating the thing silly to get the bearing out (assuming rust). Leaving 4 "studs" there like I did would make it nearly impossible to hammer off of there because you have to come off exactly straight. Luckily on the P1, the lip is really shallow (like 1/4") and bolts aren't that tight of a fit either, so even with significant, *significant* rust, it came off with just a few dozen whacks of a 5lb sledge. Didn't have to go nuclear reactor with the heat on it to get it to move.

If anybody has info on whether I can use an automatic rear subframe, please let me know.
walky_talky20 did you ever figure out if the subframe for the auto can be used for m66?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
walky_talky20 did you ever figure out if the subframe for the auto can be used for m66?
Not yet. I have decided to run my existing, crusty subframe for this winter, and do the swap once the weather breaks. Definitely going to happen, though. Again, I can't thank you enough for your generosity. I'll definitely be sharing my findings here.

Happy Holidays,
Walky T.
 

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Hey not a problem to help. I figured if you got the part cheap enough you would pass on some valuable knowledge on whether the subframe is interchangeable or can be modified or don’t waste your time. Some pics of my front subframe after it was powder coated. I going to wait like you for better weather to tackle the change.
 

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